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letitsnow

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Everything posted by letitsnow

  1. It needs a circuit built to drive the tach, the tach looks for a high voltage pulse(20ish v) from the (-) side of the coil, that's what I'm wondering about.
  2. How are you EDIS/COP/waste spark guys driving the coil? I see the circuit in the manual that calls for a relay coil to generate the high voltage pulse, but that seems like it would make an annoying chattering noise. Anyone come up with something better?
  3. I have a 5 speed nissan box of some sort, not really sure which one it is, but it's been living with 180-200rwhp for 2 years since I got it, and 270rwhp for most of this year. I might have 2000 miles on it with the higher power(2 trips to the strip on street tires, 4 autocross events, and quite a bit of street abuse), but so far so good.
  4. Front wheel drive is for the feeble, I don't really deal in FWD cars and my acronym usage mirrors that. I will adopt BHP to mean power at the crankshaft though, less ambiguity I suppose. Tony, I was simply trying to make the point that BHP and RWHP can differ, sometimes significantly, not to give accurate relationships. 180 RWHP is quite a bit different than 180 BHP.
  5. You're talking flywheel hp, right? There's a big difference, my 270 at the rear wheels is approximately 310-320 flywheel. I don't honestly know much about N/A L's, but I don't think your goals would be very difficult, I've seen a bunch of dyno plots posted with numbers like that. Wiki has some info on stock ratings. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_L_engine If your carb'd l26 stinks badly of gas, you may have a leak or need to spend some time tuning them. The couple of carb'd Z's I've been around never smelled much. The L26 wasn't rated much differently than the L28 power wise. Edit: by fwhp, I meant FlyWheel HP.
  6. Won't adding clutches also increase the breakaway torque? I'll keep my eye out for a z31 diff I think, if I can't find a reasonable one, I guess I'll go with the obx.
  7. My somewhat stock L28ET made 270rwhp, that's what that stag really wants. 150 fwhp is less than the L28e made stock, isn't it?
  8. MS2 will also run COP or waste spark. I am running waste spark because I didn't feel the 3 other outputs were best used for COP.
  9. I noticed a big change in power going from the hydraulic cam to the 'A' cam, but I have to attribute the majority to the fact that the hydraulic adjusters were in very bad shape. The 'A' cam runs great and feels reasonably rev happy for having 7.4:1 compression. There isn't much loss of torque, it made 340ftlbs with the stock turbo. The 'F' is lacking a few degrees on the 'A', but is still a bit of an improvement.
  10. Garnet paper is apparently difficult to come by around here, I'll order some and give it a shot.
  11. If you have to put your foot on the pedal, take fuel out of the cranking table.
  12. I just measured them with the indicator, the drivers rotor is perfect on both sides (*<.001 runout), the passenger side is out .004 on the outside and .001 on the inside. So it's not as bad as I thought. I just rotated the tires, the rears were pretty bad, fronts were in good shape. Maybe I should replace the bad pair and have them balanced on a fancy road force machine. Edit: these pads also squeal, BAD, but just about every pad I've had on this car has, from cheap organic to the porterfields.
  13. This is the second time I've warped the front rotors on this car, I have to check with the dial indicator, but I'd bet on it. This set lasted ~7k miles and 5 autocross events. They were mid grade raybestos rotors with porterfield r4s pads and valvoline fluid, stock configuration. Very rarely do I build much heat in them and I try not to sit on the pedal at stop lights coming off the highway. Am I doing something wrong installing them? Driving? Is this just how long a somewhat aggressively driven set of rotors lasts?
  14. My car starts great, maybe 1.5sec of cranking. Ever since I went to waste spark with the LS2 coils, it will kick back every now and then like the timing is way advanced. My FPR leaks down very quickly according to my sensor, just a few seconds and it's down to atmospheric pressure.
  15. I'd consider an upgrade to ms1e code even though you're running fuel only, it has some improvements other than spark capability. What wideband do you have so I can scale the log correctly? 30kpa is great, I idle around 32-35.
  16. Are all the bins in the VE table around idle roughly the same? Have you set the injector opening time correctly?
  17. Turn off ego correction first, then change the VE map to get it to idle nice. Any idea why rpm is divided by 100, possibly part of the BG code? Is MAT really 130*? Sitting idling for quite a while?
  18. Is the shimmed z31 diff still smooth or is it clunky like some of the aftermarket units?
  19. post another datalog that's the regular format, just put it in a zip file and upload it.
  20. I've got one, but if I were you, I'd just go with the DIYAT wheel.
  21. I built mine, I picked the hall circuit based on the square wave nature of the optical dizzy. I'm not sure if that section of the manual has been edited recently, I built mine 2 or 3 years ago.
  22. I would, it's not much if any more work, a clutch hose, k member, and driveshaft vs the bellhousing bolts and getting it back together.
  23. I'm also using the hall/optical input circuit.
  24. Try taking the spring out or locking it open some other way and seeing how much boost it makes. If it makes any significant amount, I'd say you need to reposition the gate for better priority. A good friend of mine has a scion with some sort of precision turbo, his gate is at a 90* angle feeding from half of a merge collector, he has a 7lb spring in it and it makes 11-12psi.
  25. I'm somewhere around 345ish, running wasted spark with LS2 coils.
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