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Corzette

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Posts posted by Corzette

    want a 3.9 LSD anyone?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Leith I want one too. If you can find a carrier let me know. I want a 3:70 ratio if possible. If I were back home I could send you my 411 but Im in Japan. What are the chances of getting this done and shipped to San Angelo 76901? I need it for my 280BBC.

     

    Terry

    Shopping In Japan

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Ok got some prices...

     

    The new emblems that say FAIRLADY Z I can get for about $35 including shipping. Not to bad and not available in the states. The side emblems that is the round one with the Z inside are about $26 in the states. I can get them to anyone in the US including shipping for about $21 or so.

     

    If we go to the 300ZX Style, NISSAN FAIRLADY Z I can get them out for about $15 including shipping. Ill have pics later but what a neat deal. Im gonna get a few to keep, Im sure they will go up in value as time goes on. Will look good on the CZ from the rear too. More to come. Actually I may just build a site on my webpage for certain items I have access too not available in the states. Going to AUTOBACS tomorrow!

     

    Terry

    Shopping In Japan

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Whew! I m coming up for air....Im going to a NISSAN dealer today to price the FairladyZ emblems for the 350 and the 300. I suspect the 300 may be a little cheaper. Is anyone interested in a set or single FAIRLADY Z emblems? I think the side markers are different too. Ill try to take some pics. Im not up and running yet just going outside the gate for a bit. Oh and I saw some BEAUTIFUL steering wheels down the street. Ill try to get some pics of those too. Ive never seen any like these in the states. They are like polished dark oak with a center horn button and 6 bolt mounting like the Grants. About $100 each here. Mounting kits are about $25. I gotta post some pics when I get my puter. Thats all I have for now but these steering wheels are the bomb and would look PERFECT on my 280ZBBC. Gonna climb Mt Fuji next month...HEY GRAET IDEA! How about I make a flag or something that says HYBRIDZ.ORG or such and take a pic from the top of Mt. Fuji? Would that be an original or what? That would mean we have been to the highest peak in Japan!!! Any suggestions????

     

    Terry

    Made It To Japan

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Thanks for the concern guys. Well Im just now getting a van for the family today...its a Honda StepVan (sorry to say that) but comes with GPS, TV and killer stereo and is a 1998 for only $3000 so I couldnt pass it up. We are going to Yokota tomorrow to look for another car FOR ME! We still have to find a house too. My shipment wont be in till late July and I wont be up and comfortable for about two months or so. After I get settled I will strategize on a side business. I have the contacts here already that will help me out. Id say in 90 days I can start making a list of parts available with prices etc. I really hope I can find several diffs axles calipers etc etc...but who knows. Ill try to take some pics of some of the cars here as I have already seen some TOTALLY AWESOME rides that are just AWESOME looking. Ill try to make a new album in my website for them. Ill be in touch!!!! Mike go get those 10s!!!

     

    Terry

    Made It To Japan

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Just checking in...we are finally here in Japan at the base of Mt Fuji. What a long trip! Ill post more later but am looking for local junk yards and the location of the Tokyo dragway. I will get some vids if possible of the local rockets to post sometime. Can anyone tell me what cars are good to look for parets from are. Silvias, Infinitys, Skyline GTS or GTR, Nissan types? etc...any input is good. Im wanting to score on diffs and axles if possible etc.. Ill be in touch...out.

     

    Terry

    R200 VLSD swap?

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    [Jsquared=quote']This is the only forum out of the numerous Nissan-tech-heavy forums I frequent that thinks the Q45 is an R200... I'm doubtful until I see it in the FSM.

     

    That is the second time I've heard someone who thinks they know Nissans say that. Have you ever actually looked at the FSM, or for that matter a 300ZXTT diff and the Q45 Diff next to one another? The ZXTT R230 is at least an INCH wider. There is a pic around here taken by Mike Kelly of my ZXTT diff next to his Q45 diff and the differance is obvious! IMHO, all other Nissan forums are for overexaggerating SR20DET's power potential.

     

    Jamie T I totally agree....LMAO! Its funny no one on the other forums ever post a slip with video.

     

    CZ

    Farwell My Friends

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    For two weeks anyways...just wanted to let everyone know my computer is being packed tomorrow and I will be down for at least two weeks while getting to Japan and setting up etc. My permanent EMail is herbalife63@hotmail.com if anyone wants to drop a line etc. So for now "To the land of the Ricing Sun" or is that Rising Sun???

     

    Zya

    Terry

    CZ

    Dyno numbers

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Terry' date='

     

    You mentioned that you are running a vacuum canister, so am I. What kind of vacuum are you making with that cam? I make about 10.5 to 12 inches of vacuum, hardly enough to power the brakes.

     

    Did you upgrade your brakes? I did and have had nothing but problems with them. I still have hardly any rear brakes at all. Before when I had drums in the rear my brakes were fine. I am running the 300zx/toyota 4 pots up front and the 240sx/300zx brakes out back. I have also put a 280zx master cylinder up front and swapped lines around like they said to do. Also pulled the stock perportioning valve out back and gutted it and still suck *** brakes. I am beginning to wonder if the zx master cylinder is a waste of time and go back to the stock 7/8" master cylinder.

     

    On the tires, 26" is perfect for me unless I go alot faster then problems will exist. I trap at 6200 rpm's at 121-122 mph.

     

    Mike[/quote']

     

    Mike you do need the adjustable Prop valve inline to equal everything out. You may check the master cylinder, did you upgrade the Booster to a 280ZX unit as well? The 240 is way too small for the complete disk upgrade IMHO. I had a huge difference when I changed to the bigger booster. You will need to redrill hole for that one to fit though..

     

    Terry

    Doing R230 Q45 Swap

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Tim, this thing weighs 114 pounds and is huge fat...has the pop in stubs with the 6 bolt pattern....BTW if its not a 230 thats cool. Im gonna put this puppy in. I wonder if the 300 axles will work? If not Q45 axles here we go..

     

    Terry

    Doing R230 Q45 Swap

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Guys just wanted to post that MAICHOR gave me a FREE Q45 R230 and all I did was pay for shipping on a bus from Dallas to SanAngelo. I picked it up today and was so excited. I was very impressed and grateful because when I went to get it, it was crated and professionally packed and looked great. He is a class act as I know he is very busy these days. Just wanted to say THANKS MIKE and I really appreciate your effort for a fellow Zer. Boy will I ever need this upgrade...Im stoked. Now I just need 4 Q45 Axles and Ross;s axles stubs adapters and front mount once he decides to make them. Thanks HybridZ for spawning such individuals.....

     

    Semper Fi

    Terry

    Dyno numbers

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Cool, the tranny will lock as soon as it hits third gear. The norm is lockup in 3rd and 4th. I always unlock after passing thru the traps. The 26x9 slick would be perfect. Wider like 27s on an 8 inch drag light you will need a spacer and fender clearancing or the car will just squat on the tires. I ran a 275 Nitto with spacer and didnt need any fender clearancing. Car just hit bump stops before hitting tires. Cant wait to see the results....GO MIKE GO!

     

    Terry

    Dyno numbers

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Titanium' date='

     

    Corzette/Terry,

     

    I am currently using the cam one step up from the one you use. It really sucks when it comes to producing vacuum. I get maybe 11 inches of vacuum from it. That is really tough on the power brakes! I am thinking of going to the 242/248 version of the extreme energy cam. I think it is the 292 model?

     

    I also have the lock up switch you were talking about it. It is controlled by a toggle switch on my dash. The only problem is at low speeds the car bucks and acts like it wants to stall if I throw the switch under 45 mph.

     

    I sure would like to gain the 20-25 hp that you all are talking about. Hell with some good sticky tires I could lower my 60 ft.'s and more hp who knows?

     

    Mike[/quote']

     

    Mike I suspect the bucking is coming from the cam lope and stroke being locked to the motor. Mine will do the same a little when I slow down. Sometimes I have to turn off the switch to unlock it but not always. I would only use it for racing or Highway. Next time out turn on the switch and launch just as u always do and let it lock in third and record ur findings. Again yes with the right tires you will improve the 60 foot and thus run quicker. Your MPH is def there for 10s. Giving up 2 tenths or better out of the hole will def yield you 3 to 4 at the end period. QTPs? BTW Im runing 275 15s so you should look at a wider tire maybe because I know your torque is way more than mine... oh are you running a booster can? I have the moroso can and it helps alot!

     

    Terry

    Dyno numbers

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Mike? heheh my names Bryan dude :D Anyways having a dyno database wouldn't really be a 'benefit' so to speak... it would just be something cool to have to look through the same way it's cool to look through the timeslip database. For me the two go hand in hand... the timeslip database is just a cool thing the mods did where others can go and see "hey... these guys with this particular setup are running this... cool to know". I've really never seen anyone come on the boards 'bragging' or really comparing like "heh my car is faster than yours!" I don't think anyone would do it with dyno charts either. It would just be interesting to see... as I said' date=' threads just like this one (someone showing dyno results) do usually garner a lot of attention, which means there must be some interest there for others to see what kind of numbers people are getting, I know I am... I mean hey, I'm over here on the V8 boards ain't I? ;) . I know I often go looking for old posts with dyno test results... it'd be easier if they were just grouped in one place.

     

     

     

    Well, how about it is anyone else interested in having a dyno test database to go along with the timeslip database or am I really the only one?[/quote']

     

     

    Hell I agree. I am interested in getting the best bang for the buck. I know people ask what is your intention for the car? TO GO AS FAST AND QUICK AS I CAN lol. With that said tested and proven setups just make it easier for others to follow. We all know parts matching is a must. I truely believe that if ANY Z on this board wins a race we all win. If I get beat by a fellow Zer it excites me cuz I know I can do better and learn from it. If you drive a Z your cool in my book! Now bring on the dyno database so I can figure out how to get this damn car in the 9s with out chopping it up....lol

     

    Terry

    Dyno numbers

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    corzette, So what is the max timming set at. What RPM is the timming all in, and what valve springs are you using? I'm asking because I have a very similar setup, and I'm running out of steam by 5500 to 5600 rpm max.

     

    FASTZ

     

    On this build max timing is recommended at 36 degrees. I never checked to see what it is other than one time. I have an MSD billet distributor with the silver spring in it (Standard). I never changed to the blue or red. I reach max advance at around 3000 RPMS. However during my tuning I only worry about initial timing that yields the best MPH or ET. My springs are the ones that AFR put on them when I got them. They are rated at 600/600 I believe. Valve float ocurring around 6500. I only rev to 6000 so no prob there. I built this engine from the AFR site 450 HP 355 Build. Mine is a 356/7 bore though. Here are the specs as tested by AFR:

     

    RPMS Torque H.P.

    2500 409 204

    3000 419 239

    3500 441 298

    4000 467 357

    4500 470 405

    5000 448 424

    5500 428 450

    6000 375 429

    Dyno Test Criteria

    Horsepower: 450 HP

    Engine: 355ci

    Heads: AFR Street 180 Heads Mine are the 190 Heads discontinued

    Compression: 9:5:1

    Carburetor: Holley 0-4779 750 cfm

    Ignition: MSD Distributor 36° Timing

    Cam: Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller

    Exhaust: 1 5/8" Headers

    Fuel: 93 Octane Pump Gas

     

    Engine built and dyno tested by AFR utilizing

    an AFR #5028 Street Power Flow Manifold

     

    These numbers are pretty close because I dynoed in Japan at Sea Level 82 degrees and ran 379HP at 362 rear wheel torque. However I think that dyno may be a little high as well but at any rate its a very good build and reliable being very streetable. Hell my car is so quiet no one would even know its a V8 but silently kicks major but for a 350!

     

    Terry

    Correct fuel psi for carbed 350

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    My 650DP Demon and all Holleys Ive had 750DP need about 7 PSI...8 to 9 will spill em over and make ur plugs wet or foul them in time. Watch where your lines run too cuz vapor lock is a real issue with these cars sometimes due to the underhood temps. My 240 has issues in the summer at the track with the hood on, hence I run without it. I have braided lines too but still have issues if its too hot. This will make your Fuel pressure start declining quick. You will experience serious powerloss when the engine starts starving...been there done that. On the 280 the fuel lines are ran thru the fender into the front of the car so I have no issues with it. I guess its time to reroute the Corzette lines in the future. Holley red pump is 7 PSI I think and could be run without a regulator. The blue is 14PSI without regulator....they sure are noisy though lol. Be careful with that carbureted pump as side drafts and maybe SUs only like 3 to 5 pSI if memory serves me correctly. I remember gas pouring out onto my headers from the Mikunis I had with the fuel pressure too high.....scary. The fuel gauge is a good tool...

     

    Terry

    Dyno numbers

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    Grumpy My current setup is this:

     

    350 .040 over

    KB Flat top hypers 5cc relief

    total seal rings

    Eagle full floater H Beams

    Scat 3.48 Stroke crank

    AFR 190 Heads 2.02/1.60 70% CNC ported

    CompCams XR282HR 510/520 at 110LS

    1.5 Roller rockers, intake and exhaust

    AFR match ported dual plane intake to FELPRO 1254 gasket

    Holley DP 04779 classic with PROFORM main body 70/76 jets did run 72/82 and had better MPH but ET suffered. Best 60 is now 1.591 with MT ETs

    Champion plugs cold for racing with NOS

    MSD billet distributor

    MSD blaster coil with MSD 6A ignition

    Ceramic block Hugger headers 1 5/8

    2 1/2 collectors to 21/2 pipe to X-Pipe to rear and out Dynomax mufflers Deltas?

    Edge 3500 stall

    Raptor 700R4 level III with torgue package

    Hurst V matic shifter

    R200 354 rear, have tried 411 but like 354 better, CV upgrade

    Holley Black Pump with return, carb likes 7 PSI

    Aluminum water pump, valve covers, Griffin radiator

    Current setup runs best with 4 to 6 advance timing. On cold days maybe 8 max period.

     

    I tried the XR276HR and liked it. It yielded a better 1/8th than the 282 and was more torqy by the seat of the pants but tired out up top. The 282 seems much better but I think the top end could be better. Maybe single plane and full length headers?

     

    Best time with current setup is 11.91 but was cold out. usually 11.98/12.00 at 110 to 112 all day long with out NOS.

     

    Terry

     

    Corzette ??

     

    what cam are you currently running?

     

    whats your current engine combo?

     

    what other cams have you tried?

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