HowlerMonkey

It's not the pressure but the warmer air fooling the intake air temp sensor to skew things leaner..........since it was designed to report the temperature of the air just as it enters the intake tract and not after being compressed.

I tried the same thing and eventually put in the injectors and air flow meter from the turbo but that brought up having to come up with proper diameter piping and routing scheme. I never did put a turbo on the car before I discovered how bad the rust was progressing which made me mad since I had swapped in a R200 and 3n71b turbo version tranny as well as both front and rear crossmembers and rack and this and that..........harsh. It did pick up a tenth in the quarter mile most likely from the higher stall speed convertor.

In miami a while back when they temporarily brought back emissions inspections to get rid of all the 1974 buick LeSabres and other dinosaurs out of the system. Two weeks later there were street vendors selling alcohol just up the street from the testing stations. Then........as quickly as the emissions inspection was foisted on us........it went away along with the most of the dinosaurs.

Man.........how loose would the spring in the air flow meter have to be to run that? Never mind..............already been there. Easiest is to get the turbo injectors and fix the connectors that plug into the ecu.......and check for a cracked ecu board......and check for a capacitor that has leaked corrosive and conductive substance onto the traces of the board. Quick question.........does the harness going to the throttle position sensor have 2 or 3 wires?

http://www.fram.com/pdf/FramDisclaimer.pdf I know it's harsh but it's there in writing and the fact that they don't offer a filter for that application in the high performance catalog means it's best to buy another brand.

Who's doing the testing is just as important as the car. I've seen tons of cars failed because the inspector was a chump. If you get some guy who sets the car aside and lets it idle for 45 minutes, then it will most likely fail. If you live in a state in which they run your car on a dyno, an inspector who doesn't have smooth throttle technique when responding to the speeds requested by the test proceedure can easily cause the car to fail. Former Virginia Emissions inspector.

The flange for the 280zx turbo R200 has a wider bolt spacing than the flanges found on 200sx turbo R200s and normally aspirated R200 280zx cars. I changed the 3.90 R200 out in my first generation maxima for a 3.54 out of a 280zx turbo and had to swap the flange. Though the maxima didn't come with R200, it bolts right in if you use a 200sx turbo differential mount.

How about fitting a first generation maxima crossmember with power steering rack?

With a bypass in place, the filter would not have collapsed and sent the particles that caused the restriction that caused the collapse into the engine. While it is possible, I have been using that exact filter and fram filters on my nissans for over 20 years and never seen a failed fram filter since I started in 1979.

Is the L24e in ok shape in the car now? I bought a 1984 maxima for 300.00 and just bolted the 280zx turbo stuff to it as well as fitting 4 lug wheels from the 1984/84 300zx non-turbo. I didn't remove the engine or the pan. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=850581&postcount=4 It's been my daily driver (30,000 since turbo) for 2 years.

The filter bypass would have kept the filter from falling apart when the particles from the failed bearing replacement clogged the filter causing a huge overpressure.........unless he had the filter bypass in the car......which is designed for this exact purpose.

A few things. The 1987 300zx turbo comes with clutch type LSD and only after a specific manufacturing date. The FS5R30 tranny that comes in the later turbos is far and away superior to the T-5 in most every single way as well as being able to handle twice the Horsepower the T-5 can. So........if you really want to install this tranny, you will also need a different bellhousing (read case) for it since the V-6 does not share the same bolt pattern as the L-6.

I usually go with stainless on anything after the intercooler that may exist in the engine compartment (read: anywhere behind radiator).

Quick question......... Is the oil filter bypass on the car or filter adapter still there? That exact type of damage is the reason for the bypass' existence. Some people remove a stock oil cooler and don't remember to replace the plug that sits where the bypass normally sits with a bypass. Non-cooled cars come with it in the block and cooled cars come with it in the cooler adapter.

Many gas stations have percentages of 10% or more alcohol and the fuel is still considered "gas". A lot of fuel lines are shedding the inside diameter of the hoses into the rest of the fuel system.

Cool...........I guess I'll be posting only on threads in which I have to time to read and dissect every single post. I'll leave that up to the people with enough time to research for the sake of discussion.

His post detailing that he wants to lean out showed up after my post. That was the first mention of leaning since everybody else was talking about enrichment schemes. I build nissan ecus and air flow meters for a living and have special testers for them and might be able to see how far you can skew readings from sensors before the ecu no longer does a mild adjustment but instead decides your car is cold and reverts to cold operation. Sadly.......I am way understaffed and most of my free time is in 2 minute snippets so all I can do is post from my experiences and off the top of my head because I have no time for research. Maybe this weekend I can give the definitive answer on a number of ecus for nissan Z cars.

Was your hood open at the meet while the car was unattended?

There should be no oil pressure in the turbo........unless the return line is blocked..........which is what usually happens to kill in this case.

Just watch out for the porous castings found on some early bmw V12s. I replaced a few shortblocks because of this in the 90s at Eurasian auto service in tysons corner, virginia.

I used to sell that kit at electrodyne in the 80s. I might be one made by FOHA (australia I think) but it is possible that our kit was made by xenon.

Is there a baseline video with no spoilers?

The fork to pivot bolt friction is a factor here. Check the fork an pivot for galling and lube.

Careful when adjusting toe on the IS300 or the crossmember suffers.

Don't adjust jack ♥♥♥♥. Check for the positive at the injectors when cranking. If you have no positive, then the ecu bringing the ground won't do anything. Many times when injectors are replaced, people will also replace the connectors..........with the key in the on position. Any touching of the positive feed wires to the engine will blow the fuse link or a fuse. Also......pull a plug to see if it's wet. If one has a bad connection to the head temp sensor, the car will go unbelievably rich to the point that you might not get it started and end up with wet plugs. If they're platinum, they are less resistent to flooding than standard plugs.