letitsnow

Well, I don't think it'll hurt. Put it together and see what it does!

I've always made the 2nd ring gap larger, and I've never seen any ill effects, and all my stuff seems to make power as good or better than expected. On my L6, my pistons(and consequently my bore) were .003 over a standard size, meaning my end gaps were .009 larger. I still put it together because I was in a hurry, leakdown was about 5% higher than I'd like for a new engine, but it wasn't a fresh bore, so that may have made a difference too. It still ran great and is one of the higher dynoing stock turbos that I've seen on here. My little story is to demonstrate my opinion that as long as the gaps aren't absurd, in either direction, that it doesn't make that much difference. If you're racing in a very restrictive class like IT, that goes out the window, chase power anywhere you can find it.

It was running up to 18psi in the midrange with a linear taper down to ~10psi by redline. If you look at my torque curve, that's almost exactly what the MAP trace looked like, just offset about 500-700rpm to the right.

I went 12.6, after that dyno I posted above, on nearly corded street tires, If I hooked up the 2 step and bolted some drag radials on, I'm pretty confident I could have gone ~12.0-12.3. I wasn't having traction issues, but the launch on that run was almost .1 off my best that night(1.79 vs 1.87), but it was my best shifting. I was launching at 5k or so with no boost and slipping the clutch just slightly. If I hadn't found a deal on my HY35, I probably would have picked up a T3/T4 with a 50 trim compressor wheel, a stage 3 turbine, and a .48 turbine housing. I think that setup would be able to make ~400ish rwhp with killer response and torque.

This is interesting, I've never owned a transmission that shifted as well as my 71B. I shift at a lower RPM(~6000), but, it will shift as fast as I can pull the lever and not grind. This is an unknown mileage box with a loud input bearing. My datalogs show I can do a full shift(throttle release to throttle application) in .100-.150 seconds. I'm using this stuff, straight. I'd say it's worth a shot, for science! Edit: looks like you tried this already, interesting. I actually sped my shifting up a bit from this later that night and dropped another .3 off my ET.

A stock T3 will make 270rwhp.

I fit 2.25" in mine, should be fine up to 400ish hp.

Check it for leaks first, you want it as loose as possible without leaking.

Good luck, it's not something I'd be comfortable with.

Go with the nissan gasket, not taking it apart again is worth the $20.

Go with the nissan gasket, not taking it apart again is worth the $20.

1.8-1.9 hot 700rpm idle, AFR 13.0-13.5.

Just remembered I built a solidworks sketch model back in my mini-baja days that let me model and measure a SLA suspension, might have to look into building one for a strut. Care to share some pickup point locations?

Shenanigans, My injectors flow 830cc/min, idle PW is a little low, but entirely manageable. Driving 2 hours on the highway to an autocross, had 2 drivers and let the car idle for the whole rungroup between runs, and driving 2 hours home resulted in ~24mpg.

Stock now allows changing front or rear bars. For the last 5 or 6 local autox events I drove a friends H stock EF civic dx sedan(79whp of fury ) with koni yellows and a 24mm rear sway bar, stock front, on star specs or occasionally a set of super dead v710's. Front shocks full soft, rears full hard, rear bar full hard. We managed a bunch of top 10 PAX finishes, he took top PAX once, and I took 5th a couple times. As for your outer tire wear, I wonder if the softer sidewall(relatively speaking) of the RS3 makes it want more camber, some google searching results in lots of people saying they are wearing the outer edge on all types of cars. Might be interesting to see how a stiffer sidewall reacts, there's a bunch of new street tires coming out next year, so it might be a decent excuse to try one.

I have 225/50r16's and the 3.54 was good, the 3.70 is better, but all the local courses are very tight, both took right foot discipline, the 3.70lsd was considerably better in this regard though. I used most of the speed available, and I would have been on the limiter a lot if I had some camber and hoosiers, on the street tires I would hit the limiter occasionally and be in the 5500rpm range pretty often(6k limit). The turbo felt like it responded a little better with the 3.70, likely because it was always at a little higher rpm. Really it's going to depend on the course designs and how fast you can exit the corners.

That instant torque is gonna be fun. Is it from a 3.8SC?

1st is really a non issue for me, except at the drag strip. Mine weighs 2700lbs with me in it and 1/4 tank of gas. I can take off in 2nd, but it's universally slower in my car. I don't make 1000hp, so in order to get off the line effectively I need to use 1st.

1st does go by quick, but it's absolutely necessary when trying to go fast, driving normally, I'd shift mid-end of an intersection. In the rain, rolling burnouts from 40-60mph were pretty common in 2nd. I had a 3" exhaust with a 2.5" downpipe, at 2800 it would make full boost(15-18psi or so) and do it pretty quickly.

I've been fine with 2 silicone 90's and a solid pipe of a similar config, the 90's have a lot of give to them.

340ft/lbs, that much torque was plenty to roast tires from corner to corner autocrossing, run mid-12's on street tires, and in general be a TON of fun. That turbo was not happy with me though, it's dead now, but I don't think it was in great shape when I put that down. It had a sound that was almost blower-ish, so I actually think there was a little more in it if it was in good shape to begin with. Boost started falling off at more like 4k, pretty much right after it hit 18lbs, and the torque curve followed it exactly. There was another member that was putting down better drag strip numbers than me with a stock ecu/rrfpr or something similar on the stock turbo, but I don't know about the details of the rest of the car.

My car has never been quite that quick to get on boost, but the turbo has never sounded good and it just went out with enough shaft play to hit the housing. For me it was 2300-2400 in 5th would make 10psi, but it would take FOREVER. 4th would accelerate out of that rpm range before it hit the wastegate. It still made more than enough grunt to be fun, but now I'm hopeful that the HY35 I'm using to replace the cooked stocker will actually feel similar to my apparently slow spooling t3. I have a 3.70 diff and noticed very little change from the 3.54, 4th was plenty to go through the 1/4, something like 122mph is the theoretical top of 4th for me. I trapped 108, 1st gear would just barely spin on the street with the LSD in the dry, it certainly wasn't useless.

I'm on street tires, with slicks I could probably knock off another .5 without any more power.

Yep, the pivot points are what's important, the tie rod could have a loop in it and act the same way if the pivots are in the same place.

Wow! What's the car weigh? Maybe I have some left in mine, my best so far is 8.1 at 87. Can you actually hold 15psi to redline?