HowlerMonkey

Those would look cool with the late mid to late 60s cougar taillight blinker hardware.

I looks like mazda RX-2 taillights would bolt straight into that rear fascia.

To be truly cool, the FS5R30 needs a longshifter out of a pathfinder.

You're missing the heat shield that shields the master cylinder from the turbo heat. Is your master cylinder level sensor plugged in?

I engineer engine management systems for a living and my experience in engine management systems design tells me this idea is not ready for prime time. Believe me, I know the failure rates for sensors and what engine management systems do when fed the wrong information from said sensors. Also...........the inertia of the valves and pistons moving in opposite directions at a pretty good rate is enough to bend the valves if they contact. They don't need a cam behind them to bend. Formula one is not a good example as they suffer failures directly related to the valve actuation mechanism more than any other failure in recent years.

I run a turbo on the MN47 head but it is part of the stock L24e setup. Running stock boost it does well and has been for 30k miles. Damn the port shape........I have no leaks.

"Currently.........I know of no engine that will be mechanically ruined by a bad sensor input." As an engineer for standard motor products ECU division, I can personally vouch for the fact that the most common sensor malfunction pertains to sensors that measure crank and cam angle..............regardless of manufacturer. Any unusual waveform from a failing sensor can easily net you piston meeting valve in the setup being discussed here.

Funny how that stock 944 throttle cam has become desirable again. I remember getting the linear one from Al Collins of autothority in 1986. Fitting the 944 cam was the first thing I though of when I saw the thread title but it seems someone else beat me to it.

A single bad waveform from a sensor and the engine is done.

On the turbo automatics, there is a blocking plug on the block within the diameter of the oil filter sealing surface for a relief valve. In all others, there is a bypass valve in the same place to keep pressure at the filter below what would explode from either overly thick oil in low temps or a clogged oil filter. In the turbo automatics, the bypass valve is in the housing that feeds the cooler lines. I've run without the cooler and bypass for years on my cars but you must make sure you change the oil filter before it is clogged or the pressure rises in the filter. I prefer my oil filtered all the time rather than have it bypass and not get filtered.

He'll definately need the shorter distance between shifter and where bellhousing meets engine in the z car much like you would probably have an easier time with the pathfinder FS5R30 tranny than using one out of a Z32.

I hate suggesting the sr20det because everybody has one in their S13 and S14s but it sounds like the best idea for your application. Now if you were from australia, you would have a huge selection of nissan turbo 4s.

I have yet to see an offshore racer work well with turbos for longer than a single race. Ask reggie fountain (fountain powerboats), he pioneered using turbos in research boat/engine combinations for mercury marine but all his race boats ended up using superchargers though that may have changed. I love turbos and every car I drive (except my terminator wagon) are turbocharged but there is an unbelievable amount of danger in using turbos since most every offshore racer has headers that have water jackets..........for good reason. These headers for a big block chevy go for about $2,600 to $3,000 each. When I was a service manager at an offshore type boat dealership selling fountains, I asked Reggie and he said safety is number 1 on anything that bears his name..........now that doesn't keep others from doing it but I'll bet current regulations in any offshore racing sanctioning body still say "no" to turbos. Imagine the expense in shrouding your entire exhaust system and the hot side of the turbocharger with water jacketing and you will see that losses start to crop up right away.

Tire stagger combined with a tight diff. Swap the rear tires with each other and see if it turns the other direction.........and sight down the rears and see if one is way off relative to the other to check for rear toe problems.

That depends on what year 280zx. Many pre 1981 ZX cars had a steering box type power steering though I believe some 1979 slicktops with roll up windows had a manual rack. If your car is 1981 or newer, you probably have the rack rather than a box that sits right where you would put the turbo.

Doh!!......wrong engine family.

Toyota corollas use what looks like an exhaust header for the intake.

I've seen something similar and it was from a slight bit of water ingestion. It was also on number six like most L28 hydrolock victims.

N47 maxima head is another as is the P99 which is identical to the P90a.

Most new cars won't energize the relay that gives positive to the injectors, tranny relays, fuel pump relay, ignition coils, and misc. engine solenoids such as vacuum switching valves until the car sees a good crank angle sensor signal. Toyota calls it a circuit opening relay and chrysler calls it the ASD relay. I'll guess the aftermarket manufacturers will soon embrace this though I don't know if any have.

I've pulled a ton of L28 pistons that look like that including a 280zx that never experienced boost. I've never seen this in an engine in florida (though it could happen) but have seen many in cold climates like virginia in the winter. What I find knocks the skirts off on L28s is high revs at low temps. On my car that lost all six, it ran fine, had no blow-by and only made slight knocks when cold. I only found it when going in to fit new rod bearings in prep, for a turbo. If you have a thermostat stick open or don't run one in sub freezing climates, you can run the car down the highway as many miles you want, pull over at a rest stop, and feel the side of the engine is unbelievably cold for an engine you just ran hard.

I had a 280zx turbo I bought in the winter that had a thermostat stuck open while on the highway. I saw the gauge go down to the bottom and assumed it had an open in the sensor much like some oil pressure sensors do. I would come up a bit but not nearly where it should have been while idling. It was running a bit strange and I got on it pretty hard not knowing the gauge was, indeed correct and found one side of every piston skirt snapped off and in the pan while the other sides were fine on all six after going in to replace rod bearings because there was very slight lower end noise. I guess a 100k mile engine that was probably ice cold has a lot of piston slap.

Sorry John C. I just checked with my Improved touring buds and Bisone's 240 put down 220 and not 240 to the crank around the time it lapped the field at the blue grey classic at summit point in the early 90s.

A few guys here have done it but I'll bet the crazie aussies have a good site on it as well. http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/index.php

Mechanically very similar but very different engine management system scheme from the factory. One thing to know when potentially buying either is to check the cylinder deck and head surface for erosion as I've seen a ton of them with deep enough gouges on the mating surfaces sometimes making both almost worthless. I've watched a couple of techs get fired when they discovered the gouges after handing in the estimate and getting the green light because they went for the JB weld...............which works only about 25% of the time.