240hoke

Hey Guys, I bought some OEM heater control cables for my 240z from MSA. All but one have a curled circular end (like a spring). I was curious is anybody had a picture of this type of cable installed. All of my original ones have straight ends that go into screw type clamps... Another thing I need a couple of the sleeve clamps, if anybody has a part car laying around or something please let me know. Thanks guys

http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Service:Index All the manuals you could ever want for free and well organized, Myron is right everything is spelled out in pretty pictures for you.

Is it faster then a stock nissan one in good shape? Or is is faster then the gunked up and corroded nissan gear drives? Not trying to be a smart ass Im posing a valid question.

I wanted to make a comment here and Ill possibly make a thread pertaining to the issue. But I don't understand why people switch out for the Honda motor. Ive have both and have taken them apart and compared the two. IMO the nissan unit from the 70's is larger and looks to be made just as good is not better really. I found the reason that mine did work was corrosion on the wiper driveshaft of the motor. The armature and brushes were all in great shape. They are easy to take apart if you knock the driveshaft out, clean it with fine grit sand paper, lube it up and reassemble it is good as new. My wipers arent as fast as a new car but Im happy with them.

Before (Dont be fooled by the overall nice appearance like I was, she was on her cancer deathbed): After:

The help door hinge bushing assortment worked perfect for me on my 72. I used the Chrysler ones and drill it out to fit after I press then in....better then new and a total cost of I think $3.88.

What are you drifting in now?

Very cool project, cant wait to see the outcome. Last time I talked with Alex, he said they were doing it because its what they know and what they have...in addition to being about 1000 times easier to work on in the car....which I completely understand. However I have to disagree with ruggedbert. The sr20 can make more power then what vq? Sure a built Sr can make more then a stock vq...a B18 can make more then a LS1. But build em both, and then whats yer result? The vq will always make more torque, will always have more midrange, and I would argue the potential to make more power....and depending on the turbo setup the weight difference isnt going to be that substantial...I have a feeling I know where the VQ is going anyway..... BTW alex whats the weight comparo between the fully loaded SR20 (turbo, intercooler, piping etc) compared to the NA vq? Just curious.

I primered my car without a booth in the garage and it was one of the worst mistakes I made. I had to pull EVERYTHING out of the garage and scrub it down from top to bottom to get everything out, and there is still some residue on things. Ruined a good bit of stuff. I spray conventional though.....if your spraying without a booth better at least be HVLP.

Hey, I just built a booth to spray my wheels. I used a light 2x4 frame and moisture barrier plastic you can get from any building material store, the plastic comes in a variety of sizes (8', 10' and 12') and thicknesses..its alot more durable then the painters drops. Worked awesome for me and was easy to build.

Sweet, thanks for the info. Got plenty left.

2001-2003 bmw 330i

I jsut saw this thread...looks really nice! I must say you picked a good color

I am 99% sure that they fit. Although I have not tested it, I think you are right that the bell housing is the main different. If you would like to purchase one, I will give you a full refund if it doesnt work!

Hey Guys, Just thought I would bring this back from the dead and put up some installation pictures. I took some pictures while I was shortening the shackle for a guy doing a vq swap in a 240sx. He was an awesome guy and sent his original shifter to me for mock up on my spare transmission. First thing is to pull the shifter linkage off the transmission, its super easy..just need to knock out a roll pin. Next you cut the center section out completely. I start by chopping the ends off with a sawzall and then grind the remaining weld/material down flush. One the shaft is ground completely off the center of the transmission side can be seen, there is also a hole on the shifter side. This can be used to make sure the two brackets are aligned before welding, as shown below Weld 'er up! Here is the shortened shaft beside the factory one to give an idea on the distance the shifter gets shortened. The factory mount is secured with 4 bolts to the transmission. When bolting on the new mount reuse the top two bolts, and use one of the lower ones to connect the shifter to the linkage. I still have a good many of these available. The price is now 200 dollars shipped for the bracket, and an additional 20 dollars if you want me to do the welding.

Holy Smokes

You can do the same things with a cheap proximity sensor on the DS flange bolts, provided you use a aftermarket tach. I did this but was pretty stupid in underestimating the movement of the diff even when double poly mounted. Im making a new one to bolt to the diff and move with it next time Im under there. All you need is a 5v output, I think that sounds like a big PITA. You need alot more wiring to run the dash too.

http://www.allensfasteners.com

Hella E-Code H4 conversion- best lights you can buy IMO: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=739 They even make the conversion socket if you dont like wiring: http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=120 That place is great to deal with Ive bought several sets form them for various cars. My Ecode lights with yellowstars on my datsun are ridiculously bright.

No progress thus far. I havent been back home to work on the car since I originally posted. The semester is finally almost over and Ill be able to get back to it in a week and a half. Ill update when I figure it out.

You can do that but its pretty easy to just wire up the engine harness as I have mentioned several time, just trace the power requirements from the shop manual and the BCM wires...done, its not any harder then anything else you just have to have the immobilizer system for it to work (to my understanding).

That looks really nice! I would love to do something like this with my car if/when I repaint it.

Haha Sorry, Fixed. I completely missed that...just looked up and was reading I was really confused.

The painless and ezwire kits use the same color wire for many functions, mainly the lights if i recall. I do not like the 'EZ wire' wire though, they use mainly the same OD and use different amounts of copper strands. Thats one of the main reasons i like Painful better. As for wire sizes, I havent found to much thats inappropriate on the Painless setup except the fuel pump wire. Im sure I dont need to say this to you but if you look at modern cars they run VERY small wire for almost all functions mostly 20-22 gauge from what I can tell except for the power distribution switches/panels. Relays arent going to help keep you from burning down your car, just switchs. Relays allow you to use a negative signal from the switch to flip positive power to an accessory, thus only using grounding signals of very very small amperage from through swtiches; cutting down on wire size, fuses, and live wires. I like the idea of having separate circuits for everything all be it overkill, It would make tracing down problems much easier! I used them from HL (high/low), Horn, Fan, and Fuel pump, and then as computer controlled switches for my efi (which i probably should have used compact relays....which I would recommend for smaller circuits (anything other then horn and headlight). Take a look at this table, 'maximum amps for chassis wiring': http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm Chassis wire is supposed to be non bundled and exposed to the air for convection cooling, however its still conservation and then adding a further factor of safety you can see 18-20 gauge is enough for most car apps.

Sorry but I would still ask why! Although it can be done no problem it would take a lot of time to make a panel as clean as painless, and labeled and colored wires with a schematic is invaluable. I say start with painless and modifiy from there while you install. That just IMO and I wont mention it again....I think your shooting yourself in the foot though. Im confused about what you would look at a circuit and determine that. You can wire circuits however you want, most relays connection and tripped with a ground, makes things easier.