T-Bone028

Nice work! Just to clarify, was this a result of merging a stock FI manifold with a SU manifold?

Where can you find the transmission part number on the transmission? All I can see is the serial number on mine. I want to verify if it is indeed a dastun comp box like the previous owner said it was. Where would I find the number on the transmission to identify? thanks

I would agree, water/condensation being mixed with exhaust gasses...my guess is you dont have a catalytic converter (I dont). Mine does the same thing after its been sitting for a while and I start her up. Here's a test. Start your car, get it fully warmed up, and drive it somewhere like a parking lot or something. Give it a couple healthy revs and see if spits out any tail pipe soot. You could probably even hold a piece of paper behind the tail pipe if that helps you see it any better. If all you get is exhaust gasses after its fully warmed up, and dont have any noticeable exhaust spray on the piece of paper, then you can pretty much assume its just condensation in your exhaust getting sprayed out during start up. After its warmed up, it should go away. If not, then time to investigate further.

Whats up everyone, I'm working on building a DIY oil catch can and had a few questions about plumbing everything up. Here's my current PCV (factory) system. 1) Breather from block connected via hose to PCV valve on intake manifold. 2) Breather vent on valve cover routed to airbox cleaner via hose. Essentially, my set-up is just like the factory, just minus all the other emissions control devices like air pump and air injection into the exhaust. The other day, I noticed I was getting a lot of blow by coming from my valve cover breather line. Since it is hooked up like the factory system, this means that blow-by gas is being pointed directly into my rear SU carb. I cant imagine this is an ideal situation for my carb and A/F mixture. According to the FSM, in most throttle conditions other than WOT, the breather from the valve cover should be picking up filtered air from the airbox, letting it flow through to the bottom of the crankcase, mixing with blow-by gas, and eventually being pulled and re-burnt through the pcv valve into the intake manifold. I replaced my PCV just yesterday thinking that it should fix the blow-by problem, but it did not. So, now I'm considering running an oil catch can. I believe the normal set-up is: 1) vent line from block to catch can 2) vent line from catch can to pcv valve on intake manifold 3) valve cover vent can either be vented with a breather, or plumbed into the air cleaner Since I dont want all the blow by gas going into my air cleaner/carb, I was thinking about introducing a "T" fitting to the catch can. One end of the T would go to the catch can, the other end is hooked up to the block vent line, and the last "T" end would be hooked up with the valve cover vent line. So, both block and valve cover vents would be run to the catch can, the blow-by gas would get filtered, and then fed back into the PCV valve on the intake manifold to be burned. I will also use a PCV valve inline on the hose from the valve cover vent line so blow by gas can only be pushed out of the valve cover, and not back in. Does anyone foresee any problems with this? I think it will work, but I'm just not sure. So far, I've spent about $45 on various barb fittings/elbows, hose, and a heavy duty air compressor air filter http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00916009000P?vName=Tools&cName=AirCompressors&AirTools&sName=Air%20Compressor%20Accessories&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a Your thoughts?

What is your budget dangerboy? There are a handful of Z's in the area right now (I'm in fairfax). Some need a lot of work, others not so much.

If its close by, then drive over and check it out. Bring a spare battery. See if it starts. Another thing to consider is, do you want to keep it as fuel injected? Swapping over to carbs will eliminate a lot of the wiring under the hood that could have crapped out due to the backwards jump. Also, even it if doesnt start, the spare battery can help you look at other things, such as the lights, signals, etc.

I just replaced my slave last week. The fact that you are not able to put it into 1st and 3rd when the car is off makes me think you have more than one issue though. What year is your car and what kind of transmission do you have? You can make adjustments at both the clutch pedal and slave cylinder depending on what you have...I believe 70 - 72 has an adjustable slave cylinder rod. Just get under you car and check out the condition of your slave. If it is wet, then you need to replace and bleed your system. Have a helper pump the clutch pedal and watch how much travel you are getting with the slave/withdrawal lever. Should be about an inch or so.

just a thought...although my fuse box didnt melt like yours (I'm using a painless wiring harness with modern style fuses) I kept blowing my parking light fuse. The culprit was a corroded turn signal bulb and housing/socket. I replaced my turn signal sockets with a pair of generic Ford van 3 wire turn signal sockets that I modified to work (splicing and cutting the plastic to match the oem fit). Just bring one of your old turn signals to your local auto store, and see if you can find something in similar size that matches the same pattern. Over the years, the original sockets get subjected to dirt/vibration/moisture that causes the contacts to get turned around or simply to just get F*$*$ed up. It was causing a short to ground in my scenario. After I replaced them, I havent had a problem since. One way to troubleshoot, is to disconnect as many lights as possible (turn signals, side markers, rears), and then slowly plug them back in one at a time until it blows or in your case, overheats. That will usually tell you where the gremlin is hiding.

Looks pretty slick! Got to be honest though...the DAT SUN idea is kinda cheesy...but to each his own!

I did not qualify for collectors car insurance due to too many tickets from my younger years. I should qualify this summer. In the meantime, I'm insured through all-state. 100/300/100. Costs me about $300 every 6 months. My Z is listed as a secondary vehicle, with estimated mileage as less than 5000 miles a year. You can also get a better rate when you sign up for multiple insurance coverage. For example, by including home owners insurance with my vehicle coverage, I was able to save $200. Strange how it works, but usually if you have multiple insurance plans with the same company, you get more benefits and a lower rate. If you value your soon to be Z, get classic car insurance. Regular insurance will value it very low, and should you get in an accident, totally screw you over. My Z is a weekend only car, and I have it tagged as an antique. As soon as my current insurance coverage expires, I will be switching to classic car insurance. Its not only cheaper than standard insurance policies ($200 per year), but also has MUCH better coverage, namely agreed upon value. The advantages are multiple. The only downside is the restriction on driving and mileage...but like I said, my car is only a weekend car. If I didnt have so many previous tickets, I would have done it from the beginning. Look into having your father be the the primary driver under classic car insurance and find out what the rules are for secondary named drivers. As long as you have a clean record, you should be able to be listed. If you get pulled over, just say you are testing the performance of a recently "fixed" item and carry an old part with you like a dirty looking slave cylinder. Usually with cars tagged as antique or classic, and if you have classic car insurance, you are restricted to: - The occasional pleasure drive - To or from a car related event or club - To test the performance of the vehicle - To or from car related maintenance and service

To the original poster, although the photoshop looks good, its not for me. The front lip to flare to side-skirts to flare transition looks good. I would say no to the window and side scoop...I would also push you towards a different hood scoop if any at all. The lines of the Z are already timelessly beautiful, sometimes less is more. But, it is your car, and as long as you're happy with it thats all that matters.

I think the group is going to need a lot more info on these...i.e. where did you get them, how did they bolt-up (adaptor?), etc. Very interesting and always good to see a different option. I think you need to get to a dyno ASAP! Quick google search revealed these are common for MG owners?

STwrangler, what do you have done to your Z? EDIT: Nevermind, found your other post.

Good luck sir! My guess is, there is more paperwork involved with the bank selling it to someone then it is to just destroy it.

OR...you could focus on getting the Z in optimum shape and addressing things like brakes/electrical/suspension/interior/rust first. Save your money and keep your eyes peeled for a running GM donor car...I'm sure you could find a Chevy 350 and tranny in Detroit...there HAS to be one! Its Detroit! Buy the book, "Datsun V8 conversion manual" from JTR (Jags that Run). It will give you good idea of what parts/work is needed. But, if you are trying to keep it Datsun powered, then more power to you! Simple search on Craigslist popped up a bunch of Datsun hits.

Slave cylinder has been replaced! I had to re-use the old push rod as the new one was too long. Even after buying a new 17 mm flare wrench, I still had to use locking pliers to break free the clutch hose. I have a clutch hose in the mail just in case I need it in the future.

Possibly GM Indigo Blue Metallic? Came on 90's trucks...

I have not heard of them, but I am also on the East coast. For $2500, is that just for machine work (you provide engine), or is that for a whole rebuilt long block? If it were for a brand-new rebuilt engine, I would say that is a pretty fair price. Especially if they put any sort of warranty on their work. I'm sure if they are as good as they say they are, they will be willing to provide you with a handful of customer references that you can speak with.

If your entering your Z in the Hampton Z car show...I have a feeling you're going to walk away with a trophy! Looking really good!

^ Agreed. I could imagine that it will either peel, get air bubbles, or just look like crap after its been weathered a while. If you're going to do something, do it right the first time.

So if you blip the throttle from under the hood, its perfect. But from the gas pedal, it dies. I would imagine that there is something going on with your linkage. Maybe binding or improper geometry of your linkage? Have someone operate the gas pedal while you watch whats going on at various throttle positions/loads. BTW, I'm just throwing out blind guesses...hope you find a fix.

Well, after making adjustments at both the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder, it shifts like butter now. No grinds, no difficulty, no problems. Everything works as it should. Nice and smooth, and clutch engages/disengages nicely. Unfortunately, the slave cylinder is f*&$*ed. It was moist, and I could tell it has been leaking. Surprisingly though, it didnt affect the test drive at all...which puzzles me. Oh well. I have new parts on order.

The other question you need to ask yourself is, are you positive that the donor floor pans are rust free? A lot of times, if you chip away the factory "sound deadening" it will reveal rust underneath despite visual inspection of being clean of rust.

Thanks 280Zme, I think I confused the master cylinder rod adjustment at the pedal, with the slave cylinder adjustment on the tranny. I know on the slave,for 70-72 it can be adjusted and there is a locknut. I just havent had a chance to get under the car with a helper to push the clutch in/out to see how much movement I'm getting at the slave cylinder rod. I'm thinking this may be the culprit, if not air in the system. I'm hoping there is not a leak from the master/slave, I've heard they are notorious for leaking.

Whats up everyone, hoping someone can give me some more ideas. So my 72 240Z has a 5-speed, and when the car is off, I can shift into any gear easily and without any effort. When the car is on, I can barely shift into first, if at all. And when I am able to get it into gear, it takes a herculean effort to do so. Once I get moving, I can shift into other gears with relatively easy effort, getting easier as I upshift into higher gears. If I come to a stop and sit for a while (like at a light for example) it starts all over again and I can barely get into first gear. I had to turn the car off, shift into first, and then start the car. Reverse, is a resounding grind but usually will go into gear. I'm hoping that it is a clutch pedal height issue, but I have not ruled out a bad master or slave cylinder. When I tried to adjust the pedal height last weekend, I could not turn the nut on the master cylinder push rod (under the dash). It looked like there was plenty of multi-purpose grease on there and didnt look rusted together, but it did not want to move. Am I supposed to clamp down on the rod with some pliers first, and then adjust the nut to give more travel? (Should the nut go towards the front of the car, or towards the back???). When I checked the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, it was low. Topped it off and need to check it again to see if I have a leak. Things I have not done, but will be doing this weekend if I cant solve this with a pedal adjustment. 1) Bleed the clutch 2) check for leaking (again) 3) Order a new master and slave cylinder 4) Shoot myself. What am I not thinking of? The above diagram shows the adjusting nut...for some reason I thought there was supposed to be a lock nut as well? Open to any and all suggestions. thanks, T