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Tony and I had a discussion when he was at my place about a brainchild of his. I don't really want to spill all his ideas because he could do that himself, obviously. Nigel, just think of the possibilities of an L20/24/28 block that was 8.2mm's taller than standard ie L20B size! (Sorry Tony if I've said too much It's just such an AWESOME idea,I couldn't help myself )

It'll be fine

I wont mention the L20B front cover Tony, OK?

Oh man,don't make it more difficult than it needs to be. Tony D gave it to you straight and I would follow his advice closely. he's got all the credentials any of us would ever need to do the job correctly. Take his advice. Do it once and do it right. What you want to do isn't that complicated!

No shortcuts should be taken here. The mods you describe work when ALL engineering aspects have been addressed. Deviation from the beaten path is risky and potentially very costly for you. Change the HG and plan your next engine now. Eventually what you have in there will wear out (hopefully not break) and you can slot in a properly thought out and well engineered L Series! Just my opinion mate, good luck with whatever you decide to do.

If you want it without effort, you don't want it bad enough... (Tony D) I'm gonna post this in my boy's room in big capital letters....he could be a state 100m sprint competitor. Nice cooling system mods too BTW. The original bottom half of the thermostat housing persists, with a sensor of some sort in it.....hmmmm, interesting

Here they are.

Turbo diesel and an O/D auto tranny.....aaaahhhhhh a match made in heaven.....

How do you test for this? Which ones are any good?

That's a nice looking design, have you thought about building a symmetrical intake manifold instead?

What's your long term solution though? Water injection?

Detail it, get rid of the crap blower thing and tidy the leads and "WOW" (Rare, I've never seen one like that before).

Hehehehe

Impressive speeds on those trains alright! Ya just wanna make sure the engineer who services them didn't forget anything! V-max doesn't have any associated acceleration. All depends on what part of the pendulum swing we're talkin' about. High school physics 101.

Interesting discussion.....I thought that I'd add my two bob's worth. Torque is what accelerates you, power is what wins races. Power is torque X revs. So often is the case that an engine is modified to improve its power, by definition its torque by revs. Torque at high revs is achieved by improving the airflow capacity of the engine. This can be achieved by many methods, such as turbo or supercharging, by chemical means ie nitrous or by the conventional NA route with cams porting compression etc. We all know this. To build an engine that 'feels' torquey, without having to drop two gears to get the thing "on song" is what I read the original statement to be. A torquey engine at revs (a powerful engine) in my Cedric was never going to be the right choice as a truly functional street driven vehicle IMO. I built up my L28 to be responsive at low rpms and provide solid urge without having to "get on the boost" or "come on the cam" or anything else like that. It's there, all the time, just squeeze the throttle and it 'goes' no lag or delay. That's what I call a good responsive (read torquey) street engine. Oh, and it CAN smoke the tyres if I want, but more importantly, come to a hill at 100km/h, stay in overdrive at 2.5k rpm and it stays there, just squeeze the throttle and it just pulls, just like something bigger although it isn't. It's these comfortable and effortless performance characteristics that give me a hard on every time I drive the bloody thing. Oh yeah, I'm excited alright. And it's essentially a stock longblock and it originally pulled 0-100km/h in 13.4 seconds, now it's less than 10 seconds for the same marker. It idles smoothly, doesn't overheat in traffic, starts first kick everytime hot or cold and your nanna could still drive it to the shops. The coppers never give it a second look either (Not that it doesn't attact attention though). I love my 'tractor'. Cheers.

That's a better view Tony thanks. Any more pics of that monster? (and by the look of it, it was running when the photo was taken....nice)

I wish I was as unemployed as you mate........your engine looks sick as......cheap doesn't look like that where I come from.

There are some 'interesting' comments made right here. What you've said about fuel injection, the mismatch between the head and exhaust manifold and the retarded ignition timing scenario suggest to me that you need to do far more research on these topics to balance your negativity with reality. Nothing wrong with having an opinion mate, we all do, so long as you can support what you've said with solid information, of which there is plenty of at this site. Good luck with your project mate

Lovely to see old school like this on the dyno! Is that an EWP up front? Surely there has been enough evidence in this thread (and others) to suggest that there are better options than that!?. (the letters L and D and numbers 2 and 8 keep coming to mind) Tony, didn't you say that it was Electromotive that were running a diesel WP in their cars? How much power were they making? 1000 on the dyno. Why switch it over if the mechanical one is adequate? Is there a video companion to this picture? I'd love to hear this monster on full song!

I have also built a few engines for various applications. I've not had to check the mains or rod bolt settings before. Have you ever found a problem here or is it just piece of mind?

Yes, a 390 cfm unit probably a list 8007. The venturis on a 390 are smaller than a 350 2 barrel, in fact if that was a 4 barrel, it'd be 700 cfm or thereabouts so naturally the 390 will perform well with the small L Series 6. My low end power is good because I have concentrated on that aspect. My car is auto with air and steer and weighs almost 1500 kgs. I can smoke the rear tyres too! (don't tell anyone ) Stock N42/N42 combo with just bolt ons (at the moment). Vac sec Holleys are good from that point of view. Hell I even ran a 650 spreadbore at one point for the lovely throttle response it had on the primaries. But I also have a Nascar 390 cfm 80507 double pumper which gave great top end performance it just wasn't quite what I was looking for on the street. For a race setup, excellent! Don't get carried away with the secondary springs, too light is worse than too heavy....balance is the key, acceleration should be seamless. I also ran a List 9002 600cfm annular discharge vac sec carb. I made the most power with this carb on the dyno at just on 105rwkw's (through the auto). Used a Clifford 6=8 intake manifold for that one. Low end torque needs a short cam, plenty of advance on the ignition and cam and a Arizona z car intake with the plenum divider in place is IMO the best combo. Compression will help, but be careful with a short cam because it can cause too much ping, then you'll lose torque because of retarded ign. timing. I use PULP all the time for consistancy.

Two things I'll mention EGR. Ignition advance. Same or different on each setup?

I've not heard of a Holley 395. Are you sure this is right? Not a 465 or a 450 or a 390? As already suggested to you, jets are something that will need to be individually tailored for your engine combination. Things such as camshaft spec. and intake manifold design have HUGE effects on this. You need to be a lot more specific about your setup before we can even hope to try and help you here. A secondary metering block is a tuning tool designed to make it easier to adjucst the secondary fuel calibration in your Holley. The fact that it doesn't have idle mixture screws in them is not critical. I have run a Holley for many years and have found that unless you run a REALLY BIG CAM, you're wasting your time with that kind of setup anyway. I've tried to run a 4 corner idle setup on a mild build with adjustable IFR's and IAB's and Still couldn't get it lean enough......just too much fuel was supplied for a 2.8 litre six! A pair of idle screws on the primaries is enough. How are you going to tune this beast? I do my own tuning via an Innovate WBO2 setup. If you don't want to have one of those, be prepared for a dyno session to dial the carb in. Depending on how good the operator is with Holleys, this process could take several hours and cost you nearly as much as the wideband. I find that with the wideband, any subsequent changes I make to anything, I can tell what its doing to my AFR's and adjust the carb accordingly. It's a cool tool. Good luck with your Holley mate. Make sure that before you begin any tuning your carb is in great condition. Try to tune a dodgy carb makes all of your efforts fruitless. And just as a tip, change ONE THING at a time when tuning. It's bloody slow but its worthit. Record every change you make in a notepad or something. I have literally pages and pages of written notes of all my mods. I can easily refer back to a known good point if tuning somehow goes offtrack. Cheers PS, this is my car with a Holley 465.

Hey, no problemo...see you again next time! I will have to instal my MSD timing controller next. I just need to figure out how to lock this distributor. Hmmmm, did it with an older point type, not with the electronic ones. I thought about using a rubber hose again to expand the weights out to maximum. That way if something goes wrong, the dizzy won't advance any more than it already is. Should work again methinks.