letitsnow

I have the t3 completely tapped out, a bigger turbo would be wise.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/106427-just-got-off-the-dyno/

Little bit of humor between the tuner and me.

The autocross was held by FLR SCCA at RIT. I'm planning on running the season, and maybe a few BMWCCA or WNY SCCA events if you want to come out to one of those. I still haven't got that bumper on yet, it's still sitting inside waiting. I need a fuel tank if you know of one for a '77 sitting somewhere.

Rick Gifford(also known as Bald turbo freak) in honeoye did the tuning. The car is a blast, I autocrossed it today and it did great, the huge torque did make things a little tricky, the rain didn't help either. A couple times I wanted a bit of power and got a ton, but it's still very manageable.

Ok, maybe not just, but friday. I figured I'd post the sheet because I don't see many positive results. Boost was ~17psi at peak torque and a linear taper down to 10psi at redline, we're pretty sure the T3 is out of air. This is corrected for atmospheric conditions, observed power was 250hp/320tq. On other runs we did go to 6k and power remained almost completely flat. L28ET STOCK turbo 'A' cam Evo 8 IC w/2.25" piping n42 intake MSA downpipe to 3" mandrel bent exhaust with summit racing brand turbo muffler Kameari 1mm HG MS2 v3 LS1 truck coils

I ran 13.4 at 101 on 6-7psi with an intercooler and megasquirt, I WILL go mid 12's this year with it. I would NOT count on doing it for sub-$1500, these engines are old and will have surprises, things will nickle and dime you to death. Plan on at LEAST 50% more than you're planning on.

Yup, that's the stuff, but I used a spray can. You should be good.

This is the rx7 I mentioned above.

Sounds like you need to do some tuning, start at the lowest boost you can, shoot for 11.5-12ish:1 afr, build or buy some 'det cans'(google it if you have to), find the max timing you can run without detonation, then pull 3-4 degrees out.

I had one DOA, it wouldn't do or respond to anything.

You have the output configured correctly, right?

SS wire isn't that expensive, if you're going to use SS, buy the correct wire.

225 on a 9" wheel isn't stretched? 255 on a 9" wheel has a square sidewall, at least for the tires I used, kumho ecsta spt's.

The BBQ paint on my manifold has held up pretty well, it can be seen glowing at night after a 1st-4th run.

I've got a 135 miller, had it for 8 years or so and it's been great! I've built a ton of stuff for various cars. I recently picked up a used Diversion 180 TIG on craigslist for $1200, it's a 110v/220v unit, 110v is limited to 125 amps. The ability to weld aluminum is great.

Use a stock 5.3L LS1 with a BW S400 turbo.

It's all I run in anything older than the early '90's or so. Does it make a difference? Don't know, but I did lose 2 flat tappet cams in a SBC doing everything to the letter running normal oil, after that lots of people told me to run rotella. I built a roller cam engine after that so I can't say if it helped or not, but I doubt it hurts.

Anybody ever use any techline coatings, DIY style? I can sandblast and bake it. Swain says 150-235 for cast iron manifolds, not terrible.

I'm having some issues that I think are being caused by heat from the turbo/manifold, poor hot starts, melting wiring, possibly hot fuel. Has anybody wrapped the manifold? Any problems with cracking, warping, etc? I think I'm also going to wrap the intake runners and put a sleeve over the fuel rail. Swaintech is local, but 2-3x more expensive.

I have 16x8 +0 with 225/50's, they fit with a very slight roll, so slight that I haven't bothered to do it yet, the rears rub very occasionally on bigger bumps with passengers. I got these before the coilovers, I could have easily gone with nearly an inch more on the inboard side with the same clearance to the fender if I waited 'till after the coils. By coils I mean sectioned struts with sleeves and bilsteins, not the threaded adapters, not sure what the clearance is like with those. If you go with a shorter, stiffer spring you can get the lower perch above the tire and gain even more room.

You do this, just because.

My engine had to be dead on TDC in order to not turn over. Good luck with the swap, my school starts back up monday. Break in for me lasted about 20 minutes, then I started beating on it, I didn't turn the boost up for a few hundred miles though. Your car looks GREAT by the way!

Read the megamanual and search the MS section here, you need to have a good understanding of how things work if you want to end up with a successful install. You don't need a TPS, but it's nice to have.

I built a leakdown tester with a regulator from lowes, some fittings, and a hose from a compression tester. It works beautifully, basically you make an orifice between the regulator and the cylinder, set the pressure before the cylinder and measure the pressure in the cylinder. It will be less because of the restriction of the orifice. Say you set the regulator to 100psi and you measure 90psi in the cylinder, that's 10% leakdown. After using one, I wouldn't be without it, I had similar compression numbers, but between 30 and 70% leakdown on my old engine, the new one is 8%. This is pretty close to what I have, it's WAAAYYY better than the HF one I tried. http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/481133-how-make-your-own-faa-spec-leakdown-tester.html