HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Sounds to me like either his idle air control actuator is stuck or is auxiliary air regulator are stuck.
Another possibility is that strange sprung valve that goes between the intake manifold and the J tube.
In checking these things, you will also probably find that the rubber hoses on that "metal spider" multi-hosebarb are cracked and leaking.
I just pulled mine off and ran a hose (front back) between the auxiliary air regulator and the idle air control actutator as well as a hose from the intake valve mentioned above and the J tube.
Problems solved....but I have no idle control............don't really need it even with an automatic tranny.
I found both allowing air to pass.
Oh.....that idle screw mentioned above..........good luck with that.
I remove mine and replace them with one that is longer that has a hex head so I can have enough room to loosen the jamnut....and still adjust the idle stop screw.
Most likely, you won't be able to move that screw and I've gotten around that in the past by opening the throttle all the way and bending the tang that the srew rides against.
Care must be taken, though and it only takes a slight bit of bend to make a huge difference.
If you do adjust idle throttle opening, you should check if the idle switch on the tps is adjusted properly.
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Did the inspector's proceedure include revving it to 2000rpms for around 15 seconds before starting the test?
280zx turbos don't have a 02 sensor heater and extended idling can cause the cat and 02 sensor to cool off to the point that they don't do thier job.
I'm a virginia emissions inspector and have seen inspectors fail people because of bad proceedure or purposely tipping in and letting off while keeping the mph within the window.
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How long did the inspector have the car idling while waiting........or did he let it cool off for an appreciable amount of time?
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Congratulations, you have an exception in which your pickup ports for the valving is not at the extreme lower end of the shock.
Not every single shock made has it's ports in the same place relative to the fluid level.
In addition to the nissan factory service manual I pictured earler, here is subaru's version of purging a strut.
found in a subaru factory service manual.......
http://techinfo.subaru.com/downloads/STRUT_MOUNT.pdf?pdf=STRUT_MOUNT.pdf
I've read these exact same instructions contained within the boxes of factory shocks as well as popular aftermarket shocks and struts that I stocked in the mid-80s as well as in Nissan, Toyota, and Lexus factory service manuals.
I have no problem with your disagreeing with me but I'm having trouble believing that the factory service manuals for multiple car marques are incorrect.
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Someone showed his version at the supra forums but his actuator bracket seems to be too short for my liking and could transfer a bit too much heat to it.
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The damper is filled with oil and left with an air (or gas) void.
The valving intakes oil from the bottom of the shock.
If the shock is cycled upside down, the air void can be pumped into the valving and net you a shock that does not damp properly....until purged.
I purged the entire stock of koni, bilstein, boge, and controlle shocks we had in our warehouse at electrodyne in the mid 80s and have cut open enough "non serivicable, sealed" shocks as well as rebuilt OEM datsun shocks to know I am correct.
I also used the shock dyno as well as cut open a strut insert at VOB nissan to win this argument in 1994 and am 12 wins vs 0 losses in this argument since 1985.
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Compressing a shock upside down is fine.
Extending it upside down is not.
No strut/shock ever made is fully liquid filled.
There has to be an air (or gas filled) void within the shock to deal with expansion of the oil as it goes from 50 degree temps in the fall to near 200 on a bumpy section of road.
If there were no air void, then shocks would be blowing up from the thousands of PSI that a non-compressible liquid would exert as it's volume grew when temps came up.
Turn a brand new shock over, pump it upside down, and you will hear this "air" gurgling through the valving along with the effect of losing damping.
Now as far as 8641 series KONI shocks, they are low pressure gas meaning you should experience at least a weak amount of self extension after being compressed but it's nothing like a high pressure gas shock.
If you don't have oil leaking, gas pressure loss should have minimal effect on damping since the pressurized gas exerts very upward pressure and SRGUNZ has already stated they do self extend after being compressed.
What I've found with the 8641 series is that most owners use the adjustment knob to tighten them up the day they get them rather than use it to compensate for wear or adjust damping to balance a car since turning it fully tight nets you way too much damping.
This overzealousness by the original installer will wear a shock out pretty quickly so.....if you've determined that the adjustment of all shocks are even, then you should have damping close to the same.
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From my experiences, 300 degrees pan temperature is where you should expect things to start going south.
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I used to rebuild them at Z shop of miami.
They are pretty wierd inside but you will hate it when you see that the pistons are pitted and could cause leakage at certain pad thicknesses and then hate it more when you price a new piston.
The rebuild kits used to be cheap as hell but haven't bought one in years.
If the car is already off the road, unscrew the piston and try to not kill the seals.
I've done it a few times on my maxima but I had 4 from which to pick the best seal and piston.
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How can you really tell if one has a blown shock? I am running the older Koni 8641 gas adjustable shocks in my 240Z. On the rear it feels like one shock was bad and now I believe the other side has gone bad. I have pulled them. There are not leaking. They still have resistance when I push them down by hand and come back up on their own. Here's the deal. I turned the shock over and put the piston on the floor and pushed. There is virtually nothing there! No resistance. Does this sound right? Have any here noticed this on their shocks?
I run 225 lb springs so that is within the range of the shock I would think. I installed these in 1992 but they only have 12K miles on them.
When you pump a shock or strut insert upside down, you are trading fluid for air.
No shock will operate properly if the valving is full of air.
When I sold shocks at electrodyne in the mid 80s, I had people trying to return expensive bilstein, boge, koni...etc shocks because they didn't purge the air from the shock.
I would cycle them a few times, hear the gurgling, and hand them back a perfectly operating shock.
Remember that the top is sharp and anybody fooling around with a shock will naturally rather push on the smooth bottom than the sharp top.
Also....shocks are stored horizontally so purging is necessary as your car might not fully exercise the shock to the point or purging all air.
Here's the factory recommendation.
Now this is for a Z31 but shocks are the same.
Also....not all shocks require you to put it upside down for the compression of the routine......most important is to have it right side up while the shock extends.
Most can be purged by cycling them right side up.
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One possibility is that the adjustment is not letting the master retract all of the way.
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That name "cone killer" sounds like somebody who has been posting in forums since 1995 or so.
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It bolts to a larger bracket that is about a foot long that has 4 holes (square pattern) that attaches the bracket to the car.
It bends about 30 degrees near where it bolts to the car.
The airflow meter is bolted to that bracket as well and sits on the opposite side of the bracket placing it slightly lower than the air flow meter and toward the center of the car.
If you've done a non-turbo to turbo swap, your car will be missing the proper place for the that bracket to bolt but I believe it bolts either to the frame rail or low on the inner fender pretty close to it.
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Also remember that most (not all) manufacturers use a different set of wires for the scan tool interface than are used for communication between modules.
Also.....as mentioned above some manufacturers require a body control module to be there for the ecu to communicate with other modules since BCM's are deemed the master in many communication schemes.
In chryslers, they went from CCD communication that had all modules in a sort of peer to peer arrangement but they later went to PCI communication which had the BCM as the master and it was required to a certain extent.
Beating the anti-theft with the current products out there now usually requires you to have most, if not, all of the stock modules operating.
If you cannot do that, then a "calibration file" would have to be modified to convince the ecu that it doesn't have to wait for the anti-theft hardware to send a "yes you can start" signal.
It is much easier to fool the module that handles anti-theft into thinking it sees the proper key and let it send the "ok to fuel" signal to the ecu.
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Anything that pressurizes the crankcase can possibly influence the turbo to pass oil.
Blowby is one.
Driving hard is another since pcv valves don't scavenge the crankcase when under boost.
If you drive under boost more than the manufacturers expect when they designed the engine, you can end up with crankcase pressure.
I'm wondering if adding one that uses the venturi effect to scavenge crankcase used in addition to the stock setup could keep the pressure down even with hard driving.
Does your car have a crankcase vent that goes into the tube before the turbo inlet as in most stock setups?
If so, the oil could be coming from that tube while looking like the turbo is passing oil.
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I use a cutting torch to make a hole slightly small and then a die grinder to size and shape it.
Sure...you end up with super sharp splinters of metal all over your clothing but it can be done quickly with only three tools (vise or vise grips, torch, and die grinder)
Paying 15 to 25 bucks for one already made saves you the hassle of pulling metal splinters from your socks a month later.
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A perfectly straight 2.5 inch pipe won't diminish performance from that turbo but, once you add the bends required to fit a car, you end up with some restriction.
I'm sure somebody could spend a ton of time making a perfect bends to a 2.5 inch exhaust but a 3 inch would be much more tolerant to an awkward bend that might be dictated by the layout of the car itself.
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Try turning on the key for 2 minutes before trying to start the car.
If this allows the car to start on the first try on the first start of the day, then I would suspect the caps in the ecu to be going.
First, I would try wiggling the connectors on the ecu while cranking it.
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4th gear usually is straight through on most manuals and doesn't involve the countershaft so you get less drivetrain loss.
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That numeric keypad is an old 80s alarm that is either called a "clifford" or "ungo box" though it could be one of these.
That car really is a treasure trove of early 80s state of the art.
You will earn huge hero points of bringing it back to life.
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The 280zx turbo distributor (or crank sensor) makes 180 pulse peaks per crankshaft revolution and 3 120 degree pulses per crank revolution.
The non-turbo distributor makes only the 3 120 degree pulses per revolution.
If you got the engine only and plan to run it on the 1979 ecu and harness, you can do that by swapping the distributor and injectors over but you will run a bit lean at stock boost.
If you keep the turbo injectors on and run the 1979 engine management system, you will pull your hair out trying to get it to run lean enough to not foul the plugs anywhere except under boost.
The best solution is to run it on the stock 280zx turbo harness, distributor, airflow meter, and ecu.....if you have them.
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I take it he's posted his request on the RX-7 boards as well?
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Since the maxima diesel comes with a LD28 with a FS5W71B tranny, it should serve you fine but with the same troubles that the maxima diesel guys see.
The input shaft bearing gets beat up from the pulses of running them at low rpms.
L28 02 sensor reducer part? (please help!)
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
I'm sure you could buy a cat from a Z31 or 280zx turbo from a person parting the car out.
Most will still work if they aren't either burnt through or plugged.
They are a lot more robust than the current cats made by manufacturers....but then again, they aren't as effective.
Also.....if you take the car to a different inspector and whatever cat you have looks factory, who's to know that it isn't.