wrcbonk

My junk is finally back on the road, lots of body and paint ahead. Bonk

Myron, I went to Autozone and asked for calipers for a 1987 toyota pickup and got calipers marked S12+8. They are lower profile and fit in my old school 15-inch rims. I ordered spacers from MM and bought 300zx venterd rotors. Stopping power is great. I did not change to the larger master cylinder (15/16ths) yet. Using the stock MS (7/8ths) there is more throw in the pedal. I like it, others do not. Bonk

280Dan, I am in the same boat as you. My application is a bit different, I swapped a rb25 into my engine bay, but there are lots of things I would like to reroute and "tuck" away. You may have already figured some of this out. You will want to start learning about all the different options for "plumbing" i.e. how you can replumb things to look cleaner and out of the way (without spending a fortune). On the electrical side don't be afraid to unwrap some of the loom and consider rewrapping and rerouting. One thing to keep in mind, keep your wiring away from hot areas in the engine bay, wires don't like heat! Don't be afraid to take things apart, just take lots of pictures. Other than that, I simply recommend working on one system at a time being mindful not to relocate a system where something else may need to go later. As mentioned above there are lots of pictures and ideas from many other z owners. With experience you will discover, as I have, what you can move around and what needs to stay put. My 2 cents Bonk

I bought my rb25 from Venus. I got a good engine from the standpoint that it runs and did not have to be torn apart and rebuilt. The problems were with the wiring harness and missing parts, for example the harness was battered and missing several important connectors. You need to know what you are looking for before going in there. Find someone in your local area who has an rb swap and spend some time getting to know the engine. Do not be in a hurry. Bonk

Yes, the shoe shuffle made it in. I was watching the video and thought "I wish I walked behind the camera not in front." Very mild exhaust, a 3 incher with a split gas j pipe would sound way better. Down the road. Bonk

Guys, Didn't want to leave anyone hanging. Cars on the road, here is the obligatory "revving the engine in garage video." Stay tuned for in car/on the road action. Bonk

Enjoy that car in its present condition for a WHILE...before you make any mods. You can't go back. Research how to set up those carbs and advance the timing to fully enjoy that engine. My 2 cents Bonk

I would create a "Parts Wanted" thread for a used stock fpr. You want to get a fpr from someone who used it in their car and then replaced it with an adjustable. You want something that you know has worked before. You can use it to eliminate the fpr from the problem. I went to RockAuto.com and searched for the fpr for a 1994 300zx, it looks strangly similar to the one on my car. The infiniti J30 is listed as a car using the same part. Prices varied from $60 to $90. I would confirm the part # before ordering, but I will be surprised if it isn't the same on used on RBs. Your other option is to go Aermotive. You will need to invest in some pricey AN fittings and replumb some stuff. It is adjustable. I will probably buy one some day after I buy a programable ECU, but until that day, its stock parts for me. Bonk

Sounds like the pump is getting jerked around by either the ignition signal or the fpr. I think your Walbro pump is fine. Assuming the Walbro Pump adjusts automatically for the required pressure (3 bar) like the Bosch 044. Pumps are pretty simple, they either work or they don't, I doubt there is anything going on there. So either the fpr regulator is bad or the signal coming from the ignition system powering the pump is bad (doesn't jive with the pump). Are you using any part of the Z31 harness to drive the pump? If so I would research how the stock (Z31) ignition system operated the oem electronic fuel pump. See if there are differences in how your system operates. I am using the stock fpr that came with my engine (R33 RB25). I am running a stock replacement (ebay cheapy) nissan RB fuel pump. I am powering the fuel pump through the RB harness and relays. No problems YET! Also check your ignition switch at the key (volt meter). Those switches do go bad. Bonk

Spoony, Your car looks great. I just my RB powered s30 on the road. The stock turbo spools up fast. For daily driving, I really like it. I can accelerate from 60 mph in 5 th gear and be up to ninty in a hurry without downshifting. I plan to stay with the stock turbo and gradually increasing the boost. I don't think you will be disappointed. Obviously if you want to make 300 plus you will have to have a programmable ecu to alter your afr's, change injector size and upgrade the turbo. Look forward to your progress. Bill

More stupid fixes or fixing stupid. As I reported the harness ends of the coils were switched on 1 and 2 causing major problems. We "fixed" that by switching the two around. But it still was missing as Ray heard last weekend. I was taking the ornament off to start pulling plugs and discovered the number two end of the harness was over but not snapped into the coil. We got so excited last time when we found the problem we didn't take the time to make sure of the connection. We pulled the plug and it looked brand new, because it was, it had only been exposed to fuel no spark. After plugging everything back in we started it. WOW as you might imagine its a new car, no missing. It will still backfire after shifting at high rpms. Robert doesn't think this is much to worry about. Learning Bonk

I am thread jacking my own thread, sure thats nothing new. The missing is generally gone. There is a slight studder/oscillation in the exhaust note when the car is first getting started at low revs. Then when I ring the engine at high revs there is a missfire right when I let off to shift. A friend says it sounds like the engine is running out of air at the highest rpms. My current air intake setup is less then desireable, the only thing missing from the pic below is a cheapo green mushroom shaped filter. The filter sits down near the bottom of the radiator and the front body pan. I think improving the intake may need to be my next project. Bonk

If you find a motor that you are happy with, be sure to take a long hard look at the wiring harness. Big gash marks exposing fresh wire are not good. Missing harness connectors suck as well. Little things like the stock mechanical boost controller, you will want that when you fist get it on the road. Check the exhaust studds, one of mine was broken off and had to be drilled out. Not a big deal, but things you want to know before drop down the cash. Bonk

Ditto that, Ace Hardware made a fortune off me.

Local is nice because you save freight. Not sure what your application is, but if you plan to put the engine into a rear drive nissan you will also need an RB25DET transmission. I paid $2000 out the door for a R33 RB25DET. The RB26 is far harder to come by, so $3K seems reasonable. Bonk

When crawled inside a early 90's civic to grab the interior fan (fits S30s) I noticed how small and compact the entire AC system was. Might be worth looking at the next time you are at the yard.

We used one of those old school hanging shop lights, the one with the exposed light bulb, take off the cage and put the bulb into the bubber end and it will soften it right up.

And the coil plug wires for cylinders 1 and 2 were backwards. THe car now runs and there is no miss. I am going to put a few miles to burn off any left over oil and gas and change the plugs to copper. THanks for the help guys. Bill

Here are the right ecu codes. CODE 11: CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT (8 STARTS AGO) CODE 21: IGNITION SIGNAL CIRCUIT (27 STARTS AGO)

The plot thickens. I started the car last night to see if the missing had changed. I started the car and it ran for 15 to 20 seconds and slowly died. I tried starting it again, it ran for 1 to 2 seconds and died. It will not start at all now. The battery is strong, providing more than adequate juice to the starter. The fuel pressure gage is reading 40 to 50 psi, it runs at 40, so I don't think fuel delivery is the issue. I tested the loom side of the CAS and it has power and ground ok. I am sure this is an ignition problem. I got two codes from Consult. Forgot to write them down, but this is what I remember. I will try to get them to come up again tonight. 20 - ignition signal failed 19 - timing signal failed

Ray, Thanks for the write up. Robert and I are going to start in on checking the fuel injectors tomorrow. Today we did a compression check, did a visual on the new plugs and the coil packs. Here are the compression numbers, they look good. Cylinder 1st compression 2nd compression final compresion 1 90 120 160 2 85 115 150 3 85 115 150 4 90 120 150 5 85 115 150 6 85 115 150 Here are pics of the plugs (1 through 6 left to right), 1 and 2 were discolored, Robert thinks cylinders 1 and 2 may not be firing right. We agree the miss sounds like unburnt fuel ingniting in the exhaust. We started the engine again after gapping the plugs and the miss is still there, but less frequent. That could simply be that the car was warm. I will start tomorrow cold and hear then. Thanks all Bonk

ZT-R, Yes, I used a timing light only to set the base timing, the video was confusing. Bill

Everyone needs a good Knob.

RS, Excellent suggestion, we will try that out. Here is the video I promised and two pics. I checked the timing again. Its set to 15 BTDC when in open loop, but I don't like the fact that the CAS has to be turned to near its limits to get the setting. When I bought the motor the CAS was set in the middle of the gaps. Not sure this means anything, hoping the timing belt is not a tooth off. Just had to throw a pic in of my new timing light. Things have changed in the last few decades, looks like something from the set of Battle Star Galactica.

Guys, My r33 rb25det has been running (on jack stands with no exhaust) for some time now as you may know. Well the other day I drove it over to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust done. It was a loud and exciting trip in morning rush hour traffic. Luckily the cops were huddled somewhere else. I asked for simple and quiet and thats what I got, nothing fancy, 2.5-inch from the j-pipe back to the muffler (magnaflow), traditional path of the exhaust. The one issue I had with the car before taking in was that it was a missing. I was hoping the exhaust would take car of that, but it didn't. OK before anyone says, "DUDE where's the UTUBE, this thread is worthless without a video!" I know I know. This first post is just a primer. Tonight I will go home and post a vid of the engine at idle and maybe a road test. So, what have a I done to try to fix the issue: 1) Replaced the Spark Plugs. I read on a 240sx thread that said worn iridium plugs can cause missing (I left the iridium plugs that came with the motor in, thinking "no need to change plugs until I have a problem"). I repalced with the factory recommended NGK PRF5G-11s. Still a miss. I DID NOT gap the plugs yet. I don't want to be a kill joy and stop this from turning into another "plug thread", but try to control yourselves:) 2) Set and checked base timing to 15 BTDC twice. I read the FSM and did the following, warmed the car up to get revs as close to 650 +/- 50 as possible, unplugged TPS and used timing light to check timing. I did remove the CAS during the install to repalce the timing goodies so not too surprised that the base timing was way off the first time I checked. But now I have checked it twice and it is 15 BTDC. And the engine still misses. 3) Ignition malfunction/spark in wrong plug coil - We pulled the ornament turned off the lights and missed water over the top of the plugs hoping to see a spark/arch from one coil to another. It was a long shot, gained us nothing, but worth a try. And the engine still misses. What I am planning to do next: 1) Run some kind a high test fuel additive/cleaner threw it to make sure the injectors are clean. Rejracer has a gallon of Xylene or some other dangerous chemical he has offered to let me use. 2) One night soon, pull the plugs and run a compression check. Like I say I will be back later with a video/audio of the miss. Thanks Bill