letitsnow

I used it to eliminate quite a few cones this afternoon.

I am in desperate need of an LSD. I currently make about 270rwhp and 340ftlbs of torque, I'm planning on another 100ish hp in the future and would like to account for that. The car is primarily a street car and autocrosser with some trips to the drag strip. You guys that went with the OBX unit, are you happy with it? Would you buy another one? Any issues? I figure that my other options are an aftermarket 240sx 1.5 way, like a KAAZ or Carbonetic. A used 240sx 2 way can be had cheap from the drift crowd. An STi r180, but that might not be the greatest with my planned power increases. I suppose the z31 is on the table but they generally have a bunch of miles for what they cost. I don't think a Quaife is in the budget, a new 240sx clutch diff is pushing it.

Got a wideband?

Locked timing isn't that great, you need to run less at peak torque and more as you move up the rev range. I'd say right around 20 to start with. Just to give you an idea of what a proper timing curve can do for you, I have a mostly stock L28ET, 'A' cam, IC, full exhaust, bigger injectors, stock turbo, run by MS2e. With 17psi falling to 10psi by redline, I've run 8.4 in the 1/8 with a best trap of about 87mph, best 1/4 run of 13.0 and best trap of 108mph. That's ~100+hp more than what you've got going on. What is the fuel system like? ecu, injectors, ect?

People have done GM th350 and 700r4 swaps behind these things, using the same adapters and the MS GPIO you could run a 4l60e or 4l80e if you wanted.

Buy a stock one, then send it to g pop shop or AZ turbo & tractor supply to be rebuilt to whatever you want. You might even call them and see what they can do without a core. Expect to pay $100-$150 for a stocker and $400-$600 to have it built to your specs. The chinese crap is just that, crap.

+1 to johnc, Y it together after the transmission and run it out the stock location with a single 3" pipe. I built a dual exhaust for my dad's LS1 rx7, it took 3 8+ hour days of grinding and fitting, that car has a little more room underneath than a Z and has places for 2 mufflers at the back stock. There's nothing worse than crap ground clearance IMO.

In hindsight, a sorted out, running, tuned L28ET would have been worth 2k for me. I bought a 'good' used engine, turned out to have been rebuilt by an idiot, had to rebuild it, had to build a megasquirt, had to build a harness, had to fight with both, etc. Do a leakdown check, bolt it in, and go racing. The leakdown is important, I ran very low 14's in the 1/4 mile at 98ish mph with no compression and a bad valvetrain, to many that is pulling hard. Rebuilding the engine, now I'm running 13.0 at 106ish mph, that's 80+hp more than 'pulls hard', same setup, just a good engine and tuning.

It was at the dome center, next event is sunday at RIT. Power was more manageable, but I still need more practice.

Mine is about even with the frame rails, I've never had this car scrape.

Take a look at the borg warner 7064 efr, it appears to be a pretty good fit for the L28.

V8 RX7 guys swap the 8.8 irs in when they want different ratios or start breaking stuff. It's a great swap, lots of gear choices, strong, and decent LSD choices.

I'm using a set of 14mm seimens 750's(only that big because they were cheap), I used a pallnet rail and the stock seals in the intake. The injectors form more of a face seal than a diametrical seal that the stock injectors had.

Good luck! Hopefully you have a bit better luck than I did this weekend, the front of the car is supposed to exit the corner before the rear.

Most likely not blown up, a leakdown would be irrefutable that it's not blown up. Your timing looks somewhat conservative, but I'm not familiar with VG's.

I'm just about to head out to an autocross. I toned down the mid range torque a touch since last time(little less boost), hopefully it's a little more manageable.

Stick a stock cam back in it?

Absolutely fix it before megasquirt, you will chase your tail for months if you don't. Ask me how I know.

Do you recall the AFR up top for this run? We haven't really mentioned ignition timing yet, is it doing anything funky? Can you watch it with a timing light on the dyno? Assuming that the AFR was alright and the timing isn't doing anything crazy, I'd absolutely look at the valvetrain. Obviously you need to fix the AFR, but if it was in a decent place after the big lean spike and didn't make power, I'd look for another issue. The curve is very similar to when I had failed hydraulic lash adjusters in my turbo engine, pulls hard up to 4500, then nothing, might as well have taken my foot off the pedal. I would check the cam with a degree wheel/dial indicator, look at wipe pattern for GP, measure the installed valvespring height, the valvespring force at that height and at peak compression and check against what's recommended by the cam grinder.

So this is not a new problem? Was it an entirely new setup or were there thing reused? If you lean it out, barring the very lean area, does it make power to redline(~7k)?

I don't think you'd see that from being a few degrees advanced or retarded, he loses 100hp in 200rpms! Also, I wouldn't call 250* @.050 lift small. My STOCK cam doesn't start falling off until 6000, and then it's a gentle slope. I would check all the valve springs and make sure you don't have a soft one or some other failure there, then I would try to get the AFR's to a better place, bottoming out a wideband is RICH and will kill power in a bad way.

HSS drill went right through it, the gear appears to be cast iron or something. It did not like me trying to stake it, whenever I hit it with the punch it just mushed right out of the way, hopefully the loctite holds it in.

Ordered new valve seals, it'll be nice to be able to go more than 2 weeks on a set of plugs. That might not be the only contributing factor though, I was bottoming out the wideband in boost for a few days.

It can be done, I'm sure it'll be a pain to fixture, but it can be done.

Bring it to a machine shop and ask them to machine it flat?