3ryce

If the tops look the same as the bottom then I see no harm in leaving it. However I would flip it. But thats me. And I think that would be the safe side. Go a head and flip it. Better safe than sorry right?

Also my secondary coil, on top of the igntion coil, seems to be getting pretty hot. Is that normal?

So I dont need to get the MSD 6AL to go along with the tach adapter? Also I noticed that the secondary coil sitting on top of the Ignition coil was super super hot, is it normal for it to be hot?

Is the MSD 6AL required to use with the MSD tach adapter?

I checked out the links, seems easy enough to do this upgrade. However I have a few questions. If I do not want to upgrade my alt yet what amp fuse should I go with? It seems to start at a 1975, I have a 73 240z, Does a 73 240z not have fuseable links? Thats probably a dumb question.

Thos look good man! I just ordered the 535's there on a 2 month back order haha! Same size too. 16x8 0 offset. Nice to see that the ones I ordered will fit super similar to yours if not the same exact. I actually almost got thos wheels.

Just an update here, looks like fuel is leaking from the bottom. So now ill take just that carb off and clean it and replace the gaskets and what not that the cark kit comes with from autozone.

Ah. Then I may have cause this problem when I unscrewed the top of the float valve carb thing. Again sorry for the wording. I will look into the things mentioned. You guys are awesome!

So I got her started up today for the first time in like 7yrs. Still the electrical fuel pump isnt working but the mechanical one is so thats ok for now. Well anyways after it had started to warm up a little bit and then I turned it off I had looked and noticed I had fuel coming from the hoses that has the T separator and is along the top of the orange intake airfilter holder. Sorry I do not know the correct term for thos hoses. Maybe fuel return? Or choke fuel lines? Anyways, there is fuel coming from under the carb closest to the firewall. Also while it was running ide give it some gas then let off and it would back fire and I believe this fuel leak is related. I didnt want to do to much as my gas tank right now it a 2 gallon gas can and the car is in a garage, yes garage door was open. I'm just not sure what to do and wanted to see if you guys think I could just get a gasket set for the carbs and be ok. The other carb didnt seem to be leaking any fuel from it. heres a pic.

wait you removed the coil plug from the dizzy cap. and held it close to the body and didnt notice spark? i would not think your dizzy is bad. i would go for the coil or something on that side. the coil gives the spark and if your not getting a spark before the dizzy then your dizzy is good still.

I tested that relay in the picture and it works. so i guess its something else. on another thread someone said about a coil. like a coil relay? however he has not responded after me asking what that it. could someone please post a picture of this relay coil, and any advice is helpfull. thanks

post #13 has a picture of the relay hooked up. its the one with the weird symbol on it. its the black, yellow, green and green wire that plug into this relay. and when i jumpped the green to green and turned the key the fuel pump worked. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/15897-help-fuel-pump-wiring-harness.html

so i jumped the wires that this was plugged into and turned the key and the fuel pump worked. so this relay is bad and not working. heres a picture. and idk what to call it cause i know these cars dont have a fuel relay persay but this is defently a relay and controls the fuel.

And is there a way to jump the wires to test to see if the coil or relays are the cause. I do not have a volt meter with me and its 20 min away.

Ok so ive got a 1973 240z and its got the electrical fuel pump in the back that I guess primez the system to allowe the mechanical one to take over. Well im not getting power to the pump. I here clicks over in the relays on the passenger side. The inline fuse is good and everything seema plugged in. Someone had told me about a relay coil or something that could be bad. Im trying to figure out where that is. The haynes manual does not say and I cant get an answer from the other person. So if someone could point me in the right direction that would be awesome! Thanks. And ill keep looking around the site in the mean time.

Im trying to figure out how to remove the trim, seems like mine are held on by metal rivits. idk how to remove them either. If someone could give some advice that would be great! thanks.

So if ive read this correctly, I want to do coilovers, I should add some shims to the sway bar? Also by lowering my car it will gain understear, correct? So I guess DP camber plates from betamotorsport.com would be very nice to have. I also plan on getting polyurathane bushings to replace all bushings. I also take it there are no bolt in coil overs for our cars at a reasonable price? haha. So im going to be doing some welding I guess? I have been looking at a few different types of coils. and was wondering if i could get your input on them. thanks. Ill provide links here. http://ceikaperformance.com/Type-1M-Coilover-Kit-p35.html http://www.erzperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CNS360-KP&gclid=CJrc94CJ4bUCFQaznQodZzYAMw these look like a simple bolt in. http://performance.importrp.com/i-395109.aspx and these do to. I simply typed in google coilovers for 240z Again thanks for any and all help!

I like the ease of maintenance, the e-brake working better is something I ilke as well and yes the looks ide say are a nice bonus. However I will most likey go with the MM kit. I found a link in one of the pinned threads. I know I could go with using yard parts, but I like the confort of knowing I have all new parts. Brakes are something im not going to cheap out on.

What year for the maxima brackets? What about the break lines? Is it all bolt up? Or are thos parts just bolt up and get you started? I plan on doing this as soon as i get my z but if there is more information on how to that would be great.

yes this should be pinned.

Thanks pat you're awesome!

Ok so, I have decided to go with the RB20det. Ive got a few questions on what is needed. Here is a list that I have put together from the info I have found by searching around on the site. Motor mounts- Jaguar xj6 72-87 ( I believe I read somewhere that Pat was using these on his.) Throtel cable from McKinner Motorsports Oil pan and sump (hopefully pat can help me out with this ) PRC Radiator Radiator fan from 90-95 taurus Boost guage Water Pump (need to locate one) ECU ( ebay? ) thos things ive gather as actually needing and will work, Ive got questions on other items Fuel pump (is that needed or can I use stock?) If i need to use an after market one I saw a member on here using a bosch 004 pump. Is that too much? After market intake manifold (or can i just use the stock one? Is it a clearance issue?) Ebay intercooler ( i know not nessicary but may get if i can use stock intake manifold) ECU wireing harness ( http://www.wiringspecialties.com/n4ecupaha.html ) is this needed or would it help in anyway? Engine wire harnes I assume needs to be mainly intack as most the wires will be spliced into the z body wire harness Still need to read the wiring thread on this tho. Going to try to get an uncut harness tho. And anything else or other information anyone would like to add would be awesome! When I begine doing the swap I plan on doing my best to make a DIY thread and try to put all the info all in one spot so future people can find the info easier. Dont get me wrong its some what easy to find all the info but it would be nice if it was all in one spot.

I just read this whole thread as well. I must say 70 cam guy, well done, well done. Im still trying to decide between the RB20 or the RB25. The 25 seems to be more complicated with the wiring. I might have missed it, but what was the problem with the car dieing after a rev? Also what would you have done differently? I plan on going completly stock with which ever motor i choose. I like the look of your intake manifold. Oh its possible to run an intercooler with a stock set up right? I watched the video and I gotta say that sounds mean and nasty. I take it your leaving it streaight piped? Have you done anything else to it sense your last post? Ok, sorry for all the questions im just hoping I can make my swap as clean as yours. How long did your swap take total? like few months? weeks?

Is that the same for the RB25? I will read. I'm going to try to go for the 25. It seems like there was somewhere I saw that parts are harder to come by with the RB20 than the RB25, not to mention the oil pan and sump can be taken from the 20 and bolted on to the 25 and that it fits. At least thats what I gathered from the thread. The RB25 is what? 250HP and the RB20 is 215? I also had a question on where to purchase one of these. What do you guys think about this site. http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/nissan-infiniti/rb20-dohc-turbo-engine-manual-5-speed-transmission-93.html# Ive used them once before and have not had an issue with the engine i bought. Thanks in advance guys. Im loving this fourm!

I'll just got with the stock computer. I don't plan on doing anything fancy here. Would someone please shed some light on the links to the wireing harnes links I have posted please? Thanks guys.