HowlerMonkey

Charade is 1 liter and similar to but not the same as the chevy sprint and isuzu 3 cylinder turbo cars.

sweet and elegant solution. I would carry a spare serpentine belt tensioner pulley, though.

It's the oil drain that usually causes problems since you can't get oil to the turbo if it won't drain. Stock setups have a 90 degree angle before the barb on the pan and this is where coked oil likes to hang out which eventually clogs it. I had one with 200k miles and the original owner claimed it was getting noisy. I cleaned up the drain and checked the supply line, kept good oil in the car and made sure never to open the throttle much until the turbo had reached operating temperature. It was still working at 300k miles when I gave the 84 slicktop to datsun dynamics. I shoved bearings into and cleaned one that had lots of shaft play, put it on my 1984 maxima, and used the same driving technique when cold and it's still going strong 30k miles later.

Here's one that's sweet.

LOL.......my answer implies to keep the L24e and turbocharge it. Drilling the block to front sump a L28 is a lot more labor intensive than making the pick-up marginally longer and re-routing it. You also must drill a new dipstick tube and, since the oil gallery goes through nearby, I recommend not drilling the fake small boss found on L28 F54 blocks because it is far too easy to hit the oil galley. Far better to drill elsewhere.

I'll try to fix this post since pics were moved. Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine. I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump. So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics. It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough. You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two. A bench grinder around the periphery makes that pesky screen disappear with the quickness. Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan. Now you use the shortest drill you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car. Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time. Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install. Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant. I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver). And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws. Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage. Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves. Feel free to post it anywhere but it's name is "HowlerMonkey flange".

That custom manifold is sweet. Has anybody tried the LD28 manifold as a starting point?

Yep......as bernardd mentioned. A 3n71b from a 280zx turbo in good condition with the exact same mods I did to my drag RX-2s in the early 80s can handle big hp and 9100rpm upshifts.........behind a rotary.

Are you relocating the starter from stock Z32 location and using the z32 bellhousing on the ones in the pic. I ask this because the Z31 and pathfinder implementation have the starter in front of the bellhousing in the same location as in the pictures above rather than bolted to the side of the bellhousing like the Z32. I really should provide pics but I won't be able to do that until tomorrow at best.

Stainless has terrible heat transfer which makes it great for any intercooler piping that is subject to engine bay temps. No need for it on any tubing in that sits in front of the radiator.......just behind it.