240hoke

Yea I wasn't saying you needed to change for sure just wanted to make sure you did some clacs, I was thinking it was taller then what you have. I believe my first I/C core was 24x12x4" Although one issue is that taller is really better for a horizontal core i/c (with proper end tanks). Most of the heat transfer takes places in the first couple inches of the tube, due to the higher temperature difference between the charge air and the outside air. This is the main reason why vertical flow cores are technically more efficient, shorter passages and more of them. Will this make a noticeable difference on a mild street car...probably not However regardless of what core your choose when designing your setup keep in mind how you are going to duct air to the i/c. You really need some type of duct on the i/c to prevent air from "spilling" around it.

Thanks for the kind words Brad...Glad you are happy with! PanzerAce: I can measure for you this weekend

Im am going to have to completely agree with Jon on this one. It would have been SOOO EASY to put the strut and heim joints in double shear and it would not have cost significantly more either...especially since everything is being CNC'd to begin with..I would expect it in a 8K dollar suspension setup. What Im even more curious in though Is how they came about there designs and how they have been tested besides "they work". I like there stuff and I think its great that they are producing Parts for our z's but I have defintly been pretty wary of there billet aluminum controls arms. I would like to see some FEA on those LCA's vs. Stock. I would dare to venture a guess that it isnt much stronger then stock...if at all. Most of the load on the LCAs is a compressive force from the wheels inward.

I would think twice and do some calculation before I installed that core in my car. Unless your just going for the bling factor. You dont need to cut to go single sided either. Charge from the turbo goes under the radiator support and the intercooler outlet comes through the fresh air vent hole. Only down side is the air intake has to be in the engine bay(for a 3" tube) but you can build a box and duct air to it from the a/c evap hole. here is what im talking about. just remember most i/c setups are wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy to big for the application and will not be as good as you think. Take a look at Monzter's CFD stuff he found out some interesting thing about i/c end tank designs. Tight radius 90's on stock end tank and a huge i/c is not gong to be the best route. And Im guilty of going that route and it did work, just wish I would have taken some quantitative data when I switched setups.

Just stick with a single sided setup and go through the radiator support or under it like I did. This has ALOT of benefits: - less piping >> thus less charge volume >>faster response - less time inside the engine bay >> less heat - less clutter in the engine bay >> easier to work on - You can keep the mechanical fan >> dunno why you would want to? - Easier routing of a more efficient vertical core and please for the love of whoever you pray too dont cut your hood!

mmm, I dont think your straight line traction will improve much. I think its annoying just driving around a tight clsd on the street. If I swap in another diff it will be a VLSD. IF you clean it really good nad take it apart I might could do it for ya.

Hahahaha I never expected a quick turn about Im actually happy Ive sold 6 just wanted to bump the post ....a shortened shifter for a vq swap is a pretty specialized part, hince the sarcasm in my post.

Why?

No more interested in these ?? Ive still got 11 left! IF you dont have a vq they make nice paperweights too! Or you could Impress the wife/mistress with a cool xmas tree ornament, yard art, or abstract artwork for the wall!

All this is cool but I think it might be going a little too far. Are yall referring to a particular kit that allows you to do this or thinking about retrofitting or making your own setup? Either way I think it will get pretty complicated, and may require a different motor and a few sensors. I know in my 350z you have to reset the motor travel each time you mess with it or the window. But it also has frameless doors and the windows moves a bit when you open and close the door i also rolls the windows down if you hold hte unlock button for a period as most new cars do. All this is controlled by the BCM. The SPAL motor has no circuitry to stop the motor when you get to the top or bottom it tries to keep on going you have to just let off the button. I imagine a switch could be made that senses the change in amperage when the motor is stalled and cutts of a relay....or maybe this is already available? Either way IMHO I think at that point especially with keyless entry you've got a system that will potentially cause a big headache down the road unless installed very well.

No I think that would be a badddddd idea. Im going to run rubber OEM style boot, I just haven't installed them yet.

yes

Most bar and plate intercoolers are painted to begin with....at least most Ebay ones are. They are brazed together so if they arent painted they look horrible. They do a good job with it though and it usually not noticeable....but take a close look at your core and I bet its already got a pretty thick coat of paint on it. My treadstone one definitely did. Most of it burned off when I powedercoated the tank and I brushed the rest off and put a light coat of flat black on the core. If your doing it to hide it check out my install above, you basically could see it unless light was shining directly on hte front of hte car.....except the blinging t-bolts.

Lol Im bogged down with school work this weekend but spring break is week after next so I should be able to finish up the project. Ill be pulling hte dash and doors to install wire boots and run the wires nicely ot the center console and then I can fit the door panels. I from what I could tell it looks like the door panel will flex enough to fit fine, might be a slight bluge where the motor is? Like I said Ill just have to post some pictures. And Im sure some of you guyes will love this, ill be hacking up these door panels since my door handle is relocated for my rollcage side bar lol.

I was very happy with it, here is the build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119377

Hey Guys, I happened on some NEW OEM door panels for my 240z. Yea new in the bag woot, even have the new plastic sealer for the door I did a quick test fit this weekend and they clear the power windows without any issue. Might hit the panel a bit but not a big deal. Ill post some pictures whenever I finish mounting them, I sitll gotta take the doors off and mount the wire boots etc. Ill go ahead and post this to my slef but they are coming:

Braille's Website: http://braillebattery.com/index.php/ I bought all my stuff from Jegs because it nded up being cheaper with 12 dollar shipping and the mounts was 20 bucks cheaper then msrp.

I think the PC680 will do fine if you drive the car regularly or run a float charger on it if you leave it stored for a while. I just didnt want to risk getting stuck because of it somewhere... the 3121 has a much larger reserve capacity. And my main point is regardless of the battery don't try to start your car unless you have a good battery let it charge first.

Restaurant - Fiesta Del Burro Loco Mini Putt - Mt Atlanticus If you go through Myrtle you have to go to those two places.

I saw my first Z car at a car dealership/museum on a trip out west when I was about 12 years old. I was already really interested in cars at the time due to my dad always buying and selling and fixing them up, I would always help and get to drive them around the driveway. Anyway I had never scene one before, I thought it was an exotic at first being enthralled with Ferraris, and I absolutely loved it. I asked my dad what it was and he told me a Datsun 240z. He also said that he had two of them when he was in highschool. From that point on it was all I could talk about non stop. I bought several books on them and figured out what year was best etc. When I was 14.5 just when drivers ed was starting my dad found a 1974 260z just outside of town in pretty good shape..he bought the car for a father son project and we had a blast cleaning it up. We put weber carbs on it and I drove it all over creation with him in the passengers seat, I loved it. My dad was more of a clean and shine type guy with cars and I took over the restoration stuff. We had delt with a few shops when we got the car and had several bad experiences, not to mention big bills. One shop closed my hood with a wrench on the radiator crossmember and dented the hood.... From that point on I decided to do all the work on my car myself, to not only learn about cars but to have fun! Armed with information from Zcar.com and HybridZ.com I dove in starting with the suspension first......by the time I was 16 I had drained by savings account (initially for my pilots license) and was putting the finishing touches on my turbo swap complete with a NPR intercooler and SDS! Talk about a ride for a 16 yo....the rest I guess you could say it history! Here is a picture of my first Z, I guess this was my Junior year. I totaled it on the day this picture was taken. I now have a serious problem; Im addicted to cars, z more precisely, and between cars and school I have no time and no money... and I like it I am currently 22 years old and a mechanical Engineering Student at NCSU, I own 3 Z cars: 03 350z Track Edition (Daily Driver) 71 240z VQ swapped and highly modded (weekend project) 72 240z Beater (something to do at school, selling soon)

I recently ran into a little bit of an issue with my car. Ive been running a Odyssey PC680 dry cell battery in my car for quite a while. While the battery was really cool and light it was more aggravating then anything, any little current draw would drain it almost instantly. I usually only get to take my car out every two weeks or so and every single time I would go out my battery would be dead or very low...headlights would dim when I came to a stop etc. Anyway not a big deal until I started running the VQ... the ECU must see 10V or it will not behave properly. The other weekend I came home and tried to start my car without hooking up the battery charger first, battery had enough juice to turn the car over but when it did so the voltage dropped and the ECU could no longer control the relays. When this happened it noticed the throttle circuit not responding correctly and the engine went into lock down and would only idle. Throttle lockdown prevents the throttle from opening period and the throttle plate will rest on the idle screw (5 degrees). Anyway had to clear all the codes with a scanner before it would run. After this it lost all its idle memory and had a lot of trouble idling and would die when I came to a stop. After driving it a bit it seems to have fixed itself pretty well but I still have to get up with somebody with a Nissan Consult to Relearn my Idle Air volume since I dont have a engine check light for self diagnostics........pretty aggravating. Anyway to solve to issue I went ahead and bought a bigger battery. Im using a Braille B3121 , which is almost twice the size and has alot more power. Odyssey PC680 Specs (15.4 lb): 680 cranking amps for 5 seconds 595 cranking amps for 10 seconds 525 cranking amps for 20 seconds Short circuit current over 1800A 17Ah 25 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load CCA - 220 (Is this important?) Braille B3121 Specs (21 lb): Voltage: 12 Volts Full Charge Voltage:13.8 Volts Short Circuit Current (Max Cranking Amps):3000 est. Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 5 sec @ 80F: 1380 Pulse Cranking Amps (PCA) 10 sec @ 80F:1207 Pulse Cranking Amps 20 sec @ 80F:1066 Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 80F:892 Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 32F:742 Cold Cranking Amps 30 sec @ 0F: 550 Reserve Capacity: 1hr 15mins Capacity (C/20 rate): 31 amp hr Internal Resistance: 4.0 milliohms (.004 ohms) Life Cycle @ 10% DOD:3100 cycles est. SO far I am very impressed by Braille, I the design of their terminals much better. The terminals are designed like a motorcycle battery with a nut instead of internal threads which can strip on the odyssey. Also they give alot of specs on there battery and have nice mounts. I also bought there charger which serves as a tester, quick charger, and floater so I can leave the battery hooked up if im gone for a long time. They have some sick lieghtweight carbon batteries as well that are super smae and pack a big punch. Anyway here are the pictures, still working on finding a better way to hook up the positive terminal...hopefully i can find a cool factory distribution block. Also since the batteries are hte same width I was able to reuse my Odyssey mounting point, just had to drill two new holes in the Braille Mount.

And my new setup, just waiting to go FI just look at allllllll the room :

My Old L28 setup , I miss her....sorta:

My 240z came with one mirror from the factory I still only run one mirror as its worthless anyway. Another thing you could do is go to a more aerodynamic mirror, like the bullit mirrors, they looks classy and I bet would shave a little drag. Run one and sell the other one to somebody else lol.

Ive been following your build and it is truly impressive! Would you mind if I dropped by the Hot Rod barn sometime. Im in Mooresville, NC and would love to see your car. Also will you be able to make it to Zdayz this year?