ozconnection

Thanks heaps for that Derek.

Hehehe, I can see that....nice one

Yeah, that would be great! Thanks Derek Thanks for everyone's responses.

Top Gear mentioned something about this with Formula one and Group A racers. The tolerances are so tight with these things that you can't even turn it over unless preheated oil and water are circulated through the engine first. I'm close to start up on my L28. Since warmup is where most normal wear takes place and is most severe with a fresh (and cold) engine, would it make any sense to heat the water and oil before firing it up? I do understand that part of the run in process includes a degree of wear but would it be 'better' to do it to an engine that is 'pre heated' and closer to actual operating conditions? I have visions of large aluminium pots of oil and coolant heating up on my BBQ hotplate and grill......and my laser thermo thingy keeping tabs on preceedings Is there a better way? Thanks for your thoughts.

Seems like you'll be the first then!

A very convincing argument Tony. Very few owners could ever afford to keep their cars for many years like we do due to taxes and levy's in the mother country. Longevity may not have been something that was of major concern to the engineers when they were selecting heads for some of their JDM turbo engines. They may have known the problems associated with liners and EGT's, but thought what the heck, they pass inspection now and before the liners cause trouble, most of the cars will be off the road anyway. If this becomes an issue, we can afford to deal with one off's as they occur...... mentality. Now that I've planted the seed of doubt, is there anyone who can shut down this idea completely with some concrete evidence to the contrary? I don't really think too many people care either way, but I would like to know for certain what I have is factory or not. Cheers.

What you're saying is entirely feasable, so too is the chance that this was something truely different, just like that E32 4 barrel intake manifold I showed you Tony. What I see with the little ET engine is a block with a boss cast into it for a knock sensor and deeply dished pistons. The sump was the turbo variety too. A lot of extra trouble from the factory to 'mask' a N/A engine and turn it into a turbo version. Heck, even the camshaft, headbolts, camcover and oil pump were turbo spec. And what about that water to oil cooler? (The only other car I saw this on was a picture of an engine bay in New Zealand. I can't remember what car it was, but I remember it was an L20AET.) We had a funny thing happen in the early eighties over here. A shipload of PA10 coupes were sent to these shores by mistake. Some 200 of them I believe. They arrived and we ended up keeping them. Someone must have known they were the wrong shipment but how did that happen? What I'm trying to say here is just because it is known that no L turbo engines came with liners, there is every possibility that some did. Just like the Stanza coupes that weren't meant to be here. I hope this doesn't sound argumentative as it's not meant to be. I just think I have one of those unusual spec. engines in my garage. Looking for 2 litre heads?, I too have an O5L and a spare Y70.... mine would be cheaper than his......!

Yeah, I know that the O5L is a turbo head, but that ET engine did in fact come with a Y70 head. Why would anyone have found it necessary to remove a turbo head and replace it with a N/A head? Nah, I'm confident that this was original spec from the factory from some you-beaut C211. Heavy duty rods, crank, and a factory water to oil cooler like on the LD engines convince me that it was 'heavy duty' spec. and completely original. You can tell when bolts and nuts are undone for the first time since new. (Virgins....I've had a few of them ) A 'sport option' from the factory perhaps? A head with 30mm intake ports instead of 28mm's, the round exhaust port issue was not a concern for the flows experienced and could in fact reduce emissions and act as an anti-reversional barrier as well.

When I bought an L20AET factory turbo engine years ago, that little beauty ran a Y70 head. The Y70 head had round exhaust ports with liners. Why would Nissan have chosen to use that head when the O5L and E30 two litre square port exhaust heads were also available for use?

That's awesome!!! That's such a credit to the Nissan L Series and those who work on them that after such a long time from initial development and build, these dinosaur donks are still breaking records. There's life in them yet. Anyone for a bronto burger......?

Found this...... OS Giken L-series stroker kit $14,500 This complete stroker kit to suit Nissan L26 and L28 engines gives 7mm longer stroke, so if it is used with 89mm pistons, engine displacement becomes 3208.4cc (87mm, 87.5mm, 88mm, 88.5mm, 89mm, 89.3mm, and 89.5mm pistons can be chosen for the same kit price) CRANKSHAFT Material: Chrome-molybdenum Full Counter-balanced design suitable for up to 10,000rpm Stroke OS 86mm (Nissan OEM 79mm) Pin Width OS 21.7mm (Nissan OEM 27mm) Pin Diameter OS 48mm (Nissan OEM 50mm) Use RB26 conrod bearings and 1 piece key (key included in kit) PISTONS Material: Forged Aluminum Pin Height OS 29.4mm (Nissan OEM 38.1mm) Pin Diameter OS 20mm (Nissan OEM 21mm) Pin Length 61mm (Specify piston diameter, valve recess shape, pin height etc when ordering). CONRODS Chrome-molybdenum and Forged (Main body parts and caps are forged separately.) PCD OS 135.5mm (Nissan OEM 130.4mm) Big End Width OS 21.5mm (Nissan OEM 26.8mm) Big End Diameter OS 48mm (Nissan OEM 50mm) Small End Diameter OS 20mm (Nissan OEM 21mm) ....if money is no issue.......half ya luck mate!

I should have mentioned that the L20AET specs above are for the "light duty" engine. I have another L20AET which has the "normal" or standard sized rods with 21mm small ends and 53mm big ends and 9mm rod bolts. Below is some information I found out about the nnormal duty L20A rods from Brian who emailed Japan for confirmation "Info I came up with: L20 rods are 133.0 mm from center to center... This is the same as the early 240z 9mm rods!!! Best RegardZ, Brian Z Car Custom's-JDM Your Source for KAMEARI & O.E.R.-JDM Products! www.zccjdm.com P.O. Box #213 Terrebonne, OR. 97760 541-913-6530" Some engine builder programs list the L20A rods as 135 mm's centre to centre and I've even read in a Datsun book they're 128 mm's. Go figure!

I hate that deficiency...cripples an otherwise good site...needs to be fixed ASAP The valve stuff outlined here is very interesting though

Hey, I have an L20A ET piston and rod out of one of my spare engines. Its an M spec. block and the internals are the light duty versions often described in the books as the L24E Maxima spec.(or at least similar to). The engine came out of a JDM R30 Skyline, the year is unknown. Top ring is 1.5 mm's Second ring is 2.0 mm's Oil ring is 4 mm's. Rod bolt is 8 mm's Small end is 20 mm's Big end is 48 mm's As for the weights of the rod, piston and rod length, I can't accurately give those figures ATM, sorry. Hey Kiwi303, I just read your post as I was writing mine.....

http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_l3_2_85mm_crankshaft.php

Sick KenMary!!

But it's an additive, rather than a specifically formulated engine oil package for engine break in. Does that make a difference? And 10W30 is very thin......my factory manual for L28's recommends 20w-50. Is yours a fully synthetic oil? Ive used synthetics before and my engine just eats the stuff, lovely staining on the rear of the car from burning that oil. I use 15W-40 ATM and its great. Thanks for your input guys!!

Push down on the valve spring retainer with the wooden or plastic end of a garage tool like a mallet to compress it. ie move the valve off its seat. Whilst doing that pull the pivot end of your rocker under the lobe and slip the rocker over the adjustable rocker arm ball pedistal. Make sure the pedistal is as low as it can go and make sure the lobe of the cam is facing up on the valve you're replacing the rocker for. Make sure your cam sprocket is properly attached to your timing chain etc so that when you turn your engine by hand you dont get piston to valve contact. Stock valve springs are easy to push down, aftermarket heavy duty ones are a lot harder. Think about what I've said carefully, it's not too hard really and don't undo any cam towers...... Cheers and good luck with it

Turbo stroker....mmmmmm nice! Get a better balancer....you've gone to the effort with everything else. 2 cents Cheers and good luck.

Curious about the magnets on the sump....the crud just stays attached to the sump until the engine is pulled for freshening I assume? Aren't some 'over the counter' oil filters made with magnets in them for this reason? Do you recommend their use? Thanks for your input Tony.

Hey, I have a question about breaking in oils. I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with Brad Penn oils and whether or not it's worth using this stuff on a freshly rebuilt L28 turbo? How long would be long enough to use the oil and then what grade of oil should I use after that? The engine will be turbocharged, run a JE ringset and have standard bearings. There is a Turbo oil pump in there and the camshaft and rockers are new. (The search function is retarded!! Put in the words 'breaking in oil' and I was told that I can't use words with 3 characters or less! Huh? Here's one: WTF!!)

Do you read your personal messages Dennis?

Mate, gotta love your work here! Well done and thank you for the factual and visual information.

I put one of these ignition boxes (MSD6BTM) in the cabin with me at one point. I found that they are quite noisy when the engine is idling. Keeping the box in the cabin keeps it looking like new. Now that its in the 'bay, it's beginning to show its age, but it still works perfectly like Drax's unit does.