240hoke

I would agree with derek on the 250, it would be nice to have the extra room. But I will also add I havent not been able to weld anything with my 180SD. I just stopped in MWS on friday and they had a used Dynasty 200 for 2 g's, did not include a water cooler, but had the badass torch with thumb control built in. It was used by a local NASCAR team and was in really good shape.

Forrest -- It sounds like we very well may have the same problem, I have a 1/3 pedal of mush travel and then it feels normal. I have the same brackets as you, my calipers are spaced out with the two washers AZC supplied, never liked that much at all...but anyway I didnt get much time to work on the brakes this weekend since I was messing with the engine but I did get started. I took the plunger out and the reaction disc was in place to my dismay. I went ahead and removed the master and the 280z booster. I got a pile of parts with the 72 240z I just bought and to my delight there was a rebuilt 240z booster in with them. Im going to trow it in there, and add a 2psi residual valve in the front line for safe measures...while Im at it Im also going to add some service loops in at the MC to make all this easier next time I need to mess with the booster or anything. Hopefully next weekend Ill get it all back together and have some results.

Good news, congratulations!! Hopefully I can make it out to one of these track events soon and see it!

I dont think that his price is too far out of line at all, I think his is prolly worth closer to the 18-20K range though based on those pictures...i agree on the spray paint but thats easy to fix and cheap since they are already clean. Its really hard to judge a car from a few pictures though, if the car has been stripped top and bottom, inside and out and completely restored it is definitly worth what he is asking. I think we are going to start seeing really nicely restored original Z's going for 20-30K soon and maybe more. These cars are getting harder and harder to find everyday,they are a classic that everybody seems to relate to. I know when I get out of school and have the money Im going to snatch up the best original 240z I can find.

Ive seen this car on several BMW forums and the fabrication is amazing, I cant believe how that engine fits in there. However sadly IMHO the wheels and body kit absolutly RUIN the car. I saw all the engine and build pictures first and then I got to the final picture you posted and almost cried.

I think if you do a vq swap for handling alone you would definitely be misdirected. IMO thats not the reason for the swap, but a perk... you can set up any car to handle great no matter the weight placement (to a certain extent) just take a look at Porsche! The reason for swap for me was a new reliable engine that makes great power in stock form and has alot of aftermarket and potential. You are starting off with the same power as a most fully built L28's and it starts right up in the cold or hot and is smooth, and you can beat on it without a worry. Through a turbo into the mix and it would really get fun.

I should have clarified, its not an ADDITIONAL overdrive.

You guys also have to keep in mine these vq's use a close ratio 6 speed....the 6th is NOT a overdrive. It can take advantage of using the taller gear. i am running 3.7's and it is the shortest gear i would go thats for sure.

Alright guys, they are ready to go out! Here is a pic of the final product: I am making a new thread in the venders forum you can access it here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=986655#post986655

Yup if it fits stock it should fit mine, the mounting and bucket dimensions are identical....6th gear lockout works perfect as well. Although I have to wonder why anybody would want a short shifter, it already has such small throws. Shipping ETA is tomorrow!

Yup I am using a Nismo shift knob. Its actually the cheapest good quality one I could find and it looks and feels nice. I would prefer the factory one but they seem to be hard to come by.

Hey Guys, Just a quick update....I will have them in my hands on Tuesday. So I should be able to ship out Wednesday, I post some pictures when they arrive.

LMAO that is frekking halarious. I wonder what I said on the way home from getting my wisdom teeth out...I don't remember anything except walking to the car and then waking up on the couch later in the afternoon.

Just call them Im sure they will be able to help you out..I think they have and adapter for almost anything.

Drmiller - Master cylinder definitely works, car is drivable just mushy pedal at the top. I can say with 99.9% confidence there is no air in the system. Aziza Z - I bought the universal one and then I got the Tilton adapters for use with my reservoirs...its really works awesome.

It is the way Ive run my lines..my front line actually goes straight down through the fender. While Ive got the thing out I should prolly add some "service loops" in to prevent having to remove the lines though. I want to add to this thread that Motive brake bleeders are AWESOME before I would cringe at having to rebleed the system...but its cake now to do myself and i can totally flush the system in no time. http://store.motiveproducts.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=motive&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=210323512&Count2=127463936

Thanks for all the input guys I have a lot of things to mess with now when I get back to the car this weekend... Timz - As far as bleeding the master I will definitely give it a shot Ill have to rebleed everything to check the reaction disc anyway. I bleed the old master before I swapped it just ot be sure and it didnt change anything so i didnt bother with the new one with the way Im bleeding it is shoudl flush the air out. Cygnusx1 - Thats definitly something to think about Im going to check this out for sure, it woudl be a easy fix to throw a residual valve in line... Right now this looks like my plan: - Bleed master to double check - Inspect reaction disc / rebleed - Check for piston retraction Hopefully a combo of one or all of those will fix it...ill update as soon as i figure it out.

Trouble is the only time she will be wearing it is when she is on a date with another guy! I dunno what kind of relationship you have with her but I agree with Dat260, definitly a couple or husband/wife type thing. Ive been with my girlfriend for 5 years and I dont think I would get that lol...of course I bought her hella e code headlights for her big xmas present so I might be a little different. Shes definitly cute as well.

Myron - Good to hear, I really hope it is as simple as that ill be really happy..first thing im gonna check when I get back. Stony, yes, I bench bleed the master and then I was using a pressure bleeder to bleed the system which should take care of the air in the master.

I would suggest adding some heavy duty casters to the bottom as well..especially for a welding table its nice to be able to get to all side of it when you need to.

cygnusx1 -- Thanks for the info, I hope I can get mine to feel like that. I think Id rather have stock brakes and a stiff pedal then big brakes and a mushy pedal. I have Tilton reservoirs on the MC and I have the lines going to the correct place. I highly doubt its the MC because there is no fluid leakage and no change in height between the two reservoirs. No bleeder problems they are all in the right spot, I laugh everytime I hear about somebody doing that I have a feeling it has something to do with the booster, Ill play with it next time I am home.

Looking good!! I dont think its strong enough though

Wow, Id never heard of that, I even searched for quiet a while....I guess those sticky's have a purpose Its definitly something I need to check but It sounds like there is no brakes and then full brakes. Mine are definitely not like that the first half the the pedal travel you can feel pressure and the car starts to slow down and then it almost kinda ramps up at the end as more pressure is applied. Definitely not a on-off situation...

Hey Guys, I am been plagued by a spongy brake pedal ever since I built my car. Ive tried just about everything to get rid of it so I hoping some of yall can help. My setup: - 280z Brake Booster - 15/16" 280zx master cylinder - All new brake lines (no leaks) - Wilwood 2psi residual value in the rear circuit - Wilwood proportioning valve in rear circuit - Corvette C4 Single Piston brake calipers up front w/carbotech panther xp pads - AZC Wilwood 4 piston setup out back w/standard pads - SS brake lines all around I have bleed multiple bottles of brake fluid through the lines with my Motive Pressure bleeder and I am 99% confident there is no air in the system. Ive gone along the lines and thumped them with a mallet along with the calipers as well while I was bleeding. I bleed the rear calipers from both inner and outter ports.....no air. I took my master cylinder off and there was a tad bit of brake fluid behind it so I swapped it out for a freshly rebuilt one. I triple checked the pushrod length and Bench bled it before mounting and again bled the entire system...no change. The only thing I am down too is my brake booster, but I wasnt sure how this could mess with it too much. It is a rebuilt unit that I got for my 260z 5 years ago or so. What happens is the pedal goes down about half way to the floor before doing much of anything and never feels firm...I cannot press the pedal to the floor. A spongy brake pedal is the one thing I HATE the most in a car. I dont know what its supposed to feel like stock, since its been 6 years since I drove one with stock brakes, but I know it doesnt feel right to me. I prefer a super firm pedal from the top of the travel. Anyway I fell like Ive kinda exhausted my knowledge on the matter, please help!!!

He has also posted a few times in the v6 board. It would be a cool car if somebody cleaned it up a bit...