HowlerMonkey

Good table with good vice and a hammer.

LOL at some weasels making up a new term for something that's been practiced ever since internal combustion vehicles showed up. A RD28Ti in a S130 would be sweet.

I'll measure the infiniti m30 axles I have since they are exactly the same length and share the inner side hardware. The flange on the stub axle side is larger diameter so you need it is well.........if they prove to be thicker/stronger....they may not.

Check the with guys who do this all the time. http://www.improvedtouring.com/ Make sure to set your preferences for more than 30 days or you won't see jack.

Since a very similar tranny came on the pathfinder 2wd models, I would assume the clutch application to work with that tranny as well.

Is this a symptom or the problem..........have they been separated? If not, check the ground between the negative battery terminal and the body. (it's right there next to the battery) Most likely an alternator but you might want to see if a lifted ground is causing your symptoms or whether it has caused the alternator to charge it's little heart out and killed itself.

This stuff is also available at harbor freight. One early trade name was Alladin Rod and I've used this to repair anything from a beer can to aluminum boat props. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44810

Then you've got that pesky egr valve.

Water inlet is those two hose barbs on the ends while water outlet is the exhaust outlet itself.

L24e should be the same sump. Just make sure your turbo has the separate elbow from the wastegate housing (280zx turbo style) so you can fabricate a downpipe that will clear the steering shaft.

If the car has ever been jumped with the battery backwards, your injector drivers will be fused to ground which leaves the injectors on all the time.

Get tires that have good wet weather performance.

Just don't tell him "the tornado" is nothing more than a restrictor and he will soon install it becaue of market hype.

Marine exhaust manifolds possibly?

I rebuild plenty of high mileage turbos and the only coking of the bearing I see happens in the brief time between the turbo drain becomes clogged and the turbo removed for repair during which time a volume of oil is trapped in the turbo which ensures the oil will sludge/coke/ash....etc because it has no place to go. It's very hard for a turbo to pass oil unless there is pressure in the return line whether from excessive blow by or from a clogged or restricted return. 90% of the ones I have seen have chunks of carbon/coke accumulate at the 90% angle on the oil return tube where it meets the pan with the turbo above being pretty clean. You can be creative in your water routing to take advantage of convection which is how early cars cooled the entire engine. I did this on a maxima in which I rebuilt a very high mileage Z31 turbocharger that had a crack spreading from the wastegate hole 1/3 the way around the housing with nothing more than replacing the bearings (re-used seals) and it's running fine 40,000 miles later. I don't sit in the car but instead turn it off and leave right away.

I have 40,000 miles on a MN47 head with the turbo stuff bolted up.

Only if the cooling passages were changed to deal with the lesser amount of heat needed to be taken out if the liners indeed do insulate enough that nissan felt the need to change said passages.

This car uses a flap door air flow meter.

My question is why? Most turbo damage from lack of thought is done when the car is cold. Most oil passing is the result of a clogged return line.

Almost exact same systems the SCCA GT racers use in their datsun 510s but possibly with more flow rate.

Remove drivers kick panel and lean down to wiggle the harness and connectors on the ecu while driving. (dangerous if you can't see) You will most likely find it affects your car but wiggling it can also temporarily break connection such that the resulting open loop operation helps cover up the problem.

It's not the pressure but the warmer air fooling the intake air temp sensor to skew things leaner..........since it was designed to report the temperature of the air just as it enters the intake tract and not after being compressed.

I tried the same thing and eventually put in the injectors and air flow meter from the turbo but that brought up having to come up with proper diameter piping and routing scheme. I never did put a turbo on the car before I discovered how bad the rust was progressing which made me mad since I had swapped in a R200 and 3n71b turbo version tranny as well as both front and rear crossmembers and rack and this and that..........harsh. It did pick up a tenth in the quarter mile most likely from the higher stall speed convertor.

In miami a while back when they temporarily brought back emissions inspections to get rid of all the 1974 buick LeSabres and other dinosaurs out of the system. Two weeks later there were street vendors selling alcohol just up the street from the testing stations. Then........as quickly as the emissions inspection was foisted on us........it went away along with the most of the dinosaurs.

Man.........how loose would the spring in the air flow meter have to be to run that? Never mind..............already been there. Easiest is to get the turbo injectors and fix the connectors that plug into the ecu.......and check for a cracked ecu board......and check for a capacitor that has leaked corrosive and conductive substance onto the traces of the board. Quick question.........does the harness going to the throttle position sensor have 2 or 3 wires?