wrcbonk

I agree with Sideways. I ran a modified stock tank with internal pump for a while, but it lacked baffling. Under corning the FPR would cut the power. Never heard any detonation, but its very unsettling and potentially dangerous to lose power instantly. I installed the BC Broncos surge tank using the smaller vent line for the return. The low pressure feed pump makes a low rumble that I don't mind. I am using an external Walbro to feed the rail, that things whines as all Walbro externals do. Have had some venting issues, but that's my fault because I am using a universal hose for the large vent line instead of ponying up for the pre-formed factory vent line from MSA.

I have a rb25 in my S30 and recently went through venting issues with the stock tank myself. I am using the smaller vent line as the return from my surge tank. That only leaves me with the big vent line. If that line gets kinked you have a really problem, in my case a volcano of full spilling out the filler. I used the inner hose support springs that prevent hose line from collapsing from Jegs. I also replaced all my vent lines with new from WestMarine. Check to make sure your vent canister is working correctly. All this stuff is cheap compared to a racing fuel cell. With a low pressure pump feeding a surge tank to a high pressure pump, I don't worry about throwing the car sideways. http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Pro-Lite-Inner-Hose-Support-Springs/1538547/10002/-1

I had the same notchy shift into 2nd as well. I put in a couple quarts of redline mt90 and a quart of gm synchromesh and that seemed to fix the notched shift.

Perfect way to fix a z31, but I am interested to know how and where the radiator was relocated. Very cool.

I used the smaller of the two vent lines located on top of the tall portion of the tank for my return. This works, BUT you must make sure the larger vent line has NO kinks or you will build up pressure in the tank and in my case have a fuel volcano out the the filler. Es no bueno:(

Guys, wanted to wrap this up. I went with an external system, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110485-bcbroncos-surge-tank-install-and-use/. If I come by an extra tank, I will consider separating the tank and trying an internal system again. My only issue with external is the noise of the pumps. But, it is nice to be able to fix anything that goes wrong and never think about the tank. Bonk

Update, After reading Tony D's post and giving it another go, I think I sourced my initial problem, inadequate venting. The setup I tried, using the smaller stock vent line on top of the tank for my return is ok. The problem appeared to be with the larger, top of tank vent line. It was kinked, which would account for air building up inside the tank and causing the boil over at the filler. I have been driving the car with this setup for several days without issue, including a fill up with gas. I also tried running the return from the surge tank through the 3/16ths return, that did I not work. The return fittings leaked. The stock return fitting on the tank is just too small for fuel injection return, but we knew that already. All in all, the system appears to work, but care is required when eliminating one of the redundant components of the vent system. Bonk

READ THIS! I found that you CANNOT use the upper tank vent line as a return and the tank return for vent. If you fill the tank air builds in the tank and forces fuel up the filler neck and vent hoses, which is bad. I returned the system to stock, which means I am using the stock return (3/16ths). So far no leakage from the surge tank. I will keep you all posted.

Ray, I assume you just put gt-r valve covers on your s2 rb25det, as opposed a new engine? Bonk

For purposes of mating the rb, a key difference between 240 and 280 is the stock transimission mount. Based on my experience and memory, the 280 stock trans mounting points in the tunnel make for a better platform to build a cradle style trans mount for the rb25 trans. In my Series 2 240z, the trans mounting points are two ears on either side of the tunnel. The stock trans cradle mounted to threaded inserts on the underside of each ear. The rb trans mount sits back a few inches (depending on mounts) from the intersecting line of the stock mounting points. I made a crude mount out of box steel. The mounting points are offset; that places a moment force (torque) on the mount both from the normal force of the trans itself and from the torque of the engine under load. Looking at what others have done mounting the rb trans into the 280z, this problem is avoided. As far as power goes, my stock rb25det powered S30 boarders on stoopid fast. Its somewhere in the 260 hp at the crank range. It doesn't take much in a 2,400 pound car.

Leon, Wow, damn! Your z is looking Legit! Looks like those guys did a great job. Congrats Bill

After kicking around many ideas I decided to go with an external surge tank and external pumps to feed the fuel rail of my rb25det in my 240z. I tried an intank fuel pump previously. The intank pump is the way to go for sure as long as you have adequate baffling and good general design. My problem stemmed from a poor design and using a rusty tank a buddy gave me. I started a thread on that. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94261-bonks-efi-fuel-tank/ I will update that thread with some lessons learned soon. Luckily I still had the original tank I pulled out of the car at the start of my project. It had a little rust, the local radiator shop was able to clean it out using acid and hot tanked it ($89). The key to my project is that there are no modifications to the stock tank. I chose to use the bcbroncos product, Accumulator Tank, ( http://www.bcbroncos.com/fuelefi.html ) scroll to the bottom the page. The tank is a converted remote oil filter. The guys at bcbroncos use this tank for their EFI conversions (if the customer does not want to spring for the intank solution). Fuel goes in the top, pass through the filter, there is a pickup tube that extends to the bottom of the filter where the fuel is picked up by the HP pump. bcbroncos added a third fitting (5/16ths) to the top of the modified oil filter to manage the return system (see tee fitting in website image). You plumb the return from the engine to one side of the tee and the return to the tank to the other side. I am feeding the surge tank with a low pressure Airtex 8016S pump. On the engine side of the surge tank is a high pressure Walbro GSL392 pump. The obvious problems with this kind of are the following: 1) Mounting everything (there aint much room) while staying away from the exhaust and the suspension and anything else that moves (rips). 2) Return Pressure Part A - there must be free flow from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to the tank. If the system lacks enough return capacity (adequate fuel line inside diameter), pressure can build up in the surge tank. In this case that is not an option because the tank is nothing more than a thread on filter. People have reported problems with their bcbroncos accumulator tanks leaking. I suspect that is because they did not have adequate return capacity to the tank and pressure built up inside the surge tank. 3) Return Pressure Part B* - if there is not free flow after the FPR then the HP pump has to work under load and will get HOT! = BAD for pump and WIRE! If the HP pump is working hard and getting hot then the WIRE feeding it juice is getting HOT. 4) Noise of external pumps (live with it) * - source Tony D. 1) After looking around the back of the car for a while I found a cluster of three threaded holes. I made a plate (1/8-inch) and threaded M6 hardware into the holes. I use the plate as a base to weld an extension out of some small box tubing. This was needed to move everything away from the Mustache Bar. I welded another plate to the box tubing, drilled to accept the surge tank and pump mounting plate (16-gage sheet metal). 2) After exchanging emails with Tony D, I was convinced that I needed to increase my return capacity to the tank. I already replaced the little pinner 3/16ths return line with 5/16ths when the drivetrain was out. But the stock tank has that 3/16ths return above the 5/16ths pickup. I decided to swap my usage of the 3/16ths return line with the smaller top of tank vent line (@ 5/16ths or a little bigger. At this point you simply need to make a 3 to 5/16ths adapter to plump the stock return to the vent tank. 3) After doing some research on the amp draw of the pumps and exchanging emails with Yury at Wiringspecialties.com we decided that I would be OK running both pumps over the stock 10-guage wire that runs from the back of the car near the tank (Nissan ran it back there to allow for an optional electric fuel pump on the carburated cars) to the front (Green wire). I am monitoring the wire (grabbing it to see if it gets hot) as I've running the cat over the last few weeks and have felt to heat at all. The Walbro has never gotten hot at all. The LP pump gets warmish, but not hot. 4) The Airtex pump makes a lot of noise (grumble) at idle. Can't hear it when you are underway. It doesn't bother me. Priming the system, I disconnected the power and ground to the Walbro and cycled the car in the ON position running the LP pump. I waited until I heard gas falling from the vent fitting back into the tank. I connected the HP pump back up and went for it. Damn thing started right up. Crazy. The Bad/weird part. When I shut the car off the LP pump continues to run for a second or two. I have a an inline fuel pressure gage in the engine bay. After I turn the car off it reads @ 25 psi pre-rail. After 20 minutes or so the pressure bleeds off. I am concerned this may not be good for the FPR. BUT the remnant pressure is great for one thing, starting the car back up. When I had my intank setup. I had to prime the system in the ON position everytime I started the car. Now, no need, the fires right up on the the first crank everytime. Thanks for reading. Bonk

A few pics of my rb powered S30. The car has run on the road, but for the moment it's in normal position in my garage (awaiting surge tank install). Specs: pretty much bone stock Freddy FFIC Porsche style remote blowoff 9 lbs of boost Ebay intercooler

The temp sensor is easy like Ray said, but be smarter than me. Put a dab of rtv on the temp sensor threads or you will NOT get coolant weeping out when the system gets hot. The tach depends like ray said. I have a '71 so I was stuck with the super old school 4-wire tach. I tried a lot of different things to "amplify" the tach signal coming out of your rb wiring harness and no dice! I finally threw my hands up and ordered an auto meter tach. I have some pics of the pod swap if you need them. Its not rocket science, you just need to not be in a hurry and enjoy geeking out on stuff like retro fitting new signal indicator lights. Bill

Ray, You may remember my experience. My Series 1 rb did not come with the boost solenoid and supplier shook their heads at me when I asked for it later. I ended up with a manual boost controller. Excited to hear you have a NEO6!!! Bill

Leon, I sat down and watched a couple of your videos. Car sounds great! My z is up on stands for a while. I just pulled the spindle pins out of the rear suspension assembly. It took a lot of effort even with a puller tool. I am gearing up to remove the outer bushings themselves from the transverse links. I a bearing installer that I was going to try first. I have heard people have to resort to cutting the outers out. What did you do? You may have already discussed this in the thread, sorry in advance if you already covered it. Bill

Let us know how those 350z seats work out. I am using parts store seats and they are too wide. Thanks Bonk

Yep, everbody was right, not enough baffling. I didn't destroy my engine (YET), but I have had several 'cut outs' or losses of fuel pressure. So now I am in the process of trying to decide which of the many options would work best: add baffling to existing tank, build up a whole new tank with baffles and stay internal pump or go with external surge tank and exterior pumps. Leaning towards surge tank and external pumps. I already plumbed a second new 5/16ths hard line underneath the car and I own a spare unmodified 240z gas tank. If I go external surge tank, can I get away with using the existing 1/4-inch return fitting on the tank???? Or do I have to modify the tank no matter what for EFI? I have decided that I think modifying gas tanks kind of sucks. I am going to do some research before asking dumb questions about whether I need multiple pumps and how I would control all that with my fuel pump relay and signal from the ECU. Hint Hint, if you already know please hit me with any advice here:) Thanks Bonk

Fauxre, If you look back into Ferrari's achive paint colors, they had a very nice dark green back in the 60s. Might work very well for your car, which is awesome BTW! Bonk

"And I'd GLADLY welcome a well done 4 cylinder, as long as we're talking about getting the chassis down under 2800lbs. It's extremely sad to me that the "smaller, lighter, silvia" was HEAVIER than the S30. Just no excuse imo." Gollum, pretty sure the weight is from the airbags, crumple zones, electronic crap (electric windows, locks, etc.) Not that I am criticizing airbags, I am keenly aware of their absence in my S30 when I am flying around a blind corner or get passed by a diesel powered monster truck. Someone else mentioned the new 3.0L in a lightened chasis, thats probably the best we can expect. Nissan had to do something, they built and priced the 370 right out of the market. As far as inline 6s, BMW is still in the ring and Volvo came out with the new T6, there is still a glimmer of hope Nissan will come back to their senses, but I doubt it. Bonk

I agree with Rayaapp2, well done!! Keep us updated.

Danny, If you look at the pics of my radiator, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101003-rb-taurus-fans, you will see that I am using a replacement z radiator with the inlet moved to one side. I took the radiator to a radiator shop and they moved it over for $80. Pretty steep, not typical work for them. This is not totally necessary you could run plumbing to the stock location. Bill

John and Tony, I am curious what you think about the method recommneded in this link http://www.continentalcarbonic.com/dryice/weld-tanks-with-dry-ice.php for evacuating famable gas vapors from a tank. The author suggests dry ice pellets (CO2) will "sublimate" into CO2 gas dissplacing oxygen from of the tank. Basically it sounds like the same concept at using exhaust gases like Tony was saying. I simply like the idea of being able to monitor the progress of the pellets. Bill

X3, that is the direction I am hoping to take my z. Bonk

Great work Logr, have the same issue with my efi 240, can't wait to see if that fixes my issue. Bonk