MidnightCafe

Amen. You own the car, the car doesn't own you. Don't become the car's caretaker in trying to preserve it the best you can. For what purpose-so you can get more value when you sell it? Do what makes you happy

I'm cleaning the drool off my keyboard right now. I'm considering Enkei 92's myself. How are they working out for you? Are the caps metal or plastic? Also, I've seen your rollbar in a few posts. Any plans for a short production run?

Thanks for the input, guys. MSA has pretty steep cam pricing. I see a lot of hearsay about Datsun Parts LLC, and I also came across a few recommendations for Datsun Spirit in Virginia. http://datsunspirit.com/ As I look more into getting motor work done, I'm realizing how important it is to have a reliable, experienced machine shop do the work. I'm reminded of the time a customer of my friend's bike shop brought in a Norton Commando motor for a rebuild, took a look at how dirty my friend's British motorcycle shop was and how old his machinery was, and walked out. For those that don't know, British motorcycle engines from the late 60's were built on machines built in the 50's-the British didn't keep up to times with their machinery (one reason why the Japanese bikes dominated the scene shortly after arriving). You don't need CNC machinery to bore cylinders or cut valve seats. Anyways, that owner brought his motor to a high-tech shop that does a lot of NASCAR rebuilds, and he paid way too much for work done by technicians that never handled a parallel twin British motorcycle engine, and the end result was predictable-his motor didn't last 1,000 miles.

I'm looking at this motor on eBay sold by Datsun Parts LLC: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-P90-High-Compression-L28-Engine-Motor-Head-w-Cam-Kit-/400654907208?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d48e4b748&vxp=mtr It's eactly how I'd want my motor to be-280Z block, P90 head, mild cam, and flat top pistons. Considering the cost parts, tearing down my motor and having a recommended machinist (with Z experience) do the same work, which would be the economic choice here? I haven't quoted engine work myself, but hanging around a classic British motorcycle shop, I see motorcycle engine rebuilds go for $2k. Has anyone purchased a built motor from Datsun Parts LLC? Is it all that much cheaper to purchase a built motor? Or am I missing something obvious here?

What plans do you have for the 6 point cage-are you looking at any designs available online? I was thinking of a 4 point cage, since seeing a fellow Z owner's 6 point cage and his complaints about interior space. But like you said, crash protection on a 40 year old car is important...

Just a follow up for anyone who's found this in the search bar, it turns out the pickup coil was bad. Did a continuity test per the factory service manual (see the quoted link) and ordered a new one of Rock Auto. She started right up! Next season I'll be replacing the coil and plug wires/plugs (maybe the cap and rotor?) since it runs rough in humid conditions.

Here's mine from a recent show (blue). Then a fine gentleman in a 240Z pulled up!

OG, is that a 280Z? Do you have chrome trim around the tail lights? That doesn't appear stock-but I want it!

This is looking like an excellent project! Keep rolling in the updates!

I just found the factory service manual and I'm excited to work through the ignition chapter. Everything is explained in great detail and they tell you how to test each component. Hopefully I'll find out what's going on!

Hi gents, I've been dealing with this issue for a few weeks now and I need your help. I just picked up my 1978 280Z last month and one day I came out to it and it wouldn't start. Ignition worked, starter turned over, but no spark. I am getting power to the coil, but no signal. What I've done so far is replace the fusible links with a maxi fuse block (all four fuses functioning properly). I've traced the lack of signal to the computer (transistor ignition module) which I've replaced, but still no signal. Is there a sensor I'm overlooking that indicates when the coil needs to fire? Crank position sensor maybe? What about ignition relays-what testing can I do to rule these out? Thanks for the help!

I am having issues with my transistor ignition unit right now. Are you telling me that you essentially jiggled the ignition wire and it fixed itself?

So I'm driving my 1978 Datsun 280Z around town at night for a shakedown ride (just picked her up). I'm approaching an intersection and the light turns red. No big deal, I shift into neutral and apply the brakes-that's when the brake pedal bottoms out without any resistance. shit. I start pumping the brakes like a madman while downshifting into second gear. I check both directions and realize no car is in immediate range and I hit the gas and run straight through the red light. Mind you that the light was red for a good while, it's not like I just ran it (though I did do that later while driving home). I pulled into a gas station to catch my breath and kiss the ground. Walking around the car, I discovered that the front right wheel was very very hot-the caliper was dragging or possibly frozen. That explained why the car was pulling to the right, but was only detectable the longer I drove it. So I'm wondering what to do from here. What is causing the front right brake to engage while driving? Why would I lose brake pressure so suddenly? The car will sit in the driveway indefinitely until the brakes get fixed

Here's something to consider: yes, California/Texas/etc. cars will be rust-free. BUT, they are more likely to have been on the road for much longer than their Northeast counterpart. So while these cars are rust-free, they could have been daily drivers for many many years. Rust free, but clapped-out? No thanks. Where it snows, rust is like a cancer that can't be stopped until it devours through the structural integrity of a car chassis (prodding car frames with screwdrivers is standard operating procedure when buying used cars here). Naturally, rust should be avoided, but it's extremely difficult seeing that it affects almost every car. You're more likely to find a nice example on the West coast, but what if you find a nice original car in the Northeast? That tells you that either that Northeast car was taken care of EXTREMELY well, or it was shipped to that location (figure the cost of shipping into the price). Keep that in mind when looking through Craigslist. I considered looking at the West coast, but there was too much uncertainty in buying and shipping a car sight-unseen. With a little patience, I was able to pick up my 1978 280Z for $3000 (found her in Fair Haven, MA!)

Believe me, this will happen. She looks like a supermodel with headgear first comes working on passing the inspection haha

Body is in good shape and there's around 105k miles on the clock. Rust was repaired with aftermarket British Victoria metal parts (hood, fenders, rocker panels and floor pans) in the 80's and was repainted (paint is great minus one small dent and a clearcoat scratch where a speck of rust formed). It was family owned all its life and garaged since the repair work-last registered in 1991! The owner did throw his plate on it and drive it in the summers to keep it maintained. The bad: it needs interior work. The floor pans need to be painted, needs carpets, and the dash has cracks. The brakes need to be flushed and the horn, turn signals, and tach don't work. Some more pics:

So in January, I had ruptured my Achilles' tendon when my lifted 4x4 van broke down and I tried pushing it to the side of the road. While laid up and recovering, I sifted through local Craigslist ads and found a ratty 240Z for sale. I checked it out with a friend while on crutches and discovered how serious rust is for these cars-frame railed were rotted through and there were holes in the underbody I could reach up and feel the interior carpet! When I test drove it though, I had a big, shit-eating grin across my face-I absolutely loved it. I walked away from that specific car but I knew I had to have one while I'm still young. Fast forward to late April and I had just about given up on searching for an S30 since my budget couldn't buy me much in the northeast. Then one day, for whatever reason, I did a 250 mile range search on Auto Tempest and discovered a 1978 280Z near my parents' place in Boston. I called the owner and the car sounded reasonable, if a bit pricey. Sent my father and uncle out to check it out and long story short, they drove it home that day. Now I live in upstate ny and only had low resolution photos to see what I had bought. I arrived yesterday at my folk's place to this sitting in the driveway:

Is your windshield tinted? Sorry for the off topic question

bump. Hydro-dipping is another alternative, but it looks too fake for my tastes:

subscribed. I'm looking for a carpet kit as well, I'll post before/after photos here when I get the chance.

I live in upstate NY and cannot find any z-cars without rot! I'm starting to think about keeping to eBay rather than Craigslist for my search...

I would pick that up in a heartbeat. There's nothing like that in upstate NY. dash looks clean, BODY looks clean. I'd have no problem buying at that price.

Hey, hey! If I'm ever in the area, I definitely will!

I'll make this short-I'm looking for a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z. Let me know what you have or if you have a solid lead on one. Thanks! -Emmet

dude. You have a project thread?