HowlerMonkey
-
Posts
1451 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
-
-
Temp sensor near spark plug 5.
-
He had a large air bubble in the system that does not allow warm water to get to the thermostat before part of the engine get hot enough to boil water.
Had he not drained it after the first time it happened and just waited for it to cool and refilled the car, it would not have happened again.......unless most or all of the coolant shot out of the car.
I expect this every time I fill a L engine cooling system and have worked a system that works 100% of the time.
I fill it, start it and let it run for a couple of minutes and completely ignore the stone cold reading on the gauge.
Then I turn it off and wait 10 minutes for conduction to get the entire engine (and the thermostat) the same temp. as the rest of the engine.
If it wasn't warm enough to open the thermostat such that I saw flow through the radiator......I would do it again.
If done right, you will come back out a few minutes later, start the car and suddenly see the level drop drastically in the radiator that you thought was full.
At that point....add coolant as it runs until full and check the gauge and for flow.
If you see no flow after a couple of minutes....turn it back off, wait a few minutes, and restart and watch for flow.
At this point you will see flow momentarily at startup since the entire engine is now warm enough to keep the thermostat open.....until the cool water comes in and closes it.
It sounds like a long and drawn out process but, since I have started doing this, I have never again suffered the sadness of wondering if I hurt a brand new engine I labored hours over to make perfect.
Conduction is your friend.
-
A maxima diesel is much cooler than the sum total of it's parts....especially if you plop a turbo on it.
-
Strange that nobody has mentioned what nissan did in the later L28s.
They used a dual port barb on the rear of the head with an extra nipple facing forward and add a T fitting into the middle of the long hose.
The only pic I could find shows they system but someone has bypassed the heater core.
It is a bypass that does the "looping" while allowing heater core to be part of the system.....but in parallel of the looping.
It is my guess that nissan wanted the "loopback" effect when the car was started cold so the temperature would stay consistent throughout the engine as it warmed up before the thermostat opened and then the thermostatic piece in the T fitting would stop the "looping"......at least until you turned on the heater.
Either way.....most every one i've seen was melted internally into a plastic blob.
-
If you're not running pcv to a vacuum source, a little filter on the valve cover could become fouled with oil and effectly clog causing high crankcase pressure.
It should go to a catch can sort of device that allows the oil vapor that ends up liquifying in the piping to pool in a low point and have the filter at the highest point so it doesn't receive liquid oil to the element.
-
From that video the car is lean.
Of course the car in the video could be dead cold but, if it is actually warmed up, I would get a resistor from radio shack that is the same resistence as the sensor would send on a fully warmed up car and then run it.
If it is still lean, bring up the speed until it starts breaking up and push open the flap on the airflow meter just slightly and see if it clears up.
If so, you might only need to loosen the spring....if you've played with it already......if not leave spring tension where it is.
Your mentioning the wiper being a bit off and fixing it.
It still could be off in the direction of lean in that only a very small amount of movment has a big effect on tip in mixture.
Also......the bypass port...........has that been fooled with or is the plug still in.
If not, you can actually see the screw through the slot just a little and can get an idea of how much authority you have with it.
-
In that video, you only have 5 cylinders running.
I would use a screwdriver to listen to the injectors and see if you can hear one that doesn't sound like it's firing.
It's also possible the spark plug in that cylinder has gas fouled and won't fire.
I would start it, turn it off after a few seconds of running at idle, and pull plugs.
If you find one that is wet, clean it off and swap it with another cylinder.
It's safer to pull injector connectors than spark plug wires while it is running to see which cylinder is not firing but not always the best test.
-
The maxima version of the 4n71b is not nearly as strong as the z31 300zx turbo version or the mistubishi or RX-7 versions.
I would only take the bellhousing and flexplate from the maxima versions.
Also....I'm not sure on the convertor dimensions from V-6 applications to L6 applications. Probably the same but you never know.
The turbo cars had a higher stall speed convertor which made the car more peppy and didn't impact highway mileage since you would be in lockup anyway.
-
The 1984 4n71b (L4n71b) are hydraulic lockup.
Anything that is E4n71b uses an electronic tranny controller.
The flexplate for the 4n71b is different than the flexplate for the 3n71b so, to fit most 4n71b to a L28, you would need a first generation maxima flexplate and bellhousing.
-
True....the replacement parts are expensive.
That might be why there are at least 6 locally in u-pull yards in west palm.
My car requries a front sump engine....Hmmm.....
Great work and I'm really surprised at the bore centers being where they are.
-
I ran a 1982 280zx ecu and airflow meter on my L24e when I turbocharged it.
It ran fine with the stock boost and I drove the car 50,000 miles that way as a daily driver.
-
This also begs the question of putting the entire mercedes engine into a nissan though that brings up other powertrain fitment issues.
-
The zx turbo ecu doesn't use the full throttle switch part.......only the idle switch.
If the distance between the bolt holes is 49mm, then it's off of a VG30 up to around 1989 though the late california Z31s had position sensor harness and switch like the later VG30s and stanza throttle body that used the jecs sensor..
If the distance is around 65mm, then it fits a 280zx turbo and possibly the 280zx n/a.
-
OK....I finally looked at the ebay ad.
It is for a TB45.....also fits TB42.
It's a custom manifold.
-
The reason for changing to the distributor was for nissan's heading toward the sequential injection direction with little baby steps.
The distributor in the 280zx proved the technology, the Z31 took it a step further by using a wider slot in the 120 degree wheel to tell the ecu which was cylinder 1, and eventually the 1990 M30 took the system to sequential for nissan single cam six cylinder engines though it's possible another single cam six got sequential before the M30 did outside of the united states.
The furthest the engine management for nissan single cam engines has been taken is in the pathfinders/frontiers/quest ecus that add a true crank angle sensor that counts the 120 flywheel teeth but this signal is only for diagnostics and misfire data and not the general running of the car.
There is no doubt the 1981 crank angle sensor is more exact but you won't be able to run a Z31 or later system that expects cylinder 1 to have a longer pulse.
The sensor is actually 3 sensors in the same package.
One has a discrete 120 degree signal and the other two sensors are on the same signal line but the pickup poles are mechanically spaced 1/2 a tooth off from each other which nets you 180 pulses per crankshaft revolution from a 90 tooth pulley.
Knowing this, you could conceivably build a 1981 style CAS with three discreet sensors on a single bracket if you get the spacing correct.
Part number on mine is 23731-V0801
Engine fits in a F31 chassis fine and the engine bay looks identical to R31 except for it being left hand drive.
-
Cam timing should not throw off his timing light findings on the front pulley.
I would use a straw or wooden chopstick stuck into the spark plug hole in #1 and determine tdc that way...then look at the pulley and see if the marks are close.
-
It actually uses a RE4R01 tranny but I swapped the vg30 for a L28et with built 3n71b.
3n71b came with mazda RX-2 through RX-7 and then 4n71b took over.
I'm looking to build a bulletproof 4n71b from a RX-7, 300zx turbo or Starion (whichever has the 4 planet gearsets and more frictions) so I can run 4.10 and still get good mileage in overdrive with lockup.
-
"aftermarket".....meaning "non-oem".
Since I have a bunch of 3n and 4n71b shifters and have used them on a variety of nissan cars, what I have found is that you will probably have to have a few different levers (tranny end) since every one of my shifters has a different lever length (from pivot point down to hole).
Some tranny end levers also have a different offset cut into them which changes the orientation.
On my M30 with 3n71b, I went through a bunch of levers from various jatco transmissions to match the throw on my stock M30 shifter and it's still off slightly.
I my case, I either have to extend the tranny side lever or drill a hole further up my shifter end lever.
-
As mentioned above.
There is gunk betweent the throttle plate and the body causing it to stick.
The side benefit to cleaning the throttle body is your idle air control system doesn't have to add as much air.
-
Oil from the pump supplies the filter from the hole in front of the center hole.
You can see the bump in the block from the galley that goes from front cover that goes straight toward the hole.........if you have the adapter off.
This is why the bypass valve sits in the outer periphery.
-
Are you able to run the engine down to 750rpms to check timing and also have the throttle switch on the tps in the on position?
If you're higher than that or the switch is off, you won't be able to set base timing.
Now I'm pretty sure the pcm only advances timing if the switch is off or the rpms are too high so, if you cannot get 15 degrees with the screws in the middle (or close) then you are one tooth off.
Are you sure the balancer rubber hasn't slipped causing the timing mark to show tdc when it is not actually there?
-
3n71b is normal forward valve body....unless you buy a performance valve body from a performance tranny supplier.
Most aftermarket shifters are cable operated.
-
AVgas is also formulated for a low piston speed.
May people only look at the octane number which is only a very small part of the equation.
If you want good high octane gas that will give best power, try VP racing fuel's SR1.
It makes more power on cars with below 10 to 1 compression ratio N/A than most any other fuel that tests as legal........at least at this time.....might change soon.
-
Most of the crazy octane requirements in normally aspirated aero engines are there because the engines run lower rpm ranges which makes them more susceptible to knock.
Also.....the mixture is in the hands of the pilot and a higher octane will resist detonation better than a lower octane fuel when someone manages the mixture badly and runs it too lean with high map at low rpms.
That is why you commonly see avgas with ratings such as 100/130 in that the first number is the octane when run very lean and the second is the octane when run rich.
AVgas is also more consistent in it's vapor pressure with regard to density altitude changes.
All of this goes toward ensuring engines are harder to blow up which keeps airplanes from dropping out of the sky.
ld 28 for stroker
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
That engine looks like it has been sitting out in the elements for 9 years uncovered.