HowlerMonkey

Just make sure you don't run a restrictive muffler.

Remember that the vg30 has a crossover pipe and the stock intake manifold actually sit over part of the tranny bellhousing. This means you will probably have to move the tranny back for any straight six swap.

LOL........this is a terminology argument that does not need to occur. When I was a marine mechanic for hatteras yachts, we had both intercoolers and after coolers.

A lot of toyotas come with them and I replaced them every time I did a clutch as most won't last two clutches worth of usage. If you look closely at the nissan bushing parts bag, it says "oil impregnated bearing" meaning that any wear will cause the oil that is impregnated within the bushing to lubricate whatever "liberated" it. I've never had a factory bushing fail but once did see one that was visibly worn after 280,000 miles of usage.

I've got a L28et in a M30.

I never knew why guys would shut off the alternator on a run when you can just make sure the battery is fully charged before the run. If battery is fully charged, you won't be using hp to keep it that way. This allows your ignition coil to start with 13.8. to 14.1 volts rather than 12.6 volts it would see with no alternator. That 1.2 volts can mean a lot to people with certain configurations.

I don't like notching the cylinders because this can focus pressure directly onto the top of the ringland rather than have the piston in the way to take said pressure.

Strange...........I worked on aviation and marine engines and intercooler meant cooling between stages of supercharging. The engine itself is not considered a stage and I never heard it mentioned as such on many of the aero engines I helped restore for the smithsonian that featured two stages of supercharging.

Many years ago we experimented with a car to use for track days (car guys back in the 80s) and we boxed an a/c evaporator and pushed boost through it. You have to be careful of the design you use as some will sound like 50 kids blowing through grass blades when you push high velocity air through them and others are weak enough that the fins flop over and stop most airflow. Ours only energized the compressor when the brake pedal was pressed. Since this happens much of the time on a road course, we also gained engine braking............but...........compressors don't like to be suddenly accelerated to 6500 or more rpms so it was just an experiment that would be good for a single race (maybe) but you would be hard pressed to find any sanctioning body or tech. who would pass off your car as "ok for the track".

Cool............you can actually be one of the few people with a true "intercooler".

I'm running a stock L24 with the turbo stuff bolted on from a 280zx turbo engine. Running stock non-turbo injectors, stock boost level and have been for 45,000 miles on an engine that now has 270,000 miles. I saw you on another thread asking about gasket choice but I couldn't find if the valves of the p90 hit the bores of the l24 and the only talk I see of it concerns unshrouding. I only want to know if the valves of a p90 hit the bore.

So........will P90 valves hit the bores of a virgin l24 block?

If I'm not mistaken, that car does under 10 seconds in the quarter mile.

They are the same color as the 280zx injectors.

If this is a maximum effort ITS nissan engine, you will certainly be taking a bit off the head to bring the chambers down to as small as allowed by the rules or you will end up a moving chicane for all the sunbelt, B.C. Gerolomy, and Rebello drivers. Knowing that, you will most likely be using head saver shims anyway so machining the face that meets the rocker pivots and cam towers shouldn't hurt if it turns out you have warpage of the entire head. Talk the guys here since you will be racing them and meeting them anyway. http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/index.php Make sure to check your options such that you can view posts that are older than 30 days old or you won't find what you are looking for.

That will be sweet with a CA18DET. Congratulations on doing something uncommon. I also like that it's not another SR20DET conversion......getting bored of that.

The shifter can be located there but to do so in your implementation would require the shorter shift shaft that terminated within the area covered by the black cover.

Those automatics are pretty damn stout and come with a good enough convertor to build a bit of boost on the line. Don't throw it away until you're sure you won't miss it.

Any of these larger seats thicker/deeper? I have a head that got wet in a hurricane and it looks like I have a seat that got corrosion between it and the head.

Pathfinder fs5r30 shifter is 27 inches from bellhousing. The shifter goes into the plate on them but I've seen some pretty well shortened shifters for the z32 tranny done here that should be fine.

OK.....I finally spend some time looking at it and understand it now. all I have to say is LOL

Until I see a video of it running and not sounding like it is eating itself to death like all the other miracle engines, I won't be believing it.

Harsh but at least you didn't get two broken ribs like my buddy did. He was driving his brother's 1970 charger R/T 440 and heard the same noise followed by his seeing the reflections of a lug nut in his rear view mirror. The wheel departed the car at 45mph on a highway so he pulled over and saw the tire approaching in his rear view mirror and got out. He put his foot out and the tire hit him so hard it crawled up his leg, hyperextened his knee like a Frank Shamrock kneebar and broke two rips before bloodying his nose.

You would be amazed what works for a turbo drain. Here is an old post I did on a ghetto turbo drain system that is still working 50,000 hard driven miles later...... I posted it at least a year ago if not longer so the mileage has gone up since then. Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine. I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump. So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics. It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough. You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two. Then you use a grinder to take off the lip which will allow you to remove the screen and have a sweet surface in which to mate to the side of the oil pan. Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan. Now you use the smallest drill you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car. Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time. Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install. Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant. I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver). And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws. Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage. Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves. Feel free to post it anywhere but it's name is "HowlerMonkey flange".

I used to haunt the orlando junkyards and the one near the speedway even back when those women owned it and inventory turned over once every 10 years. It is far better now. I'll try to keep this thread in mind as I scour both yards in west palm on benoist farms road at least once a week and they have great turnover of cars but sometimes too fast as you will show up one weekend, see what you want, and then find the entire row has been replaced two days later. I'm not sure how sharp they are here in west palm as I left an uncracked Z31 turbo exhaust manifold on top of the plenum of the car and it then thought better and it was still there two days later.