drunkenmaster

Could everyone please link to or post images they have of the rear dipstick locations on their RB blocks? There is no definitive thread (with pictures) covering this aspect of the conversion, almost everything else has been though. The information I have so far is that RB20/26/30 are factory drilled in both locations and the rear is plugged with a brass fitting. These can be pressed out and swapped to the front and vice versa. The RB25 is embossed but needs to be drilled. Correct? I will confirm with my RB30 block when I get back home in the new year. Thanks

I am wavering on my purchase of the Ford XR6T GT3540 for my 3.0, as you may know it has the 1.06 rear and 0.5 front. 1.06 is a little big but I hope the smaller front will help. I have read a lot of arguments both ways on the 0.82 vs. 1.06 on the 3.0 using a GT30, 0.64 seems out of the question for even the 2.5.

A couple of local cars do it and run a custom tank, so its not that outrageous. That tyre foam makes a mess on your rim though.

There are sellers on ebay USA. carmate sell them in NSW, but nearly all the ones available in Australia are cheap taiwanese copies sold at 1000% profit. I have seen some really nice carbon ones in Japan but they start at about Y30,000 (almost $350AUD).

Check out the link for details and pics, way too many to link to individually http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19690

Pretty sure this type of question has been covered tens of times. I think you should search for those topics instead. FWIW, first time i used wire wheel, second time I sandblasted. (sandblasting often wont take off thick rubberised/bitumen coating though)

Sorry to ask so many questions, but since I was doing the same things at home before I was transferred to Japan, I am interested to see how you have done them also. On your site you mention it is easy to reverse the RB25 release bearing, and I cannot remember the exact process I did with mine. I was wondering if you can recall which way is correct. This is a photo of me installing mine earlier in the year: I do not recall any writing on it as mentioned on your site.

Excellent idea, a properly photo documented write up is bound to help countless members as well as answer the same A/C questions which are posted every few weeks. fastzcars, do you have a photo of the bulkheads used, these are what I seem to find on the VA website. Did you have to drill additional holes in your firewall to use?

Looks like a well sorted kit, very interested to see how the 260Z trans mount works, is there a time frame on that? Also a question to the above, are you worried that lifting the gearbox might affect the tail shaft angle? I know it is a bit forgiving with angles, but I am not sure how much you have to play with.

$5k for a 1-2 year old motor or $6k-$8k for a 10 year old motor. $5000 is not expensive for that.

I found someone with some spares from an RB25DET, thanks again for the heads up. Just out of curiousity, did you use any sort of grease on the friction/rubbing points on the transmission fork?

No, 260Z I was talking about the Nissan brackets from transmission to block. I have to find some and make sure that they will suit my 3.0L block. I bought an RB25DET trans but those brackets were not included.

Nice work on the updated website there! I didnt even know those transmission support brackets existed, I will have to try and source some as i dont have any. I bet they will be a pretty obscure part to find.

Try: http://www.sssautomotive.com.au http://www.ekw.com.au http://www.adelaidejap.com.au http://www.jaustech.com.au There are many import wreckers in australia, they are just a few. The links are from memory, if they fail, just google the name.

The problem with the RB25DET box is that it does not fit between the slide through pin mounts. If you want to make something for this, really the only option I see is some tunnel weld on plates with new mounting points. I was looking at doing this early this year as a kit but the fact that measuring and welding has to be done regardless I thought might make it less attractive for people to buy, as it wouldnt be much more effort to complete the whole job. Good luck though, great work on your car and your website.

How do you plan to do the 260/280 trans mounts? Was your car the early bolt "up" trans mount or the trans tunnel mounting "ears" style. Thanks

Check out the Ford Territory (Australian SUV) which Nizpro have put one of these motors in: http://www.nizpro.com.au/outlaw_terror_main.html Also check the site for some of the most developed XR6T engines so far. As for as cost goes, i have seen crate motors pop up on ebay.com.au, not as prohibitive as you would think when you consider its a brand new motor.

I am pretty sure they are in Australia, hence the .au Does anyone with a late S30 dash, i.e. 1977 have an issue with elongated centre triple guages? Mine look like they have somehow sagged to and oval rather than a circle over time, or were late models made like that?

If you have a look at one, it is essentially the 200ZR sump with and extra low bowl added. I didnt use that because I was worried about ground clearance. If you used it, naturally you would use the matching pickup from the RB30 patrol (no patraol used RB25).

Great motor, reasonably popular in Australia for conversions into all sorts of cars. Getting a manual transmission behind them is the problem, can be done though. I am not sure about the US, but here they can be had for well under $1000USD so it would be a shame to destroy a "new lexus" for that sort of money.

Great site, I actually only just clicked the pictures for the first time and saw all the info behind them. I see you are sizing a lot of the bolts which is a great help for those who are missing them, like myself. Do you happen to know the bolt sizes required for mounting the transmission to the motor?

Thanks, I do have the frame rails extended rearward, you commented on them in my old classiczcars thread. I will get a cage done, the purpose of this thread I guess was just to sell it to myself as it is a considerable expense. I am thinking of an inobtrusive full cage if possible as side intrusion bars are something I would like as I remember from driving the Z's I have owned, I was never confident in anyone surviving a side impact with the body design the way it is.