240hoke

OKay this is kinda off topic but on the EcoCar thing. Yea its back by big money but to me its kinda lame. I could be way off base here as I am not really involved with it but you are basically just mounting components in the car. The motor "pack" is pre made and ready to go, the battery packs and controllers are "idiot proof" and ready to mount. It seems like more a logistics thing, making everything work in the car....I am building the analyizing/designing an intercooler option as a final project for my Automotive Engineering elective so thats how I got involved. In Formula SAE and Baja the students design and build chassis/suspension/engine setups from scratch....its truely impressive the amount of work they put into the cars, I know I dont have time to do what they do. My room mates have always been big into it.

I have a shimmy from a bent inner tie rod...its pretty bad though. Anyway I just ordered a set from rock auto.... 9.99 each. Hope they are the right ones!

Im about to start intercooler design for our EcoCar here, should be fun.

Hahaha Ride a cafe 500cc two stroke across the country....that I would give you props for.

Ugghhhh If you were closer I would buy it from you right now!

Ill give you some good advice that you should take to heart: STUDY YOUR CALCULUS do not just try and pass the tests, do everything in your power to make sure you understand everything, the theory behind it and all....dont just "follow the formula" This is particularly true for differential equations, Laplace transforms, and S-domain theory. And last but not least take great notes, not only when your are in class but one thing that has helped me is to write procedures as you are doing homework so you have a studyguide and example problem to go by years down the road. Im in my senior year and in classes like Controls the math gets wicked.

I think jeffer949 has it right, honing would be your best bet. There were no instructions that came with the pulley to my recollection thoiugh...I bought it trough TEP so it could have been lost in the mix. I dont remember any difficulty installing the pulley at all. I usually slid it on and if i couldn't wiggle it on by hand I would tap it on with a rubber mallet. It was removed with a puller. DO NOT HEAT THE PULLEY - The magnets will be destroyed and they you get to do it all over again.

Dang that sucks should be able to TIG her back, if not brazing it might be easier/safer with the thin cooling fins. I still think the crank pulley being cracked is crazy. I dont remember having to knock it on or anything. I also going to go out on a limb here and say that it probably wouldn't affect anything either. Since its a two piece pulley it isn't going to propagate through...I could be sketchy though. Boring it out should be cake, just get a good measurement off of your crank snout and machine it 1 or 2 thou over.

You need basically perfect tuning to run 20psi reliably on the factory pistons. One mess up and your ring lands are toast. So if you do run 20psi do it on the dyno and ramp up slowly.

Im interested in what ME's here do too. Im graduating in December with a BS in ME from NCSU. Im like Tony in that I really, really dont want a desk job...hoping I can find something in Racing since I live in Mooresville. My dream of course is, like everybody else, I want to a start a shop that builds aftermarket parts for cars. I have already completed a co-op with a local Robotics company that builds robotic end effectors, so I got an introduction into robotics and manufacturing. Touring some of the plants and getting a first hand look at everything involved in manufacturing cars was amazing, but not something that really grabbed my interest. Anyway my point is I'm really up in the air as far as what I want to do: Continue my education and get my MS, Try and find a job in Racing or the automotive field, or just give something different a try like manufacturing or .....?

I can do it if its reasonable pm me.

Good lord your engine sounds good...I havent heard a N/A L sound that good before. I used to the muffled roar of a l28et. Congrats on the numbers I am always impressed by your work!

I think you miss understood my post or I wasnt clear enough. The cables from MSA are factory Nissan parts, and they only have a limited number of them. They are listed on the specials page. The factory ones from MSA DO have the curly ends on them. I believe the ones in my car do not, they have zbar bends on the control side and they slide into screw clamps on the heater core side. But I need to pull it apart its been a while since I messed with it.

I got my cables from MSA yesterday. I dont think they are right, mine dont have a curlyque on the ends of them like these do. Anyway they are original nissan parts though, Ill just have to pull everything apart an see. But anyway with that being said these shouild be VERY easy to reproduce. Ill take some measurements of the wire and sleeve and see if I can find the same stuff. I already have a z'bar bender from my model airplane days to finish the ends with.

Pretty sure your gonna need a 16" wheel to clear, so no a 14" stock spare is not going to cut it. Pack some fix-a-flat

No the tube issue is pretty much purely about heat transfer. For the same area shorter tubes are more efficient. The bare bones basics of it is that heat transfer is driven by the difference in temperatures. I really dont feel like getting out my heat transfer book to prove it right now with fancy math and pictures Ducting the spoiler and between the i/c and radiator will help but arent going to do as much as duct work in front of the i/c. You need to "catch" the air thats in front of it.

I finally got everything back together on my car. I ended up replacing the 280z booster with a remanufactured 240z unit and thoroughly bleed the system. It is a night and day difference, the pedal is much firmer and feels like it should! It seems crazy to me and I dont understand how a bad booster could make the pedal spongy but it did....maybe it was just the size I dunno. Regardless Im happy

I think its safe to say that there is no way possible to use the stock cats. he factory manifold have to be sustanstially shortened and need 90's welded onto them to clear the fire wall.....and then its a tight fit with 2.5" tubing. I think youll end up have to run a single cat in the transmission tunnel. When you get the motor in the car youll see how precious little room there is in the tunnel/firewall area. Here is a picture of the underneight of my car with the new muffler....it is at ride height.

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I just ordered all new ones from Zcarparts.com they said one was on backorder but should ship out soon. That doesnt mean squat from MSA I might see then in 2 years, but you can order then off their site, they have two of them availible for sure. They are 20 bucks each. So 80 bucks got me all new stuff, well worth it in my opinion.

With 30K dollars I would buy a e46 m3 and put a turbo kit on it and call it a day, 500-700hp, smooth, reliable, drivable, and sleeper. As much as I love my Z Honestly if I could have my money back that what I would probably do just because I could drive it and enjoy it everyday. My Z is slowly getting there though another couple months and she will be a good DD I hope. Trouble is one accident and kiss your 5 years of work good bye, cant replace 30 year old sheet metal, blood, sweat, and tears like you can a vette, viper, or bimmer.

This post is funny. It was a good idea anyway.

Also when I am butt welding I start with low amperage and get a little filler built up and then push the filler over and increase the amperage this gets the pool going without blowing the metal out. You have to keep pushing and building on the pool and not getting ahead of yourself.

Im my opinion the worst part about your car is the wheels. There is almost nothing worse then a wide(er)body car with poorly fitted wheels, they are set way to far inward. The next I would do is lower the car, and then clean up your grill area. Paint the front area all flat black including the hood springs, add a low key grill and get ride of that rubber tube...or at least run its straight across the frame rail. Heres mine, and dont say change the motor to a v8 : Right now I am thinking, euro chrome bumpers and paint the flares body color to clean it up and make it more classy.

Ill add my little big of advice. You sound like you are focusing way to much on the little details. To get a perfect weld yes everything has to be just right...but you shouldnt have trouble welding something together if your torch is a little high or now exactly straight etc. Hell even a dirty tungsten you can weld with reasonably if you had too. I like to have absolute conntrol over the amperage and I set my welder for WAY over the required amount for the work im doing. That way I only have to move my pedal half way and I can easily add a little or take a little away. Dont focus on the tecnique, focus on the weld. You know what a good weld is supposed to look like so as your welding pay attention to what your doing. If the weld starts to flatten out and divit get off the pedal a bit and put some filler in, if your weld starts beading up add a little more amperage. Make sure your comfortable and relaxed when you weld and above all GO SLOW. You should consciously build a pool, tap the filler, and push forward. If your having trouble with the tungsten check your gas make sure you have enough post flow. I run mine at about 8 seconds. Hang in there though, if it was easy everybody would do it. Steel for me is the hardest to make look good. Aluminum looks awesome if you do it right there really isnt an in between like with steel. Ive been tig welding for a couple years now and I feel like I can make a decent weld, but it takes years of welding as a career to make some the welds you see...for most people at least. Last but not least if you feeling like your steel butt welding isnt working very well, try a couple pieces of aluminum and then see how you feel lol!