ozconnection

Gee, I thought I explained my setup very clearly. The exploration into the world of L series engine cooling has been done to death in several very recent threads and although I'm no expert on the subject, I've tried to be open minded, offer alternate solutions and I've genuinely learn't heaps along the way. The radiator is an excellent point of reference for temperature triggering for all the reasons I've already mentioned.

I had a long, hard look at what I wanted my setup to be able to do. Several companies sell quite sophisticated setups that will allow the user to define the temperature setting at which the fan switches on/off. Some are reasonably priced, some aren't. The 'problem' I see with using the thermostat housing as the temperature pick up point is the limited range of temperatures seen there once the engine is up to operating temperature compared to the temps seen at the radiator (verified by a laser heat gun). Using this area for your sensing, I believe your fan will be on virtually all the time and I also believe that that situation isn't what's needed. With the temp sensor on the radiator, the coolant's temperature will determine the switching of the fan in a more representative manner. The range of variables I see are: Start up-hot and cold Idling cruising-low speed and high speed hard driving-towing,draging,drafting Depending on the style of driving (cruising, speeding), the ambient temperatures (ie summer/winter) and the volume of airflow through the radiator (ie low speed driving, high speed driving, drafting) the temperature of the coolant through the radiator will vary. Why run the electric fan when the engines coolant doesn't require any further cooling? Or, on the other hand, will switch on if the demands of driving require it. I know, for example, that there are temperature switches for some Nissans that screw into the radiator like I suggest to control the switching of the electric fans. Don't get me wrong Zmanco, your approach obviously worked well for you as does my setup for me. I do think that there may be some advantages in sensing and switching the fan from the radiator though. Good luck.

I've just recently changed over to an electric fan triggered by a thermostatic temperature switch. The switch is a simple normally open device that triggers at 70 degrees celcius. I use it to trigger a relay setup. (I don't run the 10-15 amps drawn by the fan through the switch). I put this switch at the top of the fins on the radiator on the side away from the radiator hose, so when the thermostat opens and hot coolant passes through that area, the electric fan is triggered. It has a mounting tab so I could use two 1/8th thick but about 50 mm long threaded bolts to pass through the radiator fins to mount it securely. Those bolts were sourced from the local hardware store for only a dollar or so. The switch was purchased from an electronics (Jaycar Electronics) store for US$5.00. Altogether, very cheap, simple and effective. This setup works really well and has proven itself to be very reliable in the hot summer months we have here at the moment. I find that the fan switches off as I drive and switches on again if I drive at a low speed or stop at an intersection etc. When I move off, the fan switches off again, so long as I drive above 25 mph or 40 km/h. It cycles on and off when idling for extended periods, running for a minute or two, then off for 20-30 seconds, then on again. Exactly like a late model car. Once to operating temperature, the temperature needle is very stable. Highly recommended. Cheers!

Thanks for the advice. I bought the cam to use but I haven't built the engine yet so nitriding is a very good suggestion at this point. I'll look into it.

AND, as a final statement, I added a 20 psi coolant recovery radiator cap, up from the original 13 psi one. Ten bucks worth. There, I'm done.

Maybe better spec'ed but not in terms of longevity Nigel!

Oh crap, I've bought a stage two turbo grind from MSA. Sell it ? Buyers anyone? (Or as it now seems, throw it away and don't waste my time with it!)

Just out of curiosity, and something that I found out quite by accident, have you ever explored the possibility of blocking off one of the balance tube ports on the manifold. A thin aluminium spacer for both sides, one cut so all the vacuum ports etc still work but the other side uncut to block off the connection between both groups of runners. Why do I ask this? If I'm not mistaken, the balance tube was designed to do just that, balance the reversion pulses out which would adversely affect the carbs and their proper fuel metering. Now that you have EFI does that need matter any more? I would see this as a tuning option you have at your disposal. If you're lucky, you may be able to remove some of that dip in the power curve I can see (and you mentioned) on your dyno results. The texts describe this as a 'dual plane' setup, the term being applied to V8's and their manifold configurations. But when broken down to just its fundamentals, it refers to the complete separation of induction pulses from one 'bank' to the other. In our case it's cylinders 1,2 and 3 and 4, 5 and 6 that are separated. The firing order falls into this nicely, so the two manifold groups have exactly 120 degrees of separtion and the pulses are evenly spaced. Cam timing will also play a part, the closer to stock figures, the more profound the effect, but still worth trying on a modified engine using this manifold IMO. Cheap, easy and quick to do, I found this to be a worthy mod to my car long ago when I ran twin carbs. Now running an Arizona manifold with a Holley, I believe I achieved the same effect, with a good range of power and plenty of torque. Try it for yourself and report back your impressions. Cheers.

Ummmmmm, yeah what he said. Wind the boost up until something blows, then back it off a few psi. You'll find your boost limit quicker that way.

"Could you imagine if the 90-94 Maximas were RWD and RB powered?" Yes Daeron, it's called a Skyline. In Oz we lost our straight six to a V6 FWD J30 Maxima as well. Buggar! Ever since the switch, Aussie journo's have lamented the loss and the grey import market was born with two door (and a few 4 door) R32's 33's and more recently R34 flooding the second hand market. In retrospect I think Nissan regretted the move too. The Maxima was boring and characterless, a comfy ride but far from what you'd call "A Drivers Car". They would've sold a bucketload of Skylines though, because the Skyline series had been in Australia for almost 20 years and was a known entity, an evolutionary car and one that would've brought back the loyalists (and their friends!) in droves. Whoever made that decision is probably working at Toyota now!

Yes, very important to get the words 'right' or you could be asking for the wrong thing entirely!

Nice pictures Pete. I love the little bits of Japanese you can quote. Do you know any more? That L is a little sad though, looks like someone had grief with their alternator and had to "borrow one" real quick. "I'll bring it back, I promise Mr Nissan L Gata" Leads are bit all over the place, rusty starter motor and the water pump inlet looks a little "used". Considering they powered hundreds of thousands if not millions of vehicles, you'd think they could afford to put a complete virgin on display.

S15 aluminium radiator is also an eBay Chinese special...very cheap...but looks and fits OK into P230 coupe chassis. I made some aluminum brackets with thick rubber strips to encourage airflow through the radiator instead of the air going around it as the radiator itself didn't completely fill the available space. May I suggest rubber mounts top and bottom to isolate the aluminium from the chassis....some sort of sacraficial erosion to avoid I've heard. Up front is a tranny cooler that will work as the heat exchanger for the water to air intercooler I'll be using. Please don't think this as a Hijack 83turbo280zx ....I certainly don't want you to think that for a second!

No Nigel, the Cedrics had middle sumps with the dipstick in the rear boss.

Any man bearing gifts from afar is welcome to visit me and my folk down under anytime. Nice one Tony! Just let me know in advance next time mate.

Thanks TimZ!! That information is great. To be honest with you, I haven't checked system pressure since putting in the LD pump, replacing the CSR unit. I should've but I haven't....yet. I'm expecting, however, that my pressures are at least as good as what they were with the standard aftermarket spec water pump that I was originally using. An interesting sidepoint is that even after flushing the coolant, there must have been some small pockets left over. The colour of the water with water wetter is tinted green...the water wetter itself is flouro pink!! So there is a little anti freeze/anti boil left in the mix!!

Thanks Tony, you're right.

Has anyone seen this before? Should a new one be produced with interviews, how to's etc? I'd buy it! Love the datSAN, typo?

Ok, I'm really happy with the cooling setup I have on the car now. I'm using a 180 degree thermostat (normal climate rating). I'm using Redline water wetter mixed with 10 litres of distilled water. My cooling system in the Cedric is 10.6 litres total capacity so that worked out fine. I'm running the Nissan LD28 water pump I got from Japan. Some minor mods were made to the front cover to make the pump fit, but those mods were minor and have been explained in the cooling around cylinder 5 sticky. I decided to keep the thermo fan setup. It's relay triggered by a simple Jaycar electronics 70 degree Celcius temperature switch placed at the top of the radiator fins outside the confines of the factory radiator shroud. It works perfectly and is cheap as chips at AU$5.75 each. The setup is to use the temp. switch (normally open) to trigger the relay at 70 degrees Celcius. At that temperature, the switch closes and the radiator fan cuts in. Watching the temperature guage move during engine warm up, the needle creeps to just beyond halfway when the water thermostat opens. The guage moves back closer to halfway (the rush of cool water through the engine) and at that time the fan cuts in as the hot water begins to rush through the top of the radiator. It runs continously for about 2 minutes and then begins to cycle off and on, one minute on, twenty seconds off etc. The laser heat gun confirms this, 73 degrees the fan switches on, 68 degrees it switches off. Works just like a modern car does.....perfect. The needle on the guage is rock solid man....it doesn't move. Sooooo, in a nutshell, I'm stoked! It's not a particularly complex setup and that's what makes it easy to service. That's important to me. I have to thank YOU guys out there for all of your advice and direction on the subject. Cheers everyone! And, I'm running a total timing of 38 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpms. Absolutely no pinging detected at all.

Yeah, when I look at the location of the factory unit on my L20A ET's, it's quite low on the block. All depends now on what you use to do the detecting.

That's great Shawn, thank you for the links!

Razumjeti

Oh the silence is deafening!!!!! C'mon guys, anybody? Pete, get those pictures on here, talk to MK.

At least 800hp assuming vehicle total weight of 2500 lbs and using an ET of 8.5 sec.

Great tour guide Tony! Later today I'll get the map out and follow your route. That'll be interesting. During Febuary down under, the toughest (read hottest) trip is across the Hay plains in central western New South Wales. Been there done that and won until travelling along at about 125km/h (75mph) with the air on, the belt calls it a day and smacks itself on the underside of the bonnet with a convincing thud. I was with a mate of mine and we'd thought we must've run over a crow or something because of the thuds and 'flappy' noises it made on destruction. We pulled over and popped the bonnet to find not a feather in sight...only strands of chord and rubber everwhere!! So after that to the next service centre where we could get a replacement belt for the A/C, we drove with outside temps hovering at around 45 degrees Celcius, and inside the car, with the windows wide open...it was even bloody hotter! The moral to this story is the Datsun can take it! We on the other hand are much more fragile and from that time onwards I never leave home for a trip in summer time without a trio of fan, steer and air belts! And lots of water!! Cheers.