Garrett76Zt

Car is fixed, running awesome, headed to FL! Smoking STI's on 7 psi is fun!!

No. The hot engine misfire only happens under load and above 2k rpm and only seems to happen after the car has been running awhile. Yes Wideband. Its located about 2 1/2 feet back from turbo. No knock sensor, Car is definitely safe as far as AFR's go when in boost but i havent yet had this problem while in boost anyways. It happens when i'm cruising above 2k rpm so like 10 inch vacuum or so. High 11's I need to focus first on why this stupid thing like to die at idle. Could this have anything to do with a screwy turbo timer? Maybe it is cutting ignition while idling or cruising, cause the car will start right back up every time.??

ultimate goal id like to see the car make over 400 to the wheels . . . I had one other pull on the dyno with a boost controller hooked up but it started creeping, so the dyno operator let out at 11psi, but it had already made 240hp at 4k rpm! it was a much steeper HP run that the 280hp one, so it was goin well over 300 at only 11psi . . .

so one of the employees of a local tuning shop goes out and bags a brand new Mitsu Outlander. . . slams it, JDM front end, throws some wheels on it and oh yeah, full EVO drivetrain swap with a ton of custom go fast goodies and throws down 630hp to the wheels on the dyno!! Saw this car in person and its sick!

thanks for the reply, As far as idle goes this happens when the car is sitting in the garage idling, not just while im driving. it will sit there and idle perfectly for several minutes and then all the sudden die, there is no stumble or anything first, goes from perfect to dead just like that. I'm not sure i fully follow what you're saying about the timing/coilpacks. I definitely think it could be temperature related since the car runs for several minutes just fine until everything gets real hot. Keep in mind this is a problem that i was not having the past few days and all the sudden appeared last night. what exactly can i check to see if what you're saying is true? Is there a possiblity that any of these problems could be related to either the water temp sensor or the air temp sensor? I say that cause i have the air temp sensor mounted on my sheet metal intake manifold and last night it got REALLY hot after multiple passes on the dyno. Tomorrow i am putting a fresh sensor in the IC piping just before the TB like the manual says to. I also want to rule out that it has anything to do with my alternator issues. right now i'm trying to figure out why all my gauges went out. all the bulbs still light up but they all went dead at the same time.

Anybody? Pullin my hair out here.

so im trying to leave chicago and drive to FL, my wife and i are just waiting for me to figure out whats wrong with the car. I will try and be very concise in describing the problem(s): (BACKGROUND INFO) 1. When the car first got running the car would only run on the battery, alt not charging. Alternator is good though. Battery is brand new. Turns out its that charge bulb in the dash that isnt telling the alternator to turn on. So i wired the plug in the alternator straight to the battery. This brought the alternator online no problem. just today i wired in a relay just to be safe and voltage actually rose some. Voltage is somewhat steady but kinda high like low 14's at idle and high 14's at higher rpms. Just went for a drive and everything was fine for about 10 min then i lost all the stock gauges and my Autometer tach. All went dead. ( Main Problem(s) ) 1. Car dies at idle - this has been happening for a few days. Every so often when i pull up to a light and the car is idling perfectly it will just die. Seems like ignition is cutting out, cause when i crank it back up it backfires on the extra fuel in the cylinders. but it does crank back up and then idle until sporatically dying again. 2. Car misfires badly and dies above 2k rpm - This just started happening last night after my dyno session. I didnt mess with any timing maps or anything in the sds. The car will be running just fine, nice and smooth then all the sudden misfire really badly and die, sometimes bad enough that it blows the fuse to the coilpacks(another reason why i think its ignition related) Things i've checked: 1. Fusible links all check out ok 2. 3 grounds running to SDS ECU 3. Switched power for SDS is solid connection 4. Tried running power to the coilpacks directly to the battery, thinking perhaps the ignition switch is being overloaded or something. 5. Checked my hall sensor mount and its still solid, maybe my magnets are falling out or something Anyways i cleaned up some connections, replaced fuses and took another drive . . . it still died out twice while i was at red lights but the car ran awesome all the way through the powerband . . . for about 10 min. Then same thing, started misfiring(and backfiring) sometimes when above 2k rpm I talked with SDS today and he had me hunt around a few things without any real luck. they are closed now. Now is the time to mention anything and everything to figure this crap out, We really need to get on the road soon, but no way am i doing that with the car running like it is. HELP ME OUT GUYS!

Well I'm just now waking up . . . Oleh, you must have someone mixed up. Ivan never worked at sound performance. He works at AMS now but they were not able to get me on the dyno there so i went to SpeedQuest just because they are local and cheap, they just ran the dyno, I did everything else myself . . . although i wish they could have done more. By the way you'd be surprised what you find hiding in AMS's work bays . . . it aint all DSM's. I just hate the fact that they are handing out 11 sec cars to total goobers every week. Alright gotta figure this crap out.

Well im a little happy and very frustrated. The car has been running outstanding for the past two days. I put the wideband on it and got it street tuned for 7 psi. The car is unreal how fast it is at 7 psi . . . Anyways the only problem i've had was that every once in a while when i pull up to a stop light the car dies, its cutting ignition somehow. I wait a few seconds and the car will backfire and crank up again. Maybe once or twice aday . . . So tonight i hit the dyno: GOOD NEWS:280hp to the wheels at 7psi!! not a hair past 7psi. BAD NEWS: I have been up for 48 straight hours trying to get this stupid car ready for a road trip to FL and I wasnt as prepared as I should have been. I wasnt really up to speed with my new boost controller so i fell back on a manual i brought along . . . after two manual BC's we could never get it to hold boost . . . it kept creeping. On one run it started to spike past 10 psi and the operator let out but the car had already made 240hp by 4k. So anyways the car has a ton left in it, I just suck at tuning and have no decent boost controller at the moment . . . . But its just as well because no sooner do i leave the shop then all hell breaks loose. I'm cruising down the street at like 3k rpm and it misfires BAD, backfires and dies. This becomes a repeating process everytime i go over 2k sometimes blowing the 7.5 amp fuse to the coilpacks. Everytime it dies, I can start it back up but some kind of wiring issue/ignition/ground . . . who knows I am so tired . . . I checked fusible links, sds grounds, etc. . . Anybody want a 280hp turd? Going to sleep, help me if you can.

ok i'll mess with it tonight and see what happens, i also need to find a major drivetrain vibration somewhere, i think my car makes too much power! haha

Compression is a solid 140 and im getting spark on all 6 cyl. Any help guys??

ok so i think that my #2 injector isnt firing, only reason i say this is because while the car is running i pulled off each injector clip one at a time and the car stumbled at every cylinder except #2. When i pull it off the car continues to idle just fine. So i put a screwdriver down to it while its running and it sounds like its clicking away . . . I tested voltage at the clip and it checks out ok . . . I plugged in a noid light and it lights up . . . I swapped the actual injector with #1 injector and its the exact same thing, so its not the injector itself . . . And i drove the car, and its plenty fast and i dont seem to hear any stumble/misfire . . . So am i just making something up? All tests indicate that it should be working except that if i pull off the injector clip nothing happens . . . What gives?? how can i be sure that the thing is working correctly?

Chris, since our setups are so similar, I'm curious what kind of power you are putting down . . . have you hit the dyno yet?

alright well, i guess i'll be getting some o-rings for that beast . . . haha one a good note i just snagged this . . . HKS EVC 5 Boost controller . . . sells for about $480 . . . i got it for $280 mint

Sil-lady . . . I'm in highland park about 20 min from Kwai . . . what do you have a z32?

Mike . . . the filter did not come with o-rings for sealing . . . am i supposed to add them? kinda frustrating. Well i did some research over at KA-t.org and it would seem like 400 is about the limit for the input shaft . . . although there have been a few guys that are making more and the tranny is holding . . . Anyways I was tired of the T5 and couldnt find a replacement and since there are 4 240sx's in the junkyard right now . . .and i can get a 5-speed for $40 . . . seemed like a no-brainer.

Mike . . . I might have to take you up on that after i hit the dyno and see what i can do with these 450's So I crank it up yeterday, with just the downpipe . . .It sounds EVIL . . . I hit the throttle a few times to get my jollies and all of a sudden i get a nice fine stream of fuel spraying from the outlet of my brand new Aeromotive Fuel Filter!! Its right where the AN fitting screws into it . . . I gotta go back and figure out whats up today. . .

I wouldnt go that far . . . hahaha Lets see . . . I had stock EFI stock T3 bone stock motor Spearco IC 3" exhaust 60mm TB 370cc injectora 15psi 38psi fuel pressure (i think) screwed with the AFM some Now I really should scan the dyno sheet, but with the stock efi i had to have it super rich down low in order for it to be barely safe on the top . . . it was still getting way to lean up top . . . so I drove it for about a year like that and then I had enough and got SDS haha.

Thanks for all the positive comments guys . . . I was just lazy with those clamps, although there are beads welded around every connecting pipe . . . Well the drivetrain on this car is gonna be the interesting part. I did the 240sx tranny swap with an ACT 6-puck . . .bad news is I still have halfshafts and and open r200. That would be the only thing that should keep this car out of the 11's . . . the car only weighs 2525 lbs . . . time will tell . . .

I made 274 hp and 326 ft lbs of torque on stock t-3 and stock ecu and stock motor at 15 psi. had a spearco and 3" exhaust

SEZ here I come!! 3.0 Liter forged motor . . . Thagard intake manifold . . . http://www.speedshopthagard.com Pallnet O-ring rail (custom brackets). . . http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/ 450cc injectors . . . 60-1 turbo . . . Dyno sometime next week, should make about 400hp to the wheels at about 20 psi . . . we'll see!! What do yall think?

ok if this actually happened inside the garage how on earth is the ceiling still intact? How did the taillight of the truck get busted? Weird pic anyways.

Even though I'm running the L motor myself, I'd have to say that there really isnt a "close" comparison to be made. I mean, nobody tried harder to really push the potential of an l28 than James did with the TT setup and I think he would tell you that the huge power numbers are never gonna come from that motor. Perhaps that is why he has gone the RB26 route. I also know that Jon Taylor is up in the 400's (hp) with only bolt ons to his BONE STOCK RB25 and he isnt even running 20 psi on that thing yet.