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tooquick260

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Everything posted by tooquick260

  1. tooquick260
    I'm off to the dyno this morning. Well get back to what I end up with.
  2. tooquick260
    Yeah that will work as well. I have the down pipe with the O2 bung in it. But I was running the stock ecu before that used a narrow band O2. I wanted to have a gauge to read wide band and with the strap it was easy.
  3. tooquick260
    i have the ms3 pro running. not well yet. i have reserved time on a dyno with profressional help tomorrow. stay tuned and will give the results.
  4. tooquick260
    As far as wiring I did gm weather pack connectors for most of the connections. Wires that will be wired thru a fuse or a relay I have left longer than needed or with butt and male/female connectors. Those will be redone once the car is tuned in as what I feel a good driver. O2 sensor I used the AEM drill hole in pipe, they have a strap the goes around the hole and has the bung for the O2 sensor to screw into.
  5. tooquick260
    playing email tag with matt we got the car to run on sequential. he had me switch trigger 2 angle to rising. car runs poorly but better. working on it a little when i have a chance.
  6. tooquick260
    I switched from seq to batch and got it to fire and run. Roughly. I picked up some new plugs and will install tomorrow. I will go thru everything again tomorrow.
  7. tooquick260
    yes got the timing to show up with the timing light by dropping the tooth #1 angle to 226. car almost starts but will not keep running. timing was reading 5 degrees by the timing light.
  8. tooquick260
    I have not. Will get help this week. Need someone to start car so I can see timing light. I am setting base timing with rotor phasing suggested by Matt at megasquirt. Should get timing base set.
  9. tooquick260
    Have you seen his build? He has had 3 dramatic engine failures. Something has to change!@
  10. tooquick260
    The gauge cluster ignition advance. No I have not checked trigger logger. No ms3 does not require a cam signal and I can run batch fire, semi or sequential injection.
  11. tooquick260
    Well the install is done. The computer communicates to MS3 pro. I have sensors working tps, map, 02 wideband, coolant, reads 10 degrees timing during cranking with out fuel pressure and pulse width moves while cranking. I have done the injector test and the coil/spark test. They all click/fire at the appropriate time. I could not get the fuel pump to work off the MS3pro negative ground so have it wired to ign on. I have fuel pressure. While cranking car does will not start. I get a random fire, more of a misfire. MS3 Pro N42 head Stage 1 cam 240sx tps 500cc injectors Ign 6 coil tower AEM air/fuel wide band 83 turbo dizzy DIY optical disc I think that is all the info you need. Here is a data log of an attempted start. Dont know if this helps. 2014-04-14_09.50.00 - 260z log1.zip
  12. tooquick260
    I think the arizona setup has more adj.
  13. tooquick260
    Not much on the diy megsquirt, wiring done. Plugged laptop in and communicated with the ecu. Did preliminary input of parameters of the motor. Had an error come up and diy told me that I have the tooth count wrong. Would not let me run sequential the way I had it set. Did work on my B13, put lowering springs on, dropped it about 3 inches. Painting the wheels with Plasti-dip now.
  14. tooquick260
    Ok,, tks. I have fixed my dash light issue, the glove box light was dangling and touching the metal frame of the dash. Now I have a turn signal fuse blowing issue. I will figure it out. Both BL and BG are for restraints. Thanks again CG
  15. tooquick260
    Skip the chipped computers and go straight for the programmable computer. I went down that whole road. Stock 83 ecu, z31 ecu, chipped z31 ecu.
  16. tooquick260
    Under review, I was cross eyed... I see that it goes into the harness in the car to a transfer block comes out as a LR to the seat belt interlock. I know I don't need that. I see no reference of the BG wire.
  17. tooquick260
    Hold that thought....
  18. tooquick260
    Thanks CG I have 2 wires that are black with BW wires that are ign on. The BL, BG do not have power. Would they have gotten power from the ballast resistor. Now I have not cut open that harness there to verify that it turns into a black wire. I am reading the FSM and it traces the BL back to the B on the passenger turn signal. Unless my FSM is wrong,, that never happens HA. Here is the wire schematic. So I still don't understand what that does. It goes into the harness from the ballast resistor to the left of the radiator comes out as a solid black wire that goes to the turn signal housing. is it supplying power to something? Here is a pic of the wires in question. I am using the black w/white tracer as an ignition on for my MS3pro. Leaves me with the 2 black wires with green and blue tracers, the one with green tracer has a jumper wire that is white/black tracer. There is a blue wire there that I think was the tach wire and a green wire. The green I believe is the A/C switched wire. I also have another ignition on black w/white tracer sitting there not being used. What gives. Issue I am having is i popped the turn signal fuse when I tried the switch.Those are the only thing old that was plugged in before I removed the dash, coil and balast. I am trying to remove what I don't need.
  19. tooquick260
    There is a wire that goes from the turn signal (B-black) into the harness from the drivers side to the ceramic resistor block that is attached to the coil in the harness it changes to BL-black with blue stripe. What does this do? There is also a black with green strip that I see no notations in the FSM of what it does or goes? These are in the same bundle that has the blue coil wire and a solid green wire that I know not what to do with.
  20. tooquick260
    Yes read,, I am in the process of installing MS3Pro. Very straight forward. My delay has been other items I am fixing along the way. Repaired dash, heater core valve and hoses, resetting up for A/C, putting different gauges in the dash, rewiring, fixing the radio mount etc. But I have read the manual 3 times and still get something new everytime.
  21. tooquick260
    Any updates?
  22. tooquick260
    Just in case anyone else can't find this. The wiring for the 280zxt distributor is as follows.. Dizzy Side Harness Side Purpose Red B/W 12v+ White G/B Primary Trigger Green G/Y Second Trigger Black Black Ground
  23. tooquick260
    I just put a P90 head on a L26. I had the head shaved .40 thousands. Put shims under the cam towers. Had new longer valves put in. Head work done with some light port work done. The machine work and assembly of the head was $500 at a local machine shop. Also included the weld up of my N42 intake to accept the 240sx throttle body. No clearance issues. Have had the head off since install, about 2500 miles. Had a head gasket issue. But all good.
  24. tooquick260
    I used the Dupli-color bed armor. Worked well. Did about 6 light coats over the primer. Primer was a base of etching primer, then 3 coats of filler primer during the forming of the new gauge hole. For adhesion the last sanding was done with 180 grit for a good profile. I hope it doesnt flake off. The patching on the cracked areas turned out OK. i would next time take more of the dash material out and used more of the expanding foam.
  25. tooquick260
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