Jump to content
HybridZ

Corzette

Donating Members
  • Posts

    832
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Corzette

  1. "are they really as strong as you say?"

     

    LASON' date='

    buy four,too place in your engine!

    [b']THEN let me know what you think![/b]

    if you don,t think, after playing with them for a few minutes that they are significantly stronger than most magnets,and as strong as I said,

    Ill buy them from you at the same price the site charges,as long as they are in good condition,

    (I use them constantly, no engine leaves my shop without them)

     

    Oh yes they ARE!!! Be very careful when you put them together in your hands as they will pinch the hell out of your fingers etc if your not careful. Seriously strong......ask me how I know:mrgreen:

     

    You can put one on the back of your hand and the other in the front and they will stick together...

     

    Terry

  2. hahahahhaha that was the funniest Z video i have ever seen.

     

    Of course dave has to be vin cuz hes the one hitting the gym everyday for the ladies...

     

    nice shoutouts to Vildini that was funny... too bad you punks are in corona or i would have made the video with you guys

     

    Wholly crap, thats bad ***. Would be cool if we could make our own HybridZ F^F MOvie? Too cool.....:mrgreen:

     

    Terry

  3. Congratulations! I was just looking at your photos, and I was wondering, how do you keep your hood down? I don't see any kind of latch or hood pins. Am I not looking close enough?

     

    Oh! By the way, in those pics I didnt have the locking mechanism installed yet. That was when Loren had the car and it was still in progress....sorry

     

    Terry

  4. Congratulations! I was just looking at your photos, and I was wondering, how do you keep your hood down? I don't see any kind of latch or hood pins. Am I not looking close enough?

     

    Yes I have a modified latching system that opens like the stock one from inside via cable but much smoother.

     

    Terry

  5. One other word of advice. This is all of our homes in cyber space so if any of us see a bad link, or info that is out dated, let the moderators know. They will fix the problem if they know about it. Sorta like our homes, we always complain to the wife when the house is dirty but we rarely do anything to help clean it up.....We can all make this a better place by being moderators to the moderators....out....

     

    Terry

     

    Yep' date=' because I have read well over 500 threads on this board and 95% start with "search for your answer".

     

    Im a member of over 20 automotive boards and have never seen it this bad. I condone doing a search but even simple answers are often shot down and threads locked without a answer as simple as "the gap of the plugs needs to be X.XX"". Of course I made that up but Im sure you will get the idea.

     

    Now that being said, I have found an answer for almost any question I have had by using the search function but the problem is the threads are so old that the pics, links, etc are now bad links.[/quote']

  6. Well good to hear theres more power. Ya gotta go back to the basics. Vacuum leaks, intake leaks, rockers set properly, good plugs, wires, cap and rotor not burnt, coil wires connected properly, good coil, plug wires on correctly and at last the fuel delivery, good filter, proper pressure thru out 5 to 7 PSI constant. Timing correct.....once ya get that figured out then you can play with the carb...sounds like the 670 will be much better...

     

    Terry

  7. Well' date=' in my world, mechanical fuel injection reigns and is king of the HP world and .700+lift roller cams are the norm. And it is the "tuner" that wins the races more often than not and an O2 sensor is the last thing I'm looking for, so you are correct you have to piddle around allllloooooootttttttt.

     

    I'm not sure about big lumpy cams, but the TT EFI motor with a gazillion HP sounds really nice. I think I'll build one just for the hell of it, after all Corzette has been sending me money to buy him parts, but he never said I couldn't use them while he was gone.

     

    So, what is the concensus on EFI and big lumpy cams? I would assume that since mechanical injection works with big mondo cams that EFI would share some similarities, but I think the MAS or MAF would create problems if you have alot of intake reversion from lots of overlap. There has got to be an EFI guru here to share wisdom.[/quote']

     

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....:nono:

     

    TBONE

  8. The stocks jets on that carb is 65 and 68. In my opinion thats too small. My car lost power with 66s up front. You will just have to play with it. My 350 runs pretty good with 68s up front and 76s in back on the double pumper. I would say try it like it is now and if you want more, up the primary jets at least 2 sizes at a time. I would say 68s in front for medium performance and 70s max for a 670. rears try to stay 3 to 6 sizes bigger. Usually 10 for a DP but with yours I wouldnt go that big a spread. Id try 68/71 and compare. All ya have to do is go buy some 71s and put the rears to the front. Looks like only a 3 size spread from front to rear on that carb. Thats just me...let us know how the comparison is from the 600 and go from there...

     

    Terry

  9. Pound, here ya go...hope this helps..

     

    http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10219-3.pdf

     

    Read this too..

     

    http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10308.pdf

     

    Check your primary and secondary jets. They should be 72 fronts and 75 rears provided they werent changed....

     

    Also there is a list number and production date on or near the front plate of the choke tower. Go to page 6 in the 1st link above and you will see the line pointing to it. It should be stamped there...

     

    Terry

  10. I was concerned about getting too large of a Cam for the engine so I wrote to Crane with the car specs, (Weight, tire size, rear axle ratio, transmission) and the Cam I was looking at. I was trying to recreate the performance level of one of the 270hp 283s from the early 60's Corvettes. To my suprise this was the Cam recomendation they gave me. (It was larger than my original selection) Looking back maybe I should have gone with my instincts. Oh well it should be a lot of fun to drive, I still need to mount my radiator and finish the exhaust before I can start it.

     

    Parts matching is a must for best perfornance. We all know that story. What does the spec sheet say for your cam exactly? MIne is 2500-6000. Peak torque is 4500. Dyno showed 4500-6129 respectfully. Comp Cams are usually pretty close. A convertor rated at 3500 will usually brake stall about 1000 below or so and flash there after. You also have to remember we are not launching 3300 pound sleds so the stall doesnt have to compensate for vehicle weight as much. Your rear gears will also have alot to do with cam selection etc. I would tend to agree with Jake in the fact that a 2500 stall would be better for street/strip but it would be nice to know what your numbers are real world before choosing.

     

    By the way, large cams will only hurt your power if you dont have the right heads to accomodate...been there done that!

     

    Terry

  11. I would go at least 500 above your CAMS starting specs...2500 plus 500 = 3000 stall. If you looking for more strip Id go 1000 above as did ZFan and myself. I cut .5 off the quarter just by changing my convertor. Street only is a different story...however your torque ban is pretty short so that confuses me....maybe better with less convertor to get a longer torque ban....my 2 cents.

     

    Terry

×
×
  • Create New...