HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Quick question.........will I have a difficult time finding the stock shiro white rims?
I'm planning on using them on my M30.
I've done a couple of searches recently and came up empty but people were just about giving them away a few years ago.
Missed the boat?
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If you're going to 5 lug, why not embrace the offset required?
The offset of the Z31 allows fitment of 5 lug wheels made for a huge variety of cars while a "rear drive offset" with deeper dish is getting rare these days.
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I really like the Z31 anniversery edition wheels the japanese market got.
Not mine but I will one day own a set of those wheels.
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Sounds like his cylinder head temp sensor is either failed or the connector is not making a good connection.
It's that injector looking connector near spark plug #5
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Actually.....you will have to search a bit nowadays to find 1,1,1 trichloroethane any more.
The red can of "brakleen" by CRC is still (I think) the trichloroethane formula.
Most brake cleaners have gone to a different formula.........which now burns like crazy unlike tricholorethane........which I used to use to put out fires when welding.
Another warning should be that many forumlations of brake cleaner since 1990 or so are very flammable.
Of course....I don't use argon but rather C02 for my shielding gas but the warning is duly noted.
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How close are those dimensionially to a L engine pan?
It looks a little bit like a first generation maxima l24e pan.
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It is most definately the shocks.
Shocks that don't damp will make for a horribly harsh ride while you can drive on hogged out bushings and worn ball joints and tie rod ends with very little effect on ride quality.
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I have 240hoke's adapter and it's so sweet I just display it with the box open showing the sweet hardware it came with.
I haven't been able to break my 3n71b yet so mine just sits but I will someday detail doing this to a pathfinder shorty tranny that already has the starter in the proper location.
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Make sure your body ground is good.
That can cause tach to peg but it's more likely an issue with the tach that other people here are better suited to answer.
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Get that ecu, airflow meter, and EFI harness as well.
Don't sweat the harness for the rest of the car but they do interact........but only ignition switch, a relay, fuel pump, and tach connection.
I had only 15 minutes to remove a harness from a car and had to cut it off in a couple of places and was able to make it into a standalone harness that I still keep around today.
Also.....get the coil and the other things bolted to the coil bracket.
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I drove my turbocharged L24E for 50,000 miles and it did the same thing.
Does your car have the N47 head?
Does your setup use the trigger straight from the pickup coil or does it pick up the signal from the ignition module or are you using something other than the distributor for crank reference?
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If you're running over 10psi with a stock L24E you might be running out of octane if you run 93.
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The Z31 runs 3.9 with the 5 speed from the factory and I never noticed too high a rpm on highway but it does have 215/60 tires which does change things a bit.
Many S130s ran 3.54 and I believe a few even ran the 3.36 but I could be mistaken.
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Isn't the RB20 tranny a FS5W71 tranny?
If so, you have dozens of choices for mechanical speedo drive and only a few if you want to use a sensor.
If the car you are putting it into originally had a nissan digital dash, you might need a short speedo cable that goes to a pulse unit that mounts in the engine compartment and sends the signal to the digital speedo head.
If your car has a nissan analog speedo of a certain year that uses a sensor, then you might need a sensor that screws to the speedo drive from a 1987-1989 300zx (analog dash car).
If your car uses the later style of sensor on the tranny, you have many choices of sensor and gear sizes from the 240sx and possibly the nissan trucks and pathfinders that came with a FS5W71 family tranny.
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Don't they already make a 16g or 20g with a t3 hot side which would bolt straight on?
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I don't mess with that until I actually drive the car.
You're also swapping that drivetrain over to a car that probably has different tire diameter than the car it came from.
I would drive the car, see how far it is off, and then start with the speedo drive swaps.
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Interesting..........might be a great deal.
Looks like the owner has other things going on that don't allow him to finish it.
Wheels put on quickly (directional tire wrong direction).
Regardless of quality of craftsmanship, someone put a lot of care and cash into that car.
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Those RX-4s have really small front brakes.
From the fact that he's waiting 2 seconds between shifts for the revs to come down enough to shift tells me that the car had not too much preparation and possibly stock tiny brakes.
RX-2 might have made that corner.
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What you don't see is that the car has two points that push up into two rubber grommets at the bottom portion of the airflow meter bracket.
This is the approximate configuration as installed in a the car.
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Moved the engine back 10mm so I could replace the dangerous 1970 240z metal fan with a fan clutch out of a 240sx connected to a 280zx plastic fan blades.
I first tried the clutch that I had out of a truck which is the same dimensions as the 240sx clutch but, as we all know, truck clutches transmit a lot more power to the fan which you reap as NOISE.
I had to place the fan blades on the "engine side" of the fan clutch and use two washers per bolt to space it such that the fan was flush with the radiator side of the clutch.
Centering was done by applying twisting pressure between the fan and the clutch to push the bolts against the holes.......which causes it to center itself.
Drive the car every day and it drives like it was built by nissan.......and it's unbelievably quiet which attracts zero cop attention.
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Then that is perfect.
The 3.0 liter 300zx turbo or 1988 and 1989 use a T25 from the factory.
With a t-28, you could probably bring it up close to 10 which is what I would limit myself to on the flattops.
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I use this.
Another benefit to this is when you stayed late at the dealership to work on your own car and forgot to get whatever fluids you needed before the parts department closed.
It will pull a quart of atf out of a deep tank in 10 minutes.
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Damn!!
That car earns "best skyline in america" by a longshot.
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This pic describes what I did once I found that both the warmup regulator and the idle air control valve were passing tons of air at all times.
The hose that goes front to back does nothing but make both iac and warmup regulator do absolutely nothing since those leaking bastards have no place from which to draw but each other.....and they are subject to the exact same intake vacuum.....so no flow occurs.
Sure plugs on the warmup regulator and iac valve would do the same thing but I had none at the time for this temporary solution.
The other hose does flow and it functions exactly like the stock one.
The reason for that cross shaped multi-nipple metal thingy is to give a filtered air source from which the devices will draw air.....nothing more.
Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Thanks dudes......good idea I hadn't explored.