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jaime240z

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Posts posted by jaime240z

    Help! Car won't start..???? Part ID please...?

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    OK, OK. Here's my progress. I opened up the steering cover ( the black plastic pieces areound the steering) to have EZ access to the lock cylinder and harness. I tied in a jumper to the blk/ylw wire on the ignition switch harness. I tried to start the car and...nothing! :?

    I left the key in the ON position and the touched the jumper to a 12v source on the fuse block and VROOOOM :wink: It started right up!

    Now it seems to almost always start on the forst try. Even without the jumper wire..... :?: So I'm not sure if the lock is tweeked or the connector on the harness...? I thought about buying a cool push button starter. I think that might do the trick. It's alot cheaper than the $100+ lock cylinder. I remember seeing a pic on Tim240z's website of a sweet button starter mounted in a Z dash. I'm going to do some research and follow through with this. Thanks guys for the help and info. I was starting to get frustrated but I see the light now. Luckily the Z is not my main source of trans. 8)

    Help! Car won't start..???? Part ID please...?

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Ding, ding, ding. I think I've figured it out and Spirit mentioned it days ago. I ested the acc relay and everything seemed to work OK. I tested the leads with the key in different positions. Seem good. I traced out all the wiring from the battery to the starter and to the ignition switch. The ignition switch on the back of the keylock cylinder is new so I figured that was doing its job. Then I tester the leads on the harness behind the ignition switch. It had the constant power ( wht/red, if I remember correctly) and the acc leads got power with the key in the acc position. The only lead not getting power was the one going to the starter with the key in the start postion. POS! I was pissed I had wasted so much time trying to figure this out and I was happy I had found out ( maybe) what was wrong. So now my focus is on the ignition lock. Not the small module that the harness plugs into, but the actual key lock cylinder. The only other test I could think of was to "tap" the lock cylinder with a hammer to see if that would "fix" the problem. And holy carp IT STARTED. It started right up on the first try like my car was saying FINALLY you dumb-ass. Anyways, I let the car warm up at idle. sounded good except for a header leak. :( I then shut the motor and waited a minute...tried to start it again and NOTHING! I tried tapping the lock cylinder again but this time I wasn't so lucky. Well I'm 95% sure it's the ignition lock.

     

    Now, has anyone else experienced a similar problem...? Did replacing the ignition lock do the trick? I looked up prices in the MSA and VB cats and this piece is around $100. I know used ones are less but in this case I want a new part. However I don't want to fork over the money unless I'm positive that's the problem.

     

    Can anyone out there help with this.....please.....

    What diff is best or easiest?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I did an R-200 swap last year on my 72 240 and I must say it was pretty straight forward. All I got was the diff. and mustache bar. I already had the poly bushings from the master kit which I recommend doing while the stuff is out. You need to turn the front diff mount 180 degrees to work. I'm not sure what year your car is so keep in mind this was on a '72.

    Remote Starter Install Finished!

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Yeah I propped thwire up to see if it would work with the stock eng and 5 speed but it didn't work too well in the winter. The manual choke on my 72 doesn't help the cause at all. Oh well, at least that feature is there if I ever go EFI. 8)

    That reminds me, I still need to instal the door lock actuators! Forrest, does your Z have power door locks? If not you can get the actuators for $5 each and wire them to a relay. Your alarm should have a plug tto send the open/close signal to a solenoid ( dei part #451M ) I haven't got a chance to look in the door to see where I will mount the actuator though...just a thought... :idea:

    Help! Car won't start..???? Part ID please...?

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Well I know this is going to be a big surprise. I searched 4 local part pullers in the area and...no Z cars! Which means no replacement relay..which means dead Z :cry:

     

    Spotfitz. I think I will trace out the wiring tomorrow and see if I missed anything the first time around. I'm skeptical though beacuse the car was running when I parked it 3 months ago. this has been a little problem that got worse with time and now it's finally broken all the way. That's why I'm thinking it's going to be a switch or relay, as opposed to connections. But who know...? nno really, who knows? Anyone..? :?:

     

    Oh well I didn't get out the the garage today because it was like200 deg. out there. Matbe tomorrow will be a little more productive. I really miss my Z. Even though my truck has A/c and the Z doesn't. A weekend cruise in the primred beast would be worth a little sweat though...

    What do you thnk of these headlights

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Yes REAL HID costs Big $$$. but I don't think it's nearly impossible to do on an early Z especially considering the kind of swaps that are talked about on this website.

    True, the auction mentioned on this thread does NOT supply a true HID conversion. But for the price, that kit would be a decent upgrage from the old halogen lights originally on our cars. I did a similar H4 ( hella ) swap on my 240 and it made a big difference in visibilty at night. You should definitley upgrade the wiring harness though. I noticed my headlight switch got VERY HOT ( near the steering column ) before I upgraded the wiring with the H4 conv.

    I know Pete's website has good info on this method. I know because I pretty much copied what he did and it made the H4s even brighter. If you're unsure about wiring I've got an APC wiring upgrade kit from Jeg's brand new in the package that I would be willing to get rid of. It's specially designed for this appliaction to be used with an H4 conv. I never used it because I ended up using Pete's method, but it is perfect for someone who doesn't want to get too involved with wiring, etc. The relays are already wired in with the kit. It's as close to plug and play as you can get with this.

     

    Also, I noticed the kit on ebay has TINTED blue bulbs. Sometime people think these bulbs look like HID with that pure blueish/purpleish light emitted from high end luxury cars. Well the "tinted" bulbs won't look quite the same as a true HID kit. So if cops in your area are looking out for anything illegal on your car, ( and in Cal. they usually are ) your blue headlights will stck out like a sore thumb at night.

     

    As for true HID kits. I've noticed alot of these kits on ebay as well and many of them seem poorly designed. Beware of these if you're looking to buy. I would stick with brand names only ie HELLA or Philips. Alot of these kits use universla bulbs with glued on adapters so they "fit" your car. These usually suck because they change the way the bulb is positioned in the housing, thus giving off the wrong beam pattern, thus not giving you the full amount of light reflection from your lamps. This could mean dim HIDs or very bright ones, blinding oncoming traffic ( and cops).

     

    And yes I am planning on doing HIDs on my 240 someday. I'll be sure to documant and post!

    Help! Car won't start..???? Part ID please...?

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Carl, that problem you had sounds too familiar. I gat all those same new parts too with similar results. I found that relay in my chilton's manual. It's labeled as the accessory relay located near the pass kick panel (inside). It has four wires on it blu/red wht/red red/blu & blk. I don't know if the acc. relay is the actual problem. It's the only thing I hear clicking when I try to start the car though. Oh yeah, I also replaced the ignition switch thinking that was it. IT WASN"T :(

     

    Alternator and voltage regulator were replaced recently too. Oh yeah my car is a '72 240Z with a 5 speed.

     

    I did learn somthing new though: On the fuse box, with the key in th ON position, when all the other circuits show 12.5 volts, the IGNITION curcuit only shows around 6 volts ( the circuit on the left column, middle fuse ) I'm not sure what's causing this but that's probably a good clue.....

     

    Any electrical gurus out there got any ideas about this :?:

     

    I'm going to try to scrounge up some acc relays from parts yards ( hopefully ) and see what happens.

    Help! Car won't start..???? Part ID please...?

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Yup, I did that. Actually I bought new batt. cables with the battery and cleaned the connections at that time too. I also double checked the cables/connections/ and grounds today but that didn't change anything.

    One thing did happen though. It happened a couple of hours after checking that stuff so I don't think the cables etc was the problem.

     

    The engine tried to turn over once. But it was brief and it didn't last the whole time I had the key in the start position...And it never did it again all. night. Battery is holding 12v. cables and connections seem to be good. As far as I know the starter solenoid is good. Checked the fusible links just for kicks...and nothing...?

     

    Does anyone know more about this acc relay? I have a hunch that's what it might be. I wasn't able to find one in the MSA or VB catalogs so I'm going to try to find a used one . Or maybe I'll call Nissan tomorrow. I'd hate to spend big $$ on a rare part and not need it though..

    Help! Car won't start..???? Part ID please...?

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    OK I think I figured out what part that is. Accesory relay is what I'm thinking. However I still have the problem. 13v and no start. Only clicking from the acc relay. I don't remember it doing that before I parked it, but then again there was engine noise involved back then so who knows?

     

    BTW. Before I parked it I had the starter and soleniod tested at 2 different parts stores and they both said the parts were good. I was having a similar problem at the time that I now think is related to this. However when I had the parts tested I learned that I needed a new battery, which is where the Optima comes into play. The new battery seemed to fix the problem 6 months ago but the problem has popped up again and this time I'm stumped.

     

    :?:

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