Garrett76Zt

Yeah, I'd like to see the hare that would take on this tortoise!

I had no idea that you were so close. I live in Highland Park in the the North suburbs. What is the current status on the turbo project? I would love to hang out sometime. Ivan and I are getting serious about getting the cars ready for Georgia in March. Like he said, we would love to have another Z in the caravan! PM me and we can hook up Garrett

Thats basically my question. I find lots of z31 turbo's in JY's, but no s130's. Can the bellhousings be swapped from a 280zx t-5 or are the input shafts different altogether? Thanks, Garrett

I valeted outside tonight and it was 17 degrees. But I did get "pity tips"!

Ivan and I are running nearly identical exhaust setups. We both have 3" from the turbo all the way back. He is running a Magnaflow and I am running a Dynomax. The cars sound nearly identical. My car sounds beautiful at idle, nice deep rumble and really isnt very loud at cruising speeds about 2800-3000 like on the interstate. The only time that it gets loud is when first accelerating at like 2000 rpms or so, then once the revs go up the car gets quieter. Anyways I love it and it certainly made a performance diff.

Ha! Now he tells me he has a trailer! Dude, they are planning on keeping the track open as long as the weather is nice. so there is a good chance that there will be some action this weekend. Besides if it was like it was last week, you can make enough runs to break stuff! I suppose I could bring an extra halfshaft and try for some 1.8 60's! Let me know if you're interested, I got nothin goin on on Sat.

Well I tried to post a link . . .It was a STI Colorado State Patrol Car. Guess the link is gone

dude! nice reply time! I believe both studs are broken off even with the side of the head, so will the easy out work ok? I can just see it now . . ."WD40 is on the ropes . . .PB Blaster kicks him right in the #@#$%!"

Hey all, I have two broken studs in the head, from my exhaust manifold. Whats the easiest/best way to retrieve them? I have seen those reverse threaded screw kit, where you drill a hole in the center of the stud and then back them out using that screw, is this the best way? Did I just answer my own question? Also is there a better penetrating fluid I can use(brand name) that WD-40? Thanks in advace all you gearheads.

Wow that looks beautiful. I think I'm heading down the road to CV's as well, the way I beat on my car . . .

Wow, we should paint this post pink and give it a bass drum to beat on!

I was out the other night messing around in the z and came across a little pack of cars that were cruising. In the front of the pack were two 'rex's. One blue with a BIG frontmount, exhaust etc, the other black with mods as well. I weaved my way in and made a few pulls with the black one(the lesser modded) He wasn't crazy fast, but he definetely pulled away from me. If you saw my post, I ran a 13.9 the next day, so I'm guessing this one was about 13.5 or so. I did see the blue one take on the black one and the blue one just WALKED him. Anyways that night I did kill a '04 Mustang gt(twice) and a S2000. Good times . . . Yeah . . . Good times

I recently put in a set of z31 seats(86), gutted the electronics and power lombar, etc. THey still weigh a bit more than stock but they are really snug, comfortable and apporopriately read, "TURBO"

I think you should put a turbo L6 in that thing!

hahaha Well I took her out for another spin thinking I have nothing to lose. So I get into it and it falls on its face and I start kick . . .kicking the ECU harness and it was like Go . . .Go Gadget turbo!! THis is too funny. ANyways the connector wasn't seated all the way so now its all good. But hey I learned stuff in the process and I have a new fuel pump, filter and gauge! Now we return you to your regulary scheduled debate . . .

Alright guys, Heres the results of my test run. My static fuel pressure at idle is 42 psi. with vacuum hooked up it is 32 I think. anyways, under full boost I am getting 50 psi, and the car continues to accelerate but feels like a dog. The car pulls real strong up until about 4000 rpms and then just feels flat. So what do these numbers tell me? I saw no drastic change in fuel pressure when I feel the car stop pulling. BTW I'm only running 8.5 psi boost right now

I think I could speak for most of the L6 guys here when I say that I find it funny that none of the L6 guys feel threatened by the v8 people here. We respect you and share your love of fast z-cars. However it seems to be the opposite for at least some of the V8 members. I'm not understanding this. I think there are two ways to solve this problem. Either we resolve the conflict and coexist peacefully, OR embrace the conflict and have a HYBRIDZ V8 vs. HYBRID 6 CYLINDER showdown! Take it to the quarter! I mean if the prejudice is based on the belief that an L6 z will never beat a V8z then let the schooling begin! Let's just hope that James doesn't catch wind of this thread. I've seen the trash talk he's capable of . . . and the car to back it up!!

ok well back to the problem . . . I just bought some extra fuel hose, so I will run the fuel gauge up to the windshield and see what is happening with fuel pressure at WOT. It seems to me that the problem must be A/F realated since the car ran extremely rich when the problem originated. SO if the regulator is stuck open what should I be looking for at WOT as far as pressure goes?

Well, I'm reading pressure off my boost gauge which is plumbed into the intake manifold. Is this not good for an accurate reading?

Ok, I just got back from another test run. My pressure gauge reads 20 at idle when warm, so I am pretty sure I don't have a significant vacuum leak. I have tuned the afm so lean that it turns the plugs white and so rich that it turns the plugs black, but at no time did this problem go away. so i guess it has to be either a component that is causing a significant A/F change under high load or a non A/F component all together. I adjusted the TPS with no change, disconnected the TPS with no change, disconnected the knock sensor with no change. I don't know how the knock sensor works, except that it retards timing when it detects knock. Would this happen if it was bad? Or when it was even disconnected? Any more ideas?This has to be something pretty simple because it was running well within the past 3-4 days. Please keep the ideas coming, I am really stumped!!!

Ok, well I will go ahead and do a thorough look for vacuum/boost leaks. Also about the knock sensor, can this be checked by taking a wrench and tapping the block while checking to see if the timing is retarded?

Well, this is certainly not a clutch problem. If it was running that lean wouldn't I see it on the plugs? And how is it running lean with 40 psi static fuel pressure? Any more thoughts? I gotta figure this out!

Ok, first I'll state the problem, how it came about and then all the facts I can think of. -Running 10 psi boost the car pulls strong to about 3500-4000 and then stops pulling. Boost gauge stays at 10 psi, and the rpm's still go up but the car is not pulling any longer. Just kinda feels flat. If I lower boost to 8 psi or raise it to 12 psi it feels no different. - The car was running great a few nights ago, pulling strong to redline. I went out and really got on it a few times, really ran it hard. No problems. On my way home I noticed really bad gas fumes. running extremely rich. So the next day I leaned it out on the AFM so that is was back to a manageable smell. Now I notice that I have this problem. It could have been there the night before on my way home, but I really wasn't driving it hard on the way home. -So I pull the plugs and they are white, like it is running lean. so I turn boost down, richin the mixture back up and go again. Same problem, doesn't pull past 3500 or so. So I upgrade the fuel pump and still no better -Now that I have it richened, I pull the plugs and they are nice and golden, just about right, but I still have my problem. Ok . . .facts -new T-Rex fuel pump -new fuel filter -cap and rotor look fine -new NGK's -timing is at 20 BTDC -compression is a strong 135-140 across the board -new CHTS potential problems -static fuel pressure is at 40psi(using stock regulator)if this is rich at idle would it be causing my problem under boost? Wouldn't my plugs be fouled? Would a bad regulator do this? -other sensors? knock, O2, etc? Please help me out here, I'm kinda stumped! Thanks, Garrett

I agree with fl327. When I did my swap, I just bought a rusted out zxt with a good motor/trans. That way I had all everything I would need(ecu, fuel pump relay, efi relay, etc.) I got the car for like $500 and then started parting out the rest of the car like t-tops, interior,etc. Which reminds me I still have a really good zxt dash, anyone interested? Garrett

Well, I'll be driving my turbo z through the winter. Man am I not looking forward to it. Chicago winters suck!! Lots of snow and no sun either. I gotta move back to Florida!