wrcbonk

No earth shaking knowledge here, but my understanding is that the most common issue with these engines is a blown headgasket.

Phil, I've waiting/hoping for you to decide to mate the two together. Looking forward to the swap. Bonk

If you haven't already, go to Sears and by a Craftsman 10 mm line wrench so you don't strip your line nuts like I did.

JB, I have been thinking about building a cross price that would go under the trans connecting the mount at the vertical drops. Its on the good idea hasn't happened yet list. Bonk

The last major "while its torn apart and I am there" project for my S30 for a while, a 4 channel amp and speakers. I already installed the MSA box with two Polk Mobile Monitor 6x9s. I was using a nice 2-channel amp that handled the 6x9s well (the amp is for sale cheap if any one wants it). The sound was ok, but as you know all the sound was coming from the back. I wanted more balance so I bought the front kick panels from Derek, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96446-kick-panel-speaker-mounts-now-available/ and found a pair of Polk DXi 5 1/4 spearkers from Crutchfield on sale. I wanted to take all the power supply off the stock harness. I shopped forever and finally found a good deal on the new ultra compact Punch 4-channel amp from RockfordFosgate. Its good for 300 Watts RMS. Figured that would be enough for a small cab like the S30. My palete below: I had a piece of Lexan I grabbed out of a bin at TAP Plastic in Sacramento, just happened to fit without cutting. I highly recommend Lexan for these projects, its inert, doesn't conduct well, and is easy to drill through. I used the old bushings I pulled off the sway bar to support the amp rack. Drilled holes and held the bushings in with JB weld. I made a couple quick braces out of angle and BadaBing. Then came the speakers. I found the full length kick panels will fit with a lot of wrangling. I decided to cut them down to make install easier. I mounted the relays and flasher using a combination of existing holes and drilling tapping the rest. On the passenger side I used the black plug at the bottom to anchor that side down. The Drivers side is held is fine without using the stock plug. The mess before the test. It sounds great. I am running the Fade at 2+ the front, but I am hoping after I read more about the settings on the amp more I will be able to set it to have lower frequencies going to the 6x9s and more mids and highs to the front 5 1/4s. Hope that was helpful.

Guys, Getting my RB25 infused 240z on the road has been derailed by an electrical "leak". Watch the video, keep in mind during the whole video the key is on the Lock position, so nothing should be running, but it is! Please, let me know if this is familiar or if you can say "hey dummy, do this..." Thanks Bonk

Just wanted to update anyone that is thinking about an intank fuel pump. My car is now running with the setup shown above. The car is not yet on the road. I will update the performance once I have thrown the car through some hard cornering. Bonk

I had the same idea, I tried over and over to find a way to fit it in front of the radiator support, then what to do about the piping? It was beyond me.

Ray, I responded to David's interest in tach ideas before looking at the INSANENESS you have going on under the hood. Good lord!!!!! My stocker isn't even on the road yet. Can't wait to see your mods live and in person. Bonk

David, I have a '71 240z with an inductive style tach. I am going the route shown in this link. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/37376-getting-your-early-240z-tachometer-working-with-an-msd-6-series-ignition/ I may have to play with resistors to get it right. I will let you all know. I have all the stock gauges working (functional, accuracy is still up in the air) except for the tach. Bonk

Thanks guys I am very motivated to roll up in running car at next years, hybridz BBQ.

Thanks, wedge it feels great, still lots to do to get it on the road. Got the oil pressure and temp gauges running tonight. Ray and s30rb25, my harness was so mangled that I opted to buy an entire new harness. I didn't send them anything. I just plugged in my ecu and made a few connections. Bill

Fixed it. Had the turn signal flasher plugged into the door light switch (grounded).

I was very happy with the service. The owner, Yury, is very responsive to e-mails. My understanding is that they build these to order, so you will want to get an idea of their schedule for completion. If its an R33 they will need to know the series and what kind of ECU. The only thing missing from the harness from Wiring Specialties was a plug for the boost solenoid controller. It doesn't matter because VENUS didn't give me the solenoid when I bought the engine anyway and they didn't return my e-mails or phone calls asking about the part, thanks VENUS! Excuse the rant. I have worked with lots of people getting things done for my project. Yury is tied for first with the old machinist guy who made my fuel tank nut ring for $40. Bonk

Well as soon as I got my rb25 to run in my S30 a pretty bad electrical gremlin has reared its ugly head. I noticed when the car was running that the gages weren't reading. Also the turn signals and brake lights were out. We started trying to track things down and noticed the flasher wasn't working either and noticed the 20 amp flasher fuse was blown. We (me and Rejracer) started unplugging things trying to isolate the bug. We were able to turn the key to On without blowing the flasher fuse, but then the stop 20 Amp Stop fuse blew. We looked at the FSW wiring diagram and started unplugging the following deviced to try to isolate the problem: 1) Hazard Switch 2) Blinker Switch 3) Stop Switch 4) Turn Signal Switch 5) Hazard Flasher 6) Rear Harness to Break Lights 7) Front Harness to Blinker Assy's Came to the conclusion that one of the (non-ground) wires on the Dash loom must be grounding/grounded. So we unplugged the flasher switch and the battery and started looking for wires with no to low resistance (ohms). The FSM wiring diagram for a 1971 240z shows the Hazard Switch wired as follows: Ohms 1-G/W Flasher 0.L 2-GR Front TS 1.0-1.2 3-GB Front TS 26.2 4-G +12v 0.2 5-B Flasher 53.9 6-GY +12v 0.L 7-GY To stop switch 0.L 8-WB Brake TS 1.6-1.4 9-WR Brake TS 1.4-1.6 One problem I don't have a Black wire, I have two Green wires. So the results of 4 and 5 are either good or need to be switched. Assuming the low Ohm readings on 2, 4 or 5, 8 and 9 are a problem. We wiggled the harness and weren't able to get anything to improve. Let me know if anyone has had this kind of problem. Bonk

My original harness was damaged before I got it and then made it way worse. So I bought a completely new harness. You can save by having them modify yours, but then you don't get brand new everything. Bonk

I finally got my RB25 to start, even idle. It was a comedy of errors between coolant and fuel leaks, but its running. Check out the videos. The first one is the actual second start from yesterday (with substantial help from Rejracer) and the second video I made this morning. Still have lots to do cleaning up electrical, finding an exhaust solution, generally putting the car back together. Bonk

All I had to do was mention rayaapp2's name in my e-mail request and that was all they needed from the standpoint of specs. There is more than adequate overlap of the material to clasp the leather to the console underneath. Bonk

I also bought an outer shifter boot from these guys. I got the traditional black leather with green stitching. Very nice product. FYI - got my car running last night. Will post a video soon. Bonk

I read your last post and had a question about how to handle boost control. I did not get a boost control solenoid with my engine. My plan was to hook up a simple manual boost controller that would run in between the reference on top of the turbo and one of the ports on the Freddy manifold. I was assuming the boost control needed to "see" boost, i.e. be inside the plenum, post throttle body, BUT I am just getting started with turbos. I am hoping to catch up with you on a running car soon, I have power to my starter and fuel pump, just want to button up the intake before trying to start it. Thanks Bonk

David, I went with the same company Rayapp used. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101231-custom-shift-boot-options-for-your-rb-z/page__p__948619__fromsearch__1#entry948619 Bonk

David, I believe this is the right link to what I ordered. I would try to make sure with MSA. It took them several weeks if not more than a month to fill the order. They told me it was a special order part. ZT-R was able to use the stock one. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SIC02I02/40-6125 Hopefully this works. I have had trouble with these links in the past. Bonk

ZT-R, I tried the stock boot, but it ripped when I tried pulling it over the shifter and once it was in place it wouldn't stay put when shifting forward. The PO cut out part of the tunnel. Anyway, glad yours worked, one less thing. Bonk

Pat, It was probably pretty funny to see me sitting at my computer when I realized the mistake. I thought everything was fine then I went to check to see if the post was up I started saying what I didn't mean to write over and over again. I immediately tried to go in an edit the post, but as you may know, you can't edit the Title or Description. Bill

Please excuse my French I meant ShiFter boot, sorry. Bonk