drunkenmaster

but the mechanism is in the hatch, it would mean routing the cable up around the hatch, down the rear 1/4 panel etc etc, probably doable but not very practical im thinking ? Anyway, all this talk will make me look more into modifying the OEM mechanism, as having the hatch release mechanism outside of the car near the plates is asking for trouble I guess

thanks for that

I dont have any locks with my shell so I havent really had a chance to look at the mechanisms. With the solenoid method you describe, im not sure, but I doubt it would be easy at all to remove the trim and manually override it in the event of a solenoid failure or flat battery. This is my major worry, call me paranoid I always like to have a mechanical back up to electrical systems that may hamper general usage of the car. I also havent got the tail light panel so im not sure if it is possible to hide the catch mechanism behind it or not, you guys may be able to help me on this one I was going to continue to look around at other cars with hopefully slimmer catches.

I have been looking at my brothers z31 300zx and the mechanism would transfer over fine except for the fact that the latch is on the bottom edge where as it is on the hatch lid for the 260z. This is no big deal, i was just goint to copy the z31 setup over to the 260z with some custom brackets BUT where the latch mechanism fits nicely on the inside of the z31, it would have to sit outside of the car on the 260z. Go out and have a look at your car if you dont know what i mean, the hole where the catch would drop through from the hatch leads to the outside of the car near the numberplate and thats where the catch would have to go.......still thinking about solutions

im about to start removing all the underbody sealant/tar with and anglegrinder and wire wheel attatchment. after that it will get a coat of POR15 and then some new underbody deadener. I have been told that you can apply a topcoat directly over por15 after 3-4 hours when it is touch dry but still tacky. if you let it dry completely you will need to rough it up and/or tiecoat.

Im planning to pull out the diff on my zed today or tomorrow and was just wondering if there is any advice out there as I have never done it or seen it done before. Do the drive shafts on each side need to be removed? I have done some searches, it seems like some people do and some dont, and there is a lot of talk about marking both sides so they are orientated the right way on reassembly by matching up the marks? any ellaboration on this? Any other beginner pointers would be great, im sure removing a diff is pretty similar on most rwd cars, im really keen to do as much to this car myself as possible. Also i assume the car much be on stands as once the transverse links are disconnected from the crossmember/diffmount the rear wheels will lose inward support and no longer be able to carry the car? i maybe wrong? any graphical help would be good too Thanks guys

if it is clean metal you need the metal ready but it is not very expensive. The marine clean i was told is not necessary, and wax&grease remover will do.

I pulled the tank and it was very easy, the one question i have is how do i remove the filler neck from the car or do i have to destroy it. Im sure im not seeing something but from what i can tell there is a rim around the fuel intake that is too large for the neck to be pulled into the car through the hole and there is a large ribbed bend where the neck joins the tank which is too large to be pulled into the car the opposite way through its hole, so im stuck. Thanks

have a look at my chunky thread about 5 or so posts down

Hey, kind of off topic but some of you aussie guys should check out http://www.thezgarage.com/ , it has a struggling forum which could use some extra members as well as tech knowledge from some of you guys. Sorry for the off topic.

Well the dash is the big question, I have a '74 2 seater shell so I need the full dash, heater, fan etc etc and there seem to be a lot more 2+2's around to scrap than 2 seaters. Thanks

I knwo this topic must be covered a lot, but the search results im getting are very vague and if i try to narrow it down, i get nothing. ie. i put 2+2 into the search and got no results. Anyhow, I assumed the front guards, doors, dash, and tail light panels can be carried over? Im probably wrong

Does anyone know if a 2+2 dashboard would fit a 2seater of the equivalent year? Thanks

"I measured mine to be 88 ohms Empty, and 8 ohms Full" care of Pete Paraska's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/index.html

Head units require a permanent power line, an accessory power line and a ground, thats about it to get them running. Then its up to you to connect speakers and an antenna. Using a multimeter or test light you can find an accessory line like the cig. lighter suggested. Instead of disconnecting it you can simply splice it and solder a wire across to your stereo for the acc. line. Splicing is fine as this line is used just to switch the unit on when the car is on, the power is drawn thorugh the permanant battery power. The permanent power (battery power) could be taken from your fuse box or taken directly from the battery with an inline fuse. The ground can be taken from the chassis (clean metal) or spliced into the ground wire of another device such as the cig. lighter or a ground wire can be run to the ground source for the rest of the loom.

Any opinion on this?

hehe, sorry by "find" I meant "like". ie. How did you like the POR15 silver high temp paints? the finish is hard to see We had a friend stay over from the US over christmas and its amazing how many times little things caused confusion, little nuances in the english language from country to country.

Is there any consensus or objection that POR15's "Metal Ready' is a similar product to "OSPHO"? thanks

nice site, wish i had a rotisserie How did you find the POR15 silver high temp paints? the finish is hard to see

Im not sure why people are having the filler neck problems, whats the trouble with the connections? Would making up a new filler neck from some exhaust piping make life any easier in regards to these problems?

It depends I guess how prone Zed's are to rusting around this area' date=' the history of my Zed is hazy at best, so I am assuming nothing. How is the filler neck attached at either end. I was planning to make up a stainless steel filler "bucket" behind the fuel cap to replace the rotten old one and as far as I can see the filler neck disappears below the floor pan.

Im contemplating pulling out the fuel tank in the search for rust. Is it a common place for rust to form between the body and tank? I have read alot in searches about people have trouble removing the filler neck, what exactly does this mean? Is this the only hastle about removing and reinstalling? Is it straight forward or should i go buy a workshop manual? Thanks again guys

http://www.eastwoodco.com/ Under rust prevention this group seem to have some decent products also. Their Oxisolv sounds similar to the OSPHO described above. Too many choices, looking for easy answers here