lazycat5

Yup mine were solid axles,but the center sections are practically identical. I'm sorry for not making myself clear on that. Some 8.8 irs rears are also made of aluminum something else to consider. All that said, I would still keep the r200.

I ran several 11. and 10. second mustangs in the past with 31 spline axeled 8.8's without breaking them. Two of my best freinds have run mustangs in the very low 9's with fully built 8.8's for years with out problems. The 28 spline 8.8 rear can break!; with no more than a change to sticky tires.

Wow, who will save your soul if you ever let her go. Your wife is a great talent. As for being 1 in a million, sorry, but I have that woman; my wife has been putting up with my car addiction for over 24 years and is still by my side.

Ok I ran your numbers on the Richmond Gear drag race calculator. You should have a trap speed of 116mph / 125mph with a recomended gear of 3.93 off the nos. and 3.66 with. That makes your 3.7 rear a good choice for both. First gear is more than likely the strongest gear in your trans I wouldn't recomend a 2nd gear launch with nos. and if you drop to much rpm that may also cost you your engine. If it were me I would launch in first and hit the nos in 2nd. This should help you have traction and keep your clutch from geting overpowerd and not letting you get into the next gear, its happend to me. Hope this helped.

These Hookers are what I was going to use, but I didn't want to reinvent the brake booster and master cylinder locations.

Cost me $500.00 to have mine done by a pro. You may be shortselling them at $200.00 they look realy nice.

Same problem with my weatherstripping, doors and hatch. Hated to do it but after weeks of playing with the doors I went to autozone and used their weatherstripping. Not perfect but I can now open and close my doors with one hand. On the hatch I don't know yet, but I'm thinking autozone.

Good luck with them, and try to post some pics. I kick myself for not doing it that way myself.

I don't have pics of them installed, but they will work with jtr mounts. You have to make a hole in the battery area and eliminate the brake booster and masters from the stock locations. If your willing to do the work they can make great headers for side pipe applications.

Hello. The current look of your car with bumper offers no true protection anyway. I think that your car looked awesome the way that you had it previously without the bumper. In my opinion you had the best looking front end on this website!! I wish that you would post a good picture of the bumper-less look, because I never saw a clear picture of it. This way other Z members would also be able to see the difference in styles. Just a thought.

I used them for my buddy's 1300 hp 351 turbo ford five years and still going with no problems.

Almost forgot, the best bang for the buck on my XK8, was the zex nitrous kit I pyrited from my mustang. I can't imagine how it would have worked with the supercharged motor. 500 plus hp wouldn't surprise me with the exhaust aftercooler and zex kit instaled.

Wow! How did I miss this posting? I was going to put the supercharged 4.0L in my Z and chickened out for fear of not knowing how to wire it up. It will fit a Z, it is an all aluminum four cam motor. And I have only seen one with a stick in a light weight XKR in Europe, and of course the racing XK8's that were winning races a few years back. If you go with this combo, Ford Cobra after market pulley for super charger will work as they are both M112 superchargers. Same for the after market aftercooler that mounts in front of the radiator. That motor was rated to 370hp from the factory but the exhaust on the XK's are anemic and have no fewer than 5 mufflers. I still have my 4.0L supercharged motor. PM me if you want it cheap. Its just gathering dust in the corner of my garage since I put the SBC motor in my Z instead.

I was about to glue a dash cover on my dash but I have to give this a try.

Thanks.

Nice job. You just filled the cracks on the dash with bondo and sprayed with bedliner, can it be just that easily done.

I frequently tow my 18ft. trailer with my astro van. I sometimes pick up police cars boght at auctions for a pall and deliver them to a taxi co.. Not using a weight distributing hitch. Trailer has brakes and I level the ride hight of the trailer and van by moving the car back and forth till there both level. I also have helper springs and better than stock tires. Set tire psi. at 50 for trailer and 40 for van. As long as I stay below 65 or 70 its usually no problem.

Hello. I am not sure if you understand what the other posters are trying to tell you. But since you are having difficulty searching, I will try my best to explain what is meant by a welded diff as I have one of my own. If you have a 280zx chances are you have a strong enough diff to weld. You weld your diff by disassembling it, and literally welding with a welder the spider gears together and if possible the spider gears to the carrier and in my case I also welded the retaining pin to the carrier. This is a modification that will strengthen your diff and lock your axles so they may rotate together at the same speed all the time. This modification can be performed on any diff. Good luck.

Great job on that car. I wish it was for sale before I started to build mine. Do you have piks of your rear spring perch mods, I want to use 255 or 275 drag radials on my car as well.

I like #6

2" drop base on top of 1/2" N.O.S. plate on top of performer rpm air gap.

I use the jtr kit with the 1/2" spacers, a 14" with drop base and 3" filter. No problem.

Hey guys, I am finished with the backup light and neutral safety switch. The backup light is the michroswitch on the passenger side. The neutral safety is on the front. It all fits under the stock console. The bolts that hold the T-handle are drilled and taped for bigger bolts to give a more positive feel. This shifter now feels rock solid.

One of these days I'll have to learn how to use a comtuter.

No not at the shifter, but by fliping the trans lever to face up. Now Park will be at 2:00 o clock and shift forward to about 11:00 o clock for L1. I should have shown that on the fifth and sixed pic, sorry saw that question coming. You can however see it on the trans the way it should be on the forth pic. My trans is P,R,N,1,2,3, with a full manual valve body. On the neutral and backup switches. I'll be working on then this week and try to get some pics by the weekend.