ozconnection

Yes, that's it. Thanks for reminding us on that one Daeron. Only thing is the piston crown would have to be fairly thick cause for a 3.2 litre engine, there would be substancial dish required. What would be the minimal crown thickness after machining? Also, can you do this at home or is it a machine shop operation? Expensive? Or if it's easier, can you direct me to the thread that has this info in it please. Thanks

Yes, this is what Bell was suggesting in his book.

Ok, that's probably what you'd need to do when building such a large, boosted engine, but if I can recall what was being said about such a situation in Corky Bells book, Maximum Boost, the 'squish' is all wrong and that can introduce all sorts of combustion problems. Is that true and does it apply here to some degree?

Muahahahahaha Is anyone close to that S13 with "L" power?

Ok, cool.

Tony, where do you get to drive, in SoCal, at speeds in excess of 85 mph continuously to find out that your cooling system isn't keeping up? Man, I'll only touch those speeds for a moment as I do my G-tech testing runs. Other than that, its more like up to 70 mph continuously....no more...too risky

Cavitation!!

Mmmmm, I was really asking "L" powered.

HeHeHeHeHeHeHe Go for it mate!! (Are you boys in the states anywhere near that? Carb, turbo jet engine or otherwise? ) It is an awesome time card though.....!

Fan AND shroud..... A fan (any fan) by itself if not the whole answer and a 16 inch electric fan may perform better fitted to a radiator without the shroud. (Closer contact to the radiator may provide a better pull/push of air through the fins it covers.) My setup is now a 16 inch electric fan contained within a factory shroud. It's had no problem holding the temperature of my engine stable in traffic, with the aircon on and on hot summer days! I'm very happy with my mod!

I was looking at some stuff and saw this head with a temperature sensor boss located between cylinders 5 and 6. Did Nissan already know something about the hot spot in this area? They could have put the sensor location anywhere along the head, why here specifically? This particular engine doesn't have the temp. sensor screwed in. Does anyone know why?

You run a 150 degree thermostat though? Any reason?

How would you modify the P90A head to suit a 3.2 litre engine and get the CR low enough for boosting?

I thought all these were my pictures!! Here are some more for your viewing pleasure! BTW, it's a water to air intercooler on this S13. The L28 is bored/stroked to L31 and runs a pair of Trust TD06-20G turbo's. It has a Lenco trans. with a triple plate clutch. Runs an 8.52 @ 158 mph. Bloody Japanese!! Good on em!

I'd love to get my hands on some of this stuff to try! eBay sellers of the stuff want over $100.00 to ship it to me and after some looking around it isn't easy to find locally. The web site for Evans doesn't show the container/bottle sizes available, so what may be a $30 dollar purchase may turn out to be a 60 or even 90 dollar exercise, then plus postage. You'd want this stuff to last forever at that price! (funnily enough, that's what the website blurb suggests). The website quotes a boiling point of 375 degrees F @ zero PSI coolant pressure for their NPG product. If still using a stock, mechanical water pump that runs up to 35 psi....will that increase the boiling point of this stuff even further? There is also a part A and B solution that's supposed to remove all of the scale and other contaminants from in and around all the coolant passages. Has anyone used this stuff and how well does it work? Could another product that claims to do the same be used instead of the Evans cleaner solutions to prep the cooling system? Cheers!

Nissan built an L20A ET engine in Japan that ran a round port exhaust with liner cylinder head. Sure, it's a 2.0 litre engine but I think the P79 will work fine on your L28.

Nah Daniel, you're not hijacking this at all. You're comments are exactly what I'm looking for. Over the weekend, I might pull back the cam timing a bit so I can test out the ignition timing, with a degree or two more advance, see what happens.

The discussion on different/alternate fuels is interesting yet somewhat out of reach for the 'average' motorist it would seem. It would be a no brainer for any form of competition where these fuels are allowed, and expected. For the ordinary guy who fills up at the local gas station all this talk of special fuels is somewhat ott in my opinion. The point I'm making, there are some limits to the extent people will go in the search for better performance, and IIRC, I wanted to see 40 degrees total advance on a relatively stock engine (N42/N42) combination with ordinary gas station fuel. This is what Paul said I 'should' be able to achieve, and I've been giving it a good hard go (thermostats, water pumps, spark plugs, air/fuel mixtures, ignition timing and so on). I have been noticing that there are distinct performance variances depending on the weather (not just seasonally but daily!!). I consulted my bible and it seems this is true, that a "7-10% increase in the relative air density (RAD) could result in an air/fuel mixture lean enough to produce a set of melted pistons, if you don't richen the mixture accordingly. Also a decrease in the relative humidity could see the engine detonating unless the spark advance, or the amount of cam advance, is reduced." Unfortunately, it's not mentioned what the compression ratio or the state of tune of the engine is. However, the trend is there, and I'm the first to back that statement up with my recent testing and results. (Thank god I haven't holed a piston or anything, but we all know that L's are pretty tough and take a fair amount of punishment, usually!) The interesting point mentioned here is camshaft timing. I've not heard of people changing their cam timing anywhere near as often as their ignition timing to suit the ambient conditions. I could understand changing the ignition timing seasonally due to wide temperature variances, combined with the additives used in fuels as the seasons change, but cam timing? Who does that? It's a tuning variable sure, so should we (I) be looking at this too Paul? (I must point out that my stock cam is heavily advanced atm for the low speed torque it provides me with). Would there be optimum advance curves for each change in camshaft advance?....now that's interesting. All this stuff reminds me of the Vtec setups and how the Honda et al engineers must've considered all this stuff and built something that could do it.....all. Buggar!

Buggar me...that's what I used!!!!!!

Mate, I live a long way away from you. Chances of having the same stuff in our shops is slight. You basically know what's needed now, go and get some and try it. Tell us how you get on. Cheers.

Happened to me too last time I did the head. I used some of that sealant stuff you pour into the radiator......stopped the weeping very quickly and I've had absolutely zero problems with it since. That was 25K kms ago! I have changed the coolant many times since and haven't needed to use any more sealer. Guys on here will probably slam me for suggesting this stuff. There is an opinion that it reduces the effectiveness of the cooling system by forming an insulating layer over all the metal surfaces, reducing their ability to transfer/liberate heat. The other problem mentioned is that the 'stuff' can block off the small radiator tubes in the radiator, reducing its cooling ability. I was aware of these potential problems before I put the sealer in. The problem was fixed though without any apparent complications from its use. Good luck mate.

Thanks for that. The information on the site is a bit light on but it seems that there are people out there doing some R & D. I guess it wouldn't be too hard to improve on a 45yo design. The shape of that impeller on the web site is so different from what is on the end of the 'modern' CSR WP, it's ridiculous!! I believe the impellers are press fit onto the shaft of the stock water pump. Putting on another aftermarket impeller shouldn't be all that hard to do. Moving lots of water at lower rpms could be the design criteria for one model (towing, stop start city driving, chronic overheating) another design could push water well at high rpms for racing engines. Then the owner of the vehicle could buy the most appropriate design for their engine. Anyone interested?

Who are they?

I didn't even try since I figured we never got anything in Oz with an LD28 donk. Most of the guys over the counter here would probably say "What's an LD28 mate?" Didn't need to go there. Cheers!

Stock L series pump on left, LD28 one on right.