letitsnow

Is it actually reasonable that increasing the roll stiffness can add grip by reducing camber loss? That is, assuming a somewhat softly sprung car to begin with.

Stock shocks, assuming they're still good, are going to ride like crap and fail soon. At bare minimum go with tokico blues or similar, but sectioning and a good damper are good things. What is the intended use and ride height of the car?

Check this thread out, it's about RX7's, but applicable to you too. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=10256.0

Why not brace the end of the MC to the strut tower or similar?

I'm happy with my VW Bilsteins, but if I did it again, I'd consider some more research on the 3000gt Bilsteins.

I've been adjusting before autocrosses, but I don't feel like I have enough rear bias. I'm going to get rid of the porterfield pads in the front and go back to a normal compound to try for more rear bias.

Those of you that say the stock brakes have good bias, are you using an adjustable proportioning valve or the stock one?

If you want cornering grip make sure you go with a ~200tw tire, going from 300 down to 200 will net a TON of grip, 1-2 seconds on a 60sec course in an autocross.

Go check out an injector sizing calculator and see how much power the ~180(?) cc injectors will support.

I think I'm going to go back to a 'normal' pad compound(from porterfield r4s) in the front to try and get some more bias in the rear until I can budget in a rear disk swap.

That is high up on my list of things to check, I replaced the calipers not long ago, but that doesn't mean one isn't sticky.

I have a bit of toe wear, but no crazy unexplained tire wear problems. I'm not doing much heavy repeated braking, just street and autocross, no track days/HDPE. I think there were hard spots in these rotors after I turned them and that's why they still shake. I think the runout wasn't great when I put them on and that's why they wore funny in the first place. Tie rods are in decent shape, don't feel loose, inners also feel alright. Everytime I've asked someone about brake shudder, they link me to that stoptech article. I believe they are correct, but I'd say that it's only true on a well setup system, I think I have another issue somewhere, could be the hub has some runout, could be a wobbly bearing, could be rotor runout, could be a sticky piston. I think I'm going to buy another set of rotors(I'll try the $20/pop centrics this time), and set them up with my dial indicator and some .001 shims and get them as straight as possible(going to shoot for *<.001"). I'll rebuild the calipers and replace the bearings too. The pads are about 50% gone, but I should probably replace them too.

I've never changed the bearings, so it's possible the previous owner messed it up, I should be able to tear it down next week. Wouldn't the bearing races not being properly seated manifest itself as runout in the hub and rotor? The steering wheel on this car has always had some shake to it no matter how many times I balance the wheels, so you may be on to something. Anything else I should check while I have it apart?

Pedal does not seem to sink while holding it. The light doesn't come on until I let off the pedal, one side is holding pressure longer than the other?

Shimmed the rotors, drivers side less than .001, passengers side didn't need to be shimmed, indexing it worked, under .002. Steering wheel still shakes, pedal still pulses, both have improved, but not as good as it should be. Different problem maybe? I'm not really sure where to look now. Based on this thread, my rotors should be more than straight enough. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/69784-azc-brake-shimmy-when-warm/page__hl__%2Brotor+%2Brunout

I can bleed the system normally though, it's only under hard braking that it does anything, moderate pressure braking seems normal. Left front also seems to lock up before any other wheel, if that means anything to anybody. Stock everything(good shape) except pads, I forgot to mention it before. I guess I'll try bleeding the master again, can't hurt. here's a pic of the switch from the FSM, just for reference.

Taking the mechanism out would link the front and rear circuits if I'm looking at the diagram in the FSM correctly. I might just take it out like you did.

I'm using a single LS1 camaro fan with the shroud, it's wired to be on with the key. For the most part it sits on the thermostat at 180*.

I bought a new one and it leaked too, but it was just a small hiss, doesn't bother me that much. I am tempted to try one of the slash cut exhaust pcv things for the other vent though.

I believe I'm having issues with the brake warning switch. It comes on under heavy braking, and I believe I can feel the switch in the pedal. Whenever the light comes on I can feel a notch or pop in the pedal and again when it goes out. If the light comes on, hitting the pedal again can cause it to go out. It only comes on under heavy braking. I've bled the brakes starting from the right rear going to left front. I've adjusted the rear brakes. Can the switch cause lower pressure on one of the circuits? I feel like the rear brakes aren't effective enough, but this may be because I have parts store shoes and porterfield front pads. Autocrossing, the fronts seem to lock up fairly easy.

There are TONS of very fast blow through turbo v8's. The carb isn't the problem. Even if the manifold doesn't distribute evenly, I would expect that the air fuel ratio of the affected cylinders wouldn't change much because the fuel is mixed with the air before it's distributed, that is, unless the manifold is REALLY bad and fuel is coming out of suspension.

PCV is a good thing, leave it and get a better check valve. It helps prevent oil leaks and keeps the engine bay cleaner.

I'm a little curious as to what this might gain you.

I don't think mine has electric floats, I'm pretty sure it has to do with the differential pressure switch. Some video from today, first autocross with the diff, and first try at left foot braking. Not too much 'scary' anymore.

So, the only real changes since the last event were the diff and adjusting/bleeding the brakes. The car feels very different now, it feels very planted under power and I was able to keep flat through some sections I no doubt would have had to lift on previously. I was about half a second quicker than the integra I mentioned earlier, where I was consistently 1-2sec slower previously, I'm not sure if he had a bad day, or I had a good day, but it sure seems promising. I also tried left foot braking today, I've been missing out, this is awesome.