240hoke

Now I dont know anything about this mini-baja competition you are talking about. But I want to pose a question? Why not set it up like a regualar car and use one mastercylinder for both front and rear? Is the rear master cylinder going to be hand actuated? Or what is the purpose of running two... Seems to me like weight is the issue here and 1 is lighter then two...

Just got done making my driveshaft loop this past weekend. Turned out to be a very easy and simple thing to do. Great for that added safety and to meet track requirements if you are running in the 12's. I bought a driveshafts loop kit from Jeg's It came with two pieces of steel bent in a "U" shape and two 90 degree pieces to bolt it to hte floor, along with all the proper mounting hardware. The kits run 24.99 dollars (as cheap as you can buy the raw materials for) Here is a picture: I cut the and modified this to fit the z and clear my exhaust, here are some pictures: I will post some other pictures later with it installed, I powdercoated it and mounted it up -- works great. I just thought I would pass this on as its easy, and cheap.

That I/C is made by "turbo xs" more then likely. If it isnt they make the exact same thing. All chinese made stuff. I highly recommend the i/c's Im running one on my car. I have a 24x12x4" core which I got for 180 bucks.... its not an rb... so i apoligize but i think it doesnt really matter which 6 you have in your car. I/c are goign to be mounted and have similar diminsions

Mike is it leaking out of the bottom fittings? They all do this as they are shipped, all you have to do is tighten them. YOu can replace the washers toooooo, but that wasnt nessecary for me. And btw these tanks are the biggest POS's ever. I owuld have never bought one had I actually known what I was doing when I did buy it. Ill be going FUELSAFE later and completely rebuilding the back floor.... but the money required for a good fuel cell is wayyy outta budget. Wish I would have just modified my stock tank.... -Austin

Dude I know you dont have a place to store all that junk. Send me the nitrous kit, fender mirors would be nice. At anyrate, jsut through all your stuff in a box, lemme know what shipping will be Ill pay for that

I *think* you mean the oil return for the turbo In such a case you should place it right below the turbo drain, above the oil line. You can find oil drain flanges which let you bolt a oil drain inlet to the side of the pan, try ATP turbo. You still will need to drop the pan to do this. The other alternative is finding or buying a turbo oil pan ready to go. Not to be an *** but in either case I think you need to do a little more research before you start. Maybe a book on turbocharging, Corky Bell's book is great. *edit: damn you guys are fast, two replies before i could type mine up!*

Awesome numbers thumper!!!! Im impressed! Will you be at SEZ?

I love hte lugguge cover!! That is a crazy conversion i like!

pparaska -- I had the opportunity to attend a lecture by Brian Green at my university (NCSU). I watched his films about String theory before the event and then went to the lecture. It was really cool to see his take on things and youre right He is awesome as wording and explaining things so that everyday people can undrstand the general principles. I enjoyed it.

Well the throw of the slave is going to be directly related to the throw of the pedal. I was talking about the throw of the slave. What I was also trying to say is that the only readily availible option for a smaller slave is the pathfinder slave (for a l motor, i did look that hard either) which is 11/16". There is a MUCH broader range of sizes availible when looking for masters. Jeg's and summit carry 3/4, 13/16,7/8,15/16. A slave will be alot cheaper ($16) but its not going to give you the same ajustability as the master since you can go to a larger size, however the master's require more modification and will run ~$70.

Something that might be very helpful to you is to make a quick spreadsheet in excel. using pascal's law and some basic algebra you can see what the change in Master cylinder or slave cylinder will have regarding the force required to engage the clutch and the maximum possible throw of the slave. I just did this when swapping clutchs, I am in the process of changing out both the slave and the master to get the correct throw I wanted. A pathfinder slave (11/16") will provide you with a little more throw then the stock setup. It helped my issue but wasnt enough. I have a 3/4" master cylinder on the way. this will make the pedal stiffer but get my engagement at the top of the pedal stroke. Hope this helps

this may be a little off topic, but it... ill go ahead nad mention it anyway. How would the cold start injector hole be for water injection?

I had mine resurfaced at Carquest (pepboys, autozone) some of those places have the machines to resurface flys. I got a Competition Clutches Stage 4, 6-puck sprung hub clutch for 420 through my local shop. You can get them direct for 400. It holds like no other but is not for the casual/daily driver, at least IMO. I will provide more details as I use it. Im still breaking it in right now. I talked to the owner and he said it would have NO issue holding 550+ crank hp. Heres the website: http://www.competitionclutch.com/main.phtml

This is enough infor for me, I may end up moving my sensor this weekend to the i/c pipe, and also weld on a water/alcohol injection bung

How inconsistent were you AFR's drax? This is VERY VERY interesting me me and you have got my attention. As i mentioned eariler i think heat soak is the problem in the manifold. I have been tuning with my LM1 and I have choppy afr readings. Perhaps this might be a contributing factor? Do you have charts of your afr readings? Here is a link to mine: http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/album658/logmap?full=1

Lookin good! I am envious Keep posting pics!!!!

Centerforce on average is about 100 dollars cheaper then the competition. But its not rated the same....

LOL, yeah..... i think ill correct that...my typing sometimes isnt the best Heres a thread for reading, and yeah its takes them a while to get hte point across but good info: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1860&highlight=%22water+injection%22

My centerforce: worked fine for a while and then gaveup, clutch started slipping like crazy and when i pulled it out I found a crack in the friction material: Worked fine for about a year though, I woudl say at 250-300hp.

I just noticed in the post that many of you are looking at the AFR's when tuning with water injections. This can be very very very deceiving unless you have your wideband calibrated to read the correct stoic. Lots of information on this over on the innovate forums. It is better to tune with lambda, that way it doesn matter how the water/methanol/alcohol has effected your the stoic of the fuel.

Bernardd -- I would be interesting in taking a look at your plans... could you please email them to twiistedsixx@gmail.com ?

I was curious about this too. I have mine mounted in the cold start vavle hole like alot of people. I think the major difference in the location, even if it is only a couple inches is the amount of heatsoak your gonna get in the manifold. This isnt such a big deal when driving around. But after sitting for a bit, waiting in the staging lane etc, you are going to see higher temps then if it was in the i/c pipe. Whether or not this really matters I dunno, thats what im asking. Seems to me the most isolated the sensor can be relative to manifold temperature would be the best. Thats why I always wondered if the i/c pipe was better Another question, just how well isolated is the sensor element? Is my concern even an issue?

And 240z thats a nice DP you got there. I think its more then likely is too clsoe for the wideband sensor though. I would suggest not worrying about cutting up that nice piece. You can get a new bung and plug from any exhaust shop, my local shop sells good bungs for 4 bucks and nice allen type plugs for 3. I suggest welding the bung into your exhaust system downstram and plugging up your pipe. Just my 2 cents.

Guys I jsut wanted to add a little bit of my expirence here from the last week. In the Inovate manual if im not mistaken they prefer it to be as far away as possible without the risk of excess air coming in for the tail pipe. The reason for running it so close to the motor on most cars is the fact that most cars have cats. I called innovate tech support when I was trying to figure out why my o2 readings were choppy. The tech suggested that I try moving the o2 farther away then I had it. He said on his supra for best results they moved it 3' away. The manual suggests 2-3 feet from the rear of the car if it doesnt have cats if im not mistken, ill double check when i get home. I ended up remounting mine in the rear of the car at the front of the differential. It did seem to give me more stable o2 reading. I like the location better so there it will stay. I will say that I recived no error messages running it where it was in the first picture I posted so it should have been okay.

MY oil return is 5/8"..... Rubber hose deteriorates rather quickly at that spot, gets soft in no time. ATP sells some nice 5/8" silicon oil return line. Pricey but all you need is a foot of it.