240hoke

I wouldnt buy anything other then a bladder type cell, I really want to get a fuel safe unit when I have the funds...prolly be a while. The Plastic units are JUNK...period. Id rather mod the stock tank then anything else, really wish I would have just done that in the first place...might end up doing it anyway just have to weld a floor back in

Those were all bought from vintage connections. They are basically identical to the stock connector designs. The no locking ones will mate up to the factory connectors. I choose to replace the entire connector shells with locking ones. If you starting from scratch any connectors will do though, I just havent found any other nice ones that come with both large and small spades sizes.

Here is an example of some of the products you can get from waytek. I like to keep the chassis functions separate from the engine due to constant changes. I built my EMS wiring harness from scratch using waytek components, used Ez wiring for the chassis - Fuse panels ($4) - Relays ($4.40) -Relay Mounts ($.68) Chassis Wiring (Pre Clean Up) Detachable dash harness: Anyway its not hard, just takes some planning and time. Electrons are simple you just gotta just in.

I have rewired a couple Z, and have personally used the painless and the EZ wiring kits on my 240z. I feel like I have learned alot in doing the installed and I finally got it right this last time around. Feel free to shoot me and email, I should be able to help with just about any questions. If you dont know what your are doing I would highly suggest the painless kit as they have good instructions and diagrams as well as customer support. Doing wiring right is a MUST and a poorly rewired car is worse then hacked up factory electronics, especially when you finish and havent made notes or have any schematics. Check out: www.vintageconnections.com <--- Factory conects (Replace ALL connectors and spades, period no soldering....) www.waytekwire.com <--- (great place for relays, relay mounts, and wiring tools) You can email me at: twiistedsixx@gmail.com

When I made my engine mount for my VQ 240z, I really only had one choice due to the size of hte tranmission. I Put the transmission as high as I could which was 1/4" from the top of the tunnel and I centered it which probably gave me about a 1/4" on each side of the tranmission at the critical places like sensors. I used lasers to attempt to align everything but it wasnt much use. I ended up just centering everything and it worked out really well, I dont have excess driveshaft angles...I havent had a chance to give my car a good wringing out (around 200 miles so far), and havent had it into the triple digit (I dont think anyway, speedo would help) Anyway I agree with the close is close enough theory.

edit.

LOL, funny thing is this is real and it actually works...

She not on my datsun, but shes with Datsun parts! Min-Pin Dachshund Mix:

I honestly don't think that the roundness has much to do with it, its how the air enters and is dispersed, check out the overall idea of Monzter's plenum, and most aftermarket designs, they tend to lend towards a angled TB and a taper plenum for a reason. Im not knocking your design, and Im not saying it wont work (because it will) Im just throwing stuff out there. Im my opinion though it looks like you LOST intake volume and flow over stock..not that the factory intake does it the best possible but it is designed for even distribution..large plenum, centered tb inlet and tapered camber. It has velocity stacks and smooth entry into the chamber..the main problem seems to be the volume and youve cut that down prolly by 1/2..............your going to be FI too so this isnt going to matter as much as a N/A motor though. Will you be providing N/A dyno comparisons or FI? Anyway when I go about it Ill prolly be taking the ported AE lower plenum route. But on that note did you make any more flanges for the intake? Supercharger is going to be sick for sure, I love that setup. Im halfway tossing around the idea of doing a supercharger on mine instead of turbo as Im not really shooting for that much power.

Looks like the Kinetix Piece, which I believe doesnt give very good results over the plenum spacers / larger top plenums. The plenum volume looks pretty small and I would worry about the equal distribution of air between the six cylinders. Looks pretty slick though great craftsmanship, ill be curiously awaiting the results.

Whoa who told you the plenum breaths well? Its one of the worst parts of the motor....

Im assuming your are going to change out to a monoball on top to provide the needed flex? 1.25" would definitely allow you to clear the motor, might just need to do a tad bit of trimming.

The movie far exceeded my expectation for terribleness...it was off the scale. I hope the directors were making it absolutely ridiculous on purpose, I dont see how it could be any other way, it was really a comedy more then a action movie. The only good part is the girls, especially the one in the gold shorts Anyway HUGE HUGE disappointment after Tokyo Drift which I actually thought was a decent movie.

I think the rectangular stock tail lights compliment the retangular rear end of the z really well, and I love the euro lights... I think they really set them the car off. It is a rare occurrence in my opinion to see anything that looks right thats a retrofit. I think alot of this has to do with the cheesy tail light panels most people make...flat plate. I think a molded mesh black screen with flushed in round lights like on a ferarri 360 would look hot...but hard to do. That black car is one of the best Ive seen. I also like Dan Juday's but his are rectangular and fit his extreme body mods.

Making a brake flare and forgetting to put the nut on it. *Facepalm*

It may very well have just been pedal feel. Whatever it was it was too mushy to be anywhere near acceptable for me. I was using the 280z booster, I just used the rod that came with it and adjusted it so it barely contacted the MC it was bolted on.... I switched to a rebuilt 240z unit which is much smaller, and I thought would make the pedal feel better anyway. Once again I double checked the rod and whatnot. I also slightly preloaded the pedal which may have also helped. Other then that I just bleed everything like normal and bam they felt nice.

haha Prox beat me too it!

If its a one off part for your car you'd be much better off just cutting it out yourself. You can print off the pattern on a piece of paper to scale (pdf is good for this) and then spray glue it to the piece of metal and go to work. Smaller hole saw first then a die grinder, dremel, file, whatever. You'd be surprised how close you can get it with a little elbow grease...especially if its just 18ga. Metal is only a couple cents so if you mess up once or twice who cares.

I am not disputing a metal headgasket is harsh on your pistons when you detonate....but I don't think It makes that big of a difference. I busted three pistons running felpro gaskets, never once did I blow a gasket, ever.

Hey Phil, Sweet job on the swap, good to see somebody putting the z31 trans in there I had a lot of people ask about it but didn't have any answers. Your definitely not stepping on my toes making them. I didn't plan on making any more. Although with that being said if I have five people that will commit to buying them I will do another run no problem. I just had demand severely taper off and didn't sell any for a couple months...actually traded parts for my last one to get it gone! I have been thinking about making one that does not require machining. It would involve a single 360deg steel plate and a flywheel spacer. And also a z33 adapter to go to 6psd... but I haven't done any measurements yet, I do have a spare z33 trans laying around though. I know there is nothing to stop people from doing it, but I do have a problem with people copying somebody's part. Taking the measurements and designing it yourself is one thing, but having a machine shop copy a part is another thing! That just my opinion though and I would personally never do it I think its a bad as stealing.

Yea as far as I understand the ECU modulates the throttle plate acting like a air bypass valve?

Werd thats the kind of stuff I want to hear!! Thanks for the tip, Ill be trying that next time I am home.

Hey Guys, I have recently been trying to figure out a problem with the vq and it is about to drive me up the wall. Ill try and be as through as I can describing what is happening. Background: The car ran great when I first completed the swap for about 200 miles. It could be a coincidence, but this all started when I tried to start the car when the battery voltage was low and it went into throttle body fail safe. Once I got the codes cleared and charged the battery the car started and ran great however when I took it for a drive it would die when I came to a stop... When It happens and what it does: - The car starts up and idles smooth when cold with a idle of a little over 1,000 rpm. - If I let the car warm up in the driveway it 50% or the time after it warms up it will all of a sudden start to sputter and after coughing a few times and trying to save itself it stalls out. - Once its warm if I rev it up over 3K or so and then take my foot off completely it will drop past 600 rpm and stall out. If I pat the throttle a bit right before it dies it will recover and idle great (about 800rpm). - If I take the car for a drive it runs and drives great, however when I come to a stop or coast with the clutch in it stalls. -Whenever I restart the car 80% of the time it starts up and idles fine, the other times it coughs and sputters unless I give it throttle. - Every once in a while Ill take the car for a drive and it works PERFECT no hint of the problem at all What I have done: - Replaced the battery - Ran an ODBII code check. Nothing shows up pertinent to the issue. It throws plenty of codes but all related to things that I have unhooked, such as the a/c and power steering, chassis CAN line etc. - Tried to preform "idle air relearn" manually by pedal input several times. Cant confirm if it worked due to no check engine light. -Tried adjusting the fuel pressure: It was originally at 41psi which I changed to the factory 51 psi. Car ran really rich and problem was not affected so I lowered the fuel pressure to around 37. I have modified the fuel rails for a return system so my buddy recommended that I needed to only run 35-40. No change in problem. - Replaced the MAF with a good known working unit from my personal 350z. Didn't make any difference. - Watched fuel pressure when the car stalls as it is sitting in my driveway. It stays ROCK SOLID. - The TB , MAF, Intake, engine inside of the intake tract is clean as a whistle...motor has 500 or 600 miles on it total. Thing I am going to try: - Swap out the throttle body for a known good unit - Prefer Idle air Relearn using a Nissan Consult I am kinda frustrated with the issue out of my expertise with new motors. I have talked with a reputable 350z shop that has experience with modified vq's and ems, and they had never had the issue or any advice. I was told they had no issues with a factory setup unless it threw a code. I have also talked with my buddy who is a nissan master tech about the issue as well and he has no advice to offer either. Really hoping somebody here can help!!!

Turbine sizing makes a HUGE difference in the sound. With the tiny stock turbo its pretty restrictive and with a single muffler it sounds really good, or even just a straight pipe. When you start opening up the turbine then it gets ALOT louder. I have a .82 stage 5 t3 turbine on my turbo and I had to add in a resonator to knock down the noise and drone.