letitsnow

Mine would do it occasionally with them off, but with them on it was like hitting the rev limiter.

Generally e85 makes more power, the cooling effects and the oxygen it brings along help. It does have less energy per volume, which is why you get worse gas mileage and need bigger injectors for the same power. If it's a turbo car we're talking about, it'll make a lot more power because of the effective octane and cylinder/charge cooling. A friend of mine with a turbo RSX-S made just about the same power on e85 as he did on 93, but with 9psi instead of 13psi.

It was dropping down to 12.3-11.9ish with the headlights on. The wiring had too much resistance(because of several splices) and couldn't really keep up with the demand. I was referring to the post above mine, your problem just seems a bit different.

I've had similar issues. I found the battery voltage was dropping in boost, the alternator wiring was at fault in this case. Having 13.5-14v at WOT helped significantly.

How hard is the shaft and gear, think I need a carbide drill? Any good reason to make it a through hole? I'll be doing it on a bridgeport.

Alright, I'll see if I can do it sometime this week after work.

How about a couple quick tack welds? Keeping the heat input low to keep things straight.

That seems to be exactly what I'm seeing(static shift), I'm also fighting a bit of an ignition issue, so there has been a fair amount of high rpm surging, but I believe I've tracked that down to bad alternator wiring. The only thing that doesn't explain is why a net zero change in trigger offset moved timing 8*. I'm not sure I understand which gear is the one potentially moving, the gear on the pump/dizzy driveshaft?

my coils are driven directly from MS, no edis. im using the trigger wheel from diy auto tune.

I found that my car seems to be changing timing for an unknown reason, one day it was advanced 12*(and corrected), a few days later it was 8* retarded. The MS tooth offset didn't seem to respond quite as I expected, but I'm not sure why. I checked for slop with a dial indicator on the rotor, the probe was about 1 3/16 from the center. I measured about .045" worth of movement. This is the amount that it moved and stayed at after pushed on. I could move it more, but I suspect it was the plastic rotor that was flexing the most.

Measuring it with a dial indicator, it works out to be about 2.5 degrees of movement. Not enough to cause the big discrepancy I saw.

I was going off the ignition advance gauge in TS. DIY says that's about what the trigger angle should be set to. I now believe it's slop in the dizzy drive.

There's something weird going on, the base timing keeps changing on me. The dizzy is locked down and the sensor is bolted in tight. A few days ago I checked the timing because I thought I heard it pinging in boost, it was advanced, I adjusted the trigger angle to correct it. Today I checked again, it was retarded 8*, I adjusted the trigger angle again, 8* change, it moved 10, dialed it back a bit, no change, I set it back to the number I started with, but now the timing is correct. So the series of events went like this today: timing light reads 12*(20 commanded) change trigger angle from 329 to 321 timing light reads 23* trigger angle to 324 little/no visible change trigger angle to 329 timing light reads 20* MS2 v3 wasted spark DIYAT wheel in the turbo dizzy

I'd say just upgrade the pump.

Call up anplumbing.com and ask them if they have a BSP to -4 adapter, they've been helpful in the past when I called.

Find somewhere else, I wouldn't be surprised at a quote of $1k though. I built my own exhaust for my LS1 FC RX7(and my Z, but that was easy in comparison). 2.5" true dual with an X pipe and magnaflow mufflers. It took me probably 20 hours to do and almost $500 in materials. For someone a bit more experienced, 10-12hrs would be more appropriate, with a shop rate of $50/hr that's about $1k.

I bought a V band assembly off ebay for ~$20. The machining on the flanges is great, assuming I don't warp them when I weld it, it should seal great.

Went to the drag strip tonight, I only got 1 run in before it started to rain. It was pretty warm and very humid, I ran a 13.0 at 106 with a 2.0 60'. I'm pretty confident I can drop .1 or .2 off the 60', putting me well into the 12's. Edit: On the dyno, we found out that my leaking blow off valve was causing a 15hp and 30ftlb loss. The sheet I posted was with the leak stopped, the run I made tonight was with it leaking.

I got a steal on the injectors and it idles great, so why not? I am planning for around 400-450rwhp at some point, possibly on e85.

No, fuel system is siemens deka 750's + pallnet rail + AEM adjustable FPR + walbro 255. Running 38ish psi base pressure. Peak duty cycle was ~54%. LOL

I am in need of a '77-'78 gas tank that's in good shape. I already have 2 that need work, so I'm not terribly interested in those. Shipping to 14470, I'm willing to drive a bit to pick one up if need be. If you can get a pic or 2 of the inside I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

Here's a video from the autocross, just for the heck of it.

Pretty quick? Haven't measured, it should run mid 12's in the 1/4 at 108-110ish. I ran 13.4 at 101 on roughly 80hp less, 8.6sec to 81mph in the 1/8.

Depending on where you go, you can get a B housing machined for an E wheel, then you don't need a spacer.

50 trim compressor is my choice in a t3/t04e. A precision 5557 also seems like a good choice, as do some of the Borg Warner EFR turbos.