letitsnow

How would it have had any compression when you tested it if it was stuck open?

I don't mean to restate state the obvious, but you're sure the firing order is right and on the cap in the CCW direction? If it's on in the CW direction, it'll run on 1 and 6, ask me how I know! You're sure the injector clips are making good contact? Check with a test light? Swap the injectors around? I'd also say the cam swap isn't necessarily the issue now.

Which magnaflow? I have a pair or their oval case(looks like a regular muffler) on my 5.3L rx7, it's a very nice combination of sound but not too loud. If you have the round case muffler, you might consider switching to an oval.

I've got one of the cheap assemblies(~25 shipped), I haven't run one, but I figured post turbo and post WBO2 if it leaked a tiny bit or needed a little high temp sealant I wouldn't be too offended. The slip style band clamp I have leaks a tiny amount already, not enough to hear, but enough to make a little soot around the clamp. The flanges are flat and machined decently. The clamp looks alright, but I haven't torqued it down on anything. The ad said it was stainless, but it has some very minor rust spots/discoloration after taking the oil off and letting it sit around my house for 6 months. I'd guess it's a 400 series SS, kinda stainless, but will rust somewhat, not like mild steel though. This one doesn't have the locating lip, so you need to slide 1 pipe 1/8"-1/4" past the flange and the other pipe back into the flange so it will still bolt together. This makes it harder to leak and easier to assemble.

The bearings feel good, I've had them apart several times recently, right now I'm leaning towards some runout in the hub on the passenger side, I'm going to measure it tomorrow. I may be able to get away with shimming the rotor a few thou to get it straight. If it is out, and I don't want to shim it, will a hub from my '71 240z parts car work?

I don't think my friend with the brake lathe has those adapters and the other local places want like $70 to turn them. If it was FWD he could do it on the car. I think I'm going to have to go at it with a dial indicator and measure as much as I can.

The most I'd pay for it would be somewhere between $30 and $50, and $50 would be pushing it. I'm just going to echo the guys above, call isky and explain your build and goals.

arduino + http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/ + http://www.adafruit.com/products/163

If you're on the stock turbo, don't worry about it. I have a stock n42 intake on my l28et, last night I went 12.6 at 108mph in the 1/4 with it, the rest is a very mild build IC, exhaust, megasquirt, fuel system.

I would bet it is off a tooth if you ran out of adjustment.

I did a 1.7 60'......on street tires.

I got them turned tonight, it turns out it was very uneven wear. Back on the car, they still have a very minor shutter, I wonder if something isn't quite as parallel or perpendicular as it should be?

It's been a while, but I got the paper and tried it a while ago. It maybe kinda helped so I let it go, well, they've started pulsing worse and worse, today I tried sanding them again. First garnet, then aluminum oxide. I made no discernible difference. Started out with .006 runout, ended with .006 runout. Looks like I can warp a rotor. Edit: drivers rotor is still straight, passenger rotor is now warped .006 vs the .004 I posted earlier. I had these: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=391334 Considering these: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/280Z/Brembo/Brake_Disc/1977/Base/6_Cyl_2-dot-8L/W0133-1624756.html?loc=Front%2C+Driver+Or+Passenger+Side http://www.lpiracing.com/Nissan-Power-Slot-Brake-Rotor-Front-126-42004SR-37p168597.htm

Most diff/tranny places won't be able to correct machining flaws if you get a bad one.

Cool, I've considered setting my arduino up as an SD datalogger.

I just bought one with 80k on it, in just about perfect shape for $630 shipped from another forum. If you're going to pay 1k for a diff, consider an aftermarket unit, but then you have to install it or have it installed.

Do a compression/leakdown before you pull the head. Check the dumb stuff, firing order, did you accidentally put the cam in 180 out, etc?

I thought it was the differential switch under the master cylinder.

Question about the brake light on the dash. Mine comes on under heavy braking, but not light, normal, braking. More accurately it turns on when I release the pedal after a hard stop. It's my understanding that it comes on when there is a pressure difference between the front and rear circuits. Is this behavior normal?

Install it in the feed, the return should be at atmospheric pressure.

Do you have the fuel lines on the fuel rail correctly?

Just for clarity, from the rule book:

15 years is pretty damn impressive! Life has been a big concern of mine with things like these. Are they SM legal though?

The website says they're NLA for now.