TheNick

Quick tip for the grinding - take some cardboard and cut a hole in it the size of the splined shaft end - place it over the shaft so that it pokes out and the rest of the CV is covered by the cardboard. This way you can grind away on the shaft without worrying about getting metal shavings in the grease of the CV. I did that yesterday and it worked very nicely.

Pop the endcap off the outer cv and grind off about 5mm of the splined shaft before the snap ring. Then put the end cap back on and install.

That website never discusses the flipping of the mustache bar, no wonder I had so many issues with front mount all day today...

Son of a...

This shows the opposite for mustache bar mounting? http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm my Black Dragon catalog shows the same thing Which one is right?

Nah its not your fault - I didn't buy one from you I made it myself

The center of the ES mount is 1-5/8" from the closest hole - which is the one on the left in the pictures (looking towards the front of the car in the pics)

70 240z - I have pictures - will post them in an hour or so once I finish getting the R200 close enough to take measurements for the front mount

I just went to install mine and its not even close to fitting. Where the strap mounted before - the bolt spacing is 1.25" - not 2.5" The holes are 3.75" away from hitting a bracket for the fuel lines. So um yeah, I guess I'm going to have to make some modifications to the mount...

Car looked loose and didn't have the nuts to stay up with the top RX7 and Meotter. Looked like a very frustrating race - battling your own car the whole time.

Sounds like you are unloading the inside rear and spinning the diff. What size rear sway bar? Try unhooking it. After watching the video - it could also be that you are bouncing off the bump stops in the front of the car - sounds like you brake and turn in and load up the outside front. Then the problems start happening. Are your shocks adjustable? Trying stiffening them up to limit the bouncing until you can go with stiffer front springs/front bar. What tires are you on?

BadDogParts.com for subframe connectors There are mounts available yes. Speedway Motors sells a 302/351 Universal chassis mount that will fit between the frame rails of the Z with no problem. The only issue is front sump vs rear sump oil pan. The front sump might run into the crossmember - I also think there may be issues with the crank pulley and the crossmember. Gimme 3 weeks and I'll let you know all the details - All I have left to do right now is swap the rear end for all the R200/Z31CV/5 Lug stuff and then I'm ready to mount the motor in the car - 1994 Cobra 302.

I had the exact same issues with the exact same person. Filed through Paypal and I got my money back.

I've got a copy of the CAD file for the Main hoop of a roll cage and I was wondering if anyone has the same type of thing for their door/down tube. I really don't want to pull my car out of the garage put it on a trailer and take it down to the cage builder if I can just send him a couple files and then go pick up the stuff. Oh - 240z btw. Thanks!

Dennis Grant makes some good points in his website and I completely agree on the subject of dyno plots. If a vendor is not willing to supply the plots either they don't have a clue what they are selling or they don't have confidence in their product. Dyno plots are a very very useful marketing tool and IMO vendors should take full advantage of it. I always skeptical of unproven dampers because of the large number of Asian knockoffs/cheap manufacturing. Even Koni yellows are iffy. Dampers are not something where 5 thousands doesn't make a difference. .005" could make a difference between a seal sealing properly and a huge amount of hysteresis and inconsistent damping. That being said - will the average street driver notice .005"? Hell no, thats they the Koni yellows are such a good value. But the step above that are the Monotube 28/30series Koni's and the Penskes, Motons etc. I'd even be willing to put the OTS Bilsteins above the Yellows because they are monotube.

Best place I've found to get exhaust parts: http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ Great customer service and high quality parts. The Aero Mufflers and Resonators kick ass too.

Xp

Mine will be EFI with a WC T5 that is found in the 95 Cobra's. As it sits right now - I have a JTR transmission mount that I will redrill, and a universal crossmember mount from TransDapt for the motor. Still need to order the motor mounts themselves and get the R200 mounted before I try to put the engine/trans in the car. The only problems I forsee with the actual mounting of the motor is going to be the crank pulley/oil pan and crossmember clearance. ECU will be one of the DIY tuners that are available for the EEC modules.

I planned on doing something similar when I get the time to put my Cobra motor into the 71. Probably won't happen till this winter at this rate. Way too busy of a summer with racing.

Does that Calmiini one work with Z31 29spline axles?

Did I miss any mention of what rear bar you are running? I'm partial to no bar on the drive wheels of a race car...

I think I read somewhere that you made custom brackets for the rear of your car? Want to make another set?

Hey guys - I've been talking with Ross a lot lately at MM and I've decided to go with Cobra front brakes and his brackets/front hubs (almost costing me nothing - I've already got the 95 Cobra sitting in the garage). The question is what to get for the rear brakes to match up well with the front. The car is mainly going to be an autox car so lightweight is going to be a concern. Any help? Thanks Nick

SSR Comps - very lightweight and expensive. Tend to bend easily on the street though.

Oh sweet that should save some headaches