letitsnow

I just measured front toe, comes out to about .125" out per side. I used parallel strings and a ruler graduated in 1/32, I wouldn't bet huge money on this setup, but I'd bet it's pretty close.

Here is some video from another recent autocross I mentioned earlier, the one with the BMW club on a very very loose surface. This is not how it normally goes on pavement, well sometimes it is. Not sure how much if any it helps. I also bled and adjusted the rear brakes today, I don't think they've been doing anything this whole season.

I believe the s13 diffs that were originally open are the ones that fit our cars, that's what I've gathered at least.

The rest of the car looks like crap, I've been slowly fixing rust and painting with a urethane primer to seal it. The next event is in 3 weeks, then there are a bunch close together with neighboring regions and the BMW club. I am doing it for fun, but If my name was at the top of the list I'd be having a lot more fun. It's pretty easy to stay in SSM, it's up there pretty high. I could take things off and drop down classes, but what fun is that? In the rx7 I was hitting the rev limiter in 2nd a bit, so about ~60ish, in the Z I've hit the limiter once or twice at 65-67(not in that video), but there was a little tire spin, so probably 60ish actual speed. The lot in the videos with the rx7 is a local college, we used to have an army depot airstrip, but lost that this year, that was a great site. The site with the Z video is the paddock at watkins glen. The only time spinning is dangerous at our sites is when it's right at the finish and you run over the timing light wire mid spin. No idea who could have done that though... That site had a ditch to the other side, so I'm just glad it didn't end up going that direction Here are some pics on course, just for the hell of it. http://www.michaelbushphotography.com/Cars/Autocross/FLR-Event-4/i-9m9B82S/1/M/IMG4671-M.jpg http://www.michaelbushphotography.com/Cars/Autocross/FLR-Event-4/i-XWMTNXf/1/M/IMG4847-M.jpg turned in way late on this one http://www.michaelbushphotography.com/Cars/Autocross/FLR-Event-3-at-RIT/i-ffT3ZDk/2/M/IMG2390-M.jpg and my prime competition in SM, supercharged, coilovers, sticky street tires, somewhat stripped. He is in SMF and has an easier pax to begin with too. http://www.michaelbushphotography.com/Cars/Autocross/FLR-Event-3-at-RIT/i-bs5JtrF/2/M/IMG1278-M.jpg

My region sticks the guys on slicks in a Pro class, Prepared class, or Mod class. everything else is a road tire class.

My co driver was about 1.5-2 sec quicker until my last run where I cut his lead down to .4s. My dad only went to the first few events, and he drove a ES class FC rx7, I beat him, badly. There's no rubber left in the rear suspension, all poly. SSM has a pretty harsh PAX, which may have me looking for more than I should be this early on, from car and driver.

I know that the compound makes a world of difference, but I want to stay away from a dedicated race tire for now, until I learn a bit more. I shouldn't need them right now, I've been repeatedly RAW'd by a stock class '90 honda civic with a good set of street tires and shocks, I don't even want to talk about PAX. I'm planning on a stickier street tire for the next set. Slicks(*<140 treadwear in my region) puts me in pro as well. Here are all the runs from that day. I co-drove that event with a very very fast local guy, his instruction helped a ton and I got to see the course more. Just for reference in the video, I'm Bob and he is Chris, the runs are labeled with who drove. Maybe I shouldn't have said that the car scares me, but I think I've looped it at every event this year, except that bmwcca event. The last event I did turned out to be closer to rallycross than autocross, it was an old lot that had mostly disintegrated into gravel. It did scare me there. I think the parts I find difficult about this car are placing it on line(heavy slow steering, while hanging on for dear life), and the occasional lift throttle spin/slide scaring me for the next 2 or 3 runs. I've autox'd a z31 a few times, that car was very forgiving at the limit, but it had no power, a fair amount more tire, and power steering. I thought about the lift throttle oversteer John mentioned a little, the s30 rear doesn't have any toe change with compression/extension, does it? Is that why when you lift and weight transfers off the rear it gets twitchy?

I'd say that's an adequate description of what it does. I think I'm going to focus on becoming a faster driver for now and see about adjustable suspension pieces next year.

LSD is 'in' the car, but it's not connected to anything because I didn't have the M14 nuts for the mustache bar to rear cover. I'll finish that up sometime this week. The LSD has drained just about the whole car fund. I do notice that the pedal is very quick, is there an 'easy' way to change the ratio? Cheap rear toe adjustment, is it a bad idea to use cam bushings? They look like they'd bind things up. I guess I could look and see how much a pair of rod ends are and add them to the stock arms.

and one of the Z(I had excellent instruction for this event because I was co-driving with the guy that generally wins our Pro class). What sounds like understeer, but doesn't look like it is spinning one of the rears.

I do have the stock seats, I've considered a kirkey just for autox. I listed spring rates bot forgot to say coilovers, the ride height is measured to be the same on all 4. I set the ride height to where the outer pivot of the control arms are about .5" lower than the inner pivot. I do think the lack of power steering really doesn't help, but the rx7 lacks PS as well, but the steering on the Z feels so much heavier, especially on course. I don't seem to have issues with stabbing the gas at the wrong time, the engine isn't terribly responsive and it takes about .3-.4s to get to full boost, longer at lower rpms, which is where it's been on the last couple courses. The power really hasn't been much issue, just trying to get on the gas early enough to use it has generally led to spinning the inside rear, then a rolling burnout from corner to corner. The only adjustable alignment settings are front toe and ride height at the moment, aside from slotting things, which I don't really like the idea of. Just for the heck of it, here are a few runs in my dad's rx7 from yesterday(which is a nearly stock 87 + an LS1)

The only thing I didn't say was L28ET, the suspension and known alignment settings(none, LOL) are listed. Is there anything specific you'd like to know? here's a dyno sheet, just for good measure. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f12/letitshow/Dat-SON.jpg Based on times from today, I'm pretty sure the rx7 is slower(roughly 3sec/60sec course), but still far easier to drive than the Z. I think a better set of tires, like a set of rs3's or star specs, would bring my times down into the competitive range, I'm just curious about making the car a little less leery.

Let me start out with this, I'm pretty new to autocrossing and I still drive this car almost every day. I've driven a few events in other cars over the past few years and this is the first year that I've run nearly the whole season. I'm in the process of putting an LSD in and didn't finish for today's event so I borrowed my dad's LS1 FC RX7, after that, I'm positive that the Z is much tougher to drive fast than any other car I've ever driven. I co-drove with one of the fastest guys in the region and he agrees that it's very tough. I've kind of developed a reputation for spinning, I'm afraid of getting near the limit because once it starts to spin I have to be super quick to catch it or I exit the corner backwards. It doesn't seem all that unbalanced but once it starts to go it's hard to catch. My car is setup as follows: Bilstein struts in sectioned housings 200/225 f/r springs stock bars 225/50r16 kumho ecsta spt's on all 4(not very sticky) poly bushings everywhere except the T/C rod, they're rubber. I don't know where the toe is and I haven't corner weighted it, rear arms are stock and the rear alignment is wherever it ended up. I'm hoping the LSD will make the car easier to control and get upset less by boost coming on when the car isn't pointed perfectly straight, maybe make it easier to catch. Edit:I guess by difficult to drive I mean difficult to place on the line I want to take.

Tried this on one of my L28 turbo manifolds, like 3 times, and the stud is still in there. Every time the weld, or part of the stud would just shear off.

There's always something like this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLM-5335825-4/ They're CHEAP and I don't think they look terrible.

There's nothing magical about the 'A' cam, it's just bigger, all the n/a cams are bigger. I've got the 'A' cam in my engine, it pulls nicely to 6k.

Wait, does the 240sx tps bolt onto the zxt throttle body? That would make my life so much simpler, I thought you had to swap the 240sx tb on and modify linkage.

Looks like 4.5"

We ran my t3 up to an 18psi peak on the dyno, it wouldn't hold more than 10-12lbs to redline, with every boost increase we picked up torque, power didn't really increase because pressure always dropped back to 10-12psi pretty quickly after peak torque. The power curve ended up as an almost flat line at 270hp from 4000-6000, which leads me to believe that's pretty close to the max this compressor has to give.

I haven't really put much effort into a solution, I think MSD offers a 'tach adapter' which is kind of what we're looking for.

If you're talking about right next to the valves in the chamber, it looks like machining marks to me.

An 8" wheel(0 offset) will fit with stock suspension and stock fenders, I could probably go to a 9" with my coilovers, but things would get tight and offset would get very important.

I haven't had an issue, I used steel nuts(std, not locking in any way). I'm afraid of them breaking the studs now due to corrosion, they've been on for 3 years and I've had the manifold and turbo glowing more times than I can count, but no track days. Safety wire won't work on nuts, and it's also not designed to hold torque, that's up to the fastener and torque specs. Your options are fairly limited to deformed thread nuts. Maybe get some SS ones.

I know I started this thread regarding picking out an LSD, but now that I bought a z31 diff, I have a few questions about adding clutches and shimming. I don't have the diff in hand yet, and I'll probably put it in as is for now and add clutches/shim over the winter. From what I read in the FAQ, when adding clutches we add them outside of the 2 plates, my question is on the outside wear surfaces of the clutches we add. One of the 'new' wear surfaces is the spring plate, and the other is the center piece. Are there any issues with the clutch wearing on the spring, such as uneven wear or spring wear? What about on the center piece, could the clutch wear that out?(I'm assuming that the center turns with the plates)

Do you have a real big IC? You also have a bigger(more efficient) turbo IIRC. From previous logs, the t3 at ~10psi is putting out 200-240* temps pre intercooler, mine at 17-19(falls off hard after peak tq) is probably over 300. All IC's will do this to an extent, but if you can shed heat as fast as you put it in(huge IC and efficient turbo/lower boost/meth), the IC temp won't change. Heat in vs heat out is the key thing here.