drunkenmaster

Do you have any websites on this product? I saw it mentioned a few times in the searches. Is their a general consensus on hybridz about which method is best for treating surface rust or is a bit of a "N42 or P90" debate Thanks

Thanks for all that, looks like the way I will do it. Anyone have any alternative ideas?

Thanks for the reply. Still feels strange to me to leave the rust there Do you know if you have to use their primer coat before applying deadener over the POR15? thanks

Looking at the clock, suprisingly I have just spent 3 hours reading "back logs" on this topic from this forum, very interesting but now if I could clear up a few issues it would be great. With a fresh coat of paint on the outside and engine bay of my '74 260Z, It's time to attack the inside. I can see some visible surface rust in the passenger foot well and some more creeping through the sealant inbetween the tool compartments and tyre well. What I was hoping to do was scrape/wire brush/wire-wheel the interior floor pan back to metal, hopefully the surface rust is just that and gets brushed off, then re-seal and sound deaden it. My question is, from what I read POR15 is pretty popular among Hybridz members but from what I gather it is an inhibitor for the furture, not a treatment for current rust? If this is the case, should i use a rust converter on the troubled areas (even assuming I can scrub the rust off) and then apply POR15? Any recommendations on converters? Or is there another way I should attack this problem? In regards to sound deadening, I saw a lot of member using "bed liner", im not sure what this is but it looks similar to bitumen under body deadener. Is this stuff safe to paint on directly over the top of the POR15? Another thing I am worried about is the underside of the floor pan, but the previous owner promised he had scraped all the deadener off the underside, fixed the only minor rust he found and applied new deadener, but judging by the nasty suprises i found on the exterior body, i am quite wary.....aside from stripping the underside deadener, I guess there is no way to check this. Thanks Guys

Did a search with no luck, can anyone tell me which year 260Z's can share the same dash? Thanks

thanks

1) will a 240Z tail light "cluster" fit onto a 260Z? Modifications required? 2) has anyone acheived a working hatch release, so the hatch lock can be deleted? If so, did you use the standard mechanism or that of another car? 3) I have a '74 260Z, I was told only '74 and '75 dashes would mount up correctly, is this true? Thanks guys.

i think there was a 240Z in the trading post in melbourne with a genIII. Asking price started at $25k but went down to $15k over a few weeks before the ad stopped, would have been a good buy as it was restored, but i didnt have $15k at the time

a supra 5 speed can be adapted easily enough, more so than finding a manual box for the VH45DE

If anyone knows anything at all about fitting a cabin release or remote release to a 240/260z please let me know, I need to know asap as bodyworks on my car start next week and i want to know if it is possible to shave my hatch lock. thanks

Has anyone successfully connected a boot release mechanism to one of these cars? If so what car did they use the mechanism from as the locking mechanism on the Z car is on the hatch and as far as i can tell you would want it on the frame so you can run a cable to it. perhaps from a 280zx? Thanks

Hey Guys, I was considering doing a similar thing to a Z shell I have but am a bit worried about spray/paint on deadener as I was thinking its going to make it impossible to access bare metal to keep an eye on maybe future rust or any other sort of repairs. What are your feelings on this? Also I assume the paint on stuff will insulate the body from water and rust, hopefully not retain water? Thanks

there sure is and its a nice sounding motor on paper...more attractive than the lexus to me anyways. there was however a rare photo posted here a while ago, the link is broken now, with a Z with the VH45. If you thought the lexus quad cam was a tight fit youre in for a shock when you measure up the nissan motor.

has this tailight setup been posted yet? http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/featurecars/natsdats00/natsdat200030.html

thanks heaps, you the man

That would be great. Im planning to buy another zed after my final exams coming up which will still be around a month away so there is no huge rush. Thanks.

I remember some talk a while ago about someone transfering all the Zoom magazine articles to CD and then that person planning to upload them? Did anything eventuate? The reason i ask is i beleive the car is now for sale for $18K (AUD) and while im not really out to spend that kind of cash initially, i may be persuaded but i cant find any info on the car online. Datsun 240Z, 1971, Zoom magazine project car, twin turbo soarer engine, big intercooler, polished pipes, Supra 5 speed, R200 LSD, big brakes, chrome 17in rims, custom suspension, good trim and stereo, fresh paint, 11 months rego, all receipts, engineering and Dyno sheets, extremely fast, no dreamers please, DAT-240, $18000 SILVERWATER 0419-27 4906

Thanks guys so far. As far as i know most L28E's in australia have a strange twin throttle setup, one larger and one smaller to prevent reverse flow or something strange? Thats exactly what i want to do. Find a single throttle plenum and weld a plate on to accept a nice big single XF or commodore throttle. Simon from Zbuild.net told me he found his nice big single throttle manifold at a wreckers and it is of unknown origin. I havent seen the OEM twin throttle body in the flesh, as all the L28's have been running carby's that i have looked at.

Bosch, only pumps i would buy new.

Hi guys, I cant get the search to work so i will have to ask first hand. Which L6 uses a single large throttle body inlet manifold? I want one for an L28 but I as far as i know they come with the twin throttle setup?

found it: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2715

Does anyone have photos of where the casting numbers are on both the head and block of the L6's. Thanks

Manufacturer imported cars by nissan etc are fine, its just the private imports that are the insurance problem. Basicly its because you can buy a private import car like 1991 s13 silvia 2.0 turbo for $AUD10k or ~$US5k so every 18 year old wants one and can afford one but doesnt have the skill to drive one. Turbos became a bigger problem when the manufaturer imported subaru WRX became so popular as it could outrun police cars. Drag racing, Police pursuit and store ram raiding became popular and again, insurance on turbo cars went up. Anyways, back on track. Perhaps it is easiest to forget the above "gradual" plan and build a tough purpose built NA L28 and then swap the head and pistons for turbo when i come to that stage? What is considered a good NA L28 hardware combo? Lot of good info here: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2824/heads.html Is this setup agreed? i am a bit concerned about the complexities of "the modification" he talks about. Also are CV sharft required/a good idea? What is meant by L28 long motor as opposed to short ( i have seen these terms floating around various places)? Also is the 260z really that much of a better performance platform than the 240z? i few 240's are popping up for sale, but the 260 has a stiffer chassis right?

aahhh...found a few answers here: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000234 Any of you melbourne guys (as featured in the above thread) recommend a good wrecker to get my donor 280zx parts?

haha....no, recently with the flood of cheap turbo "grey" imports in Australia, if your car description contains the words "import" or "turbo" and your under 25 its a no no. I insured the last zed no problems, its the turbo that does it. As for not telling them, a friend of mine recently rear ended someone in his nissan s15 and insurance wasnt going to couhg up coz he hadnt declared aftermarket pedals!! I think if i dont tell them about a turbo I might as well save the fee's and go uninsured because either way they wont pay out. After doing some more reading the N47 head with flat top pistons looks good for NA but the P90 with dished pistons for turbo, possibly flat top pistons but perhaps 8.8:1 might be a bit high. Anyone from Australia have an indictation on pricing on L6 heads and pistons?