ol doc gully

Doing a slow restore on a 72 240 i picked up. Weber 45s were having some trouble sneezing and leaking so took them off to clean em up and replace gaskets, set floats etc. Noticed these adjustment screws which i find no mention of in Haynes manual, or any online reference ive found. These are the later 152s with nitrophyl/spansil floats so im thinking it was a modification on later models? has a white plastic hat/cover. one on each throat. with plastic cover removed needle screw with fastener nut needle pokes through main venturu/choke into carb throat (upper right)

The 4.6 mod motors are very wide, particularly compared to the relatively compact GM LSx engine. I decided against the idea after seeing the troubles members had with fitting an LS.

Interesting, I did not know that, kind of explains some things. I was mostly speaking to the fact that the ratings are extrapolated from limited testing, with the calculation done by the manufacturers, mostly meaning that ratings are really only comparable between tires from the same manufacturer. In the end I think it all falls under the Reagan rule of "trust, but verify".

RS3 and BFG g-force both have 200 treadwear rating. The RS3 was actually just bumped up from a previous rating of 140 this year. RS3 is very comparable to the dunlop z1 star spec, and i once sold a set of those with 10,000 miles and one mild track day that weren't even past the first wear indicator. I would say this is above average but shows how long they can last under mild use. Treadwear ratings are about as misleading as manufacturer stated section width and sidewall sizes.

310, it sounds like you may have overlooked the Hankook RS3 which I'd expect to be about exactly what you're after.

Like John said the performance tires in 15" run quite wide, for instance the 235/50 R888s are almost perfectly suited for a 15x10, resembling more of a 245 or 255. And there are lots of 225 options suited for a 8 or 9 inch wheel. However, I do agree many of the miata spec tires are a bit short on sidewall to suit the S30 aesthetics. Although I guess it suits the unfortunate current trends of 'slammed' and 'flush'....

I am planning on getting some Bassetts, and had thought you could get 45deg lugs through them. I hadn't looked around for 12x1.25 specifically yet though so am very interested to hear what you find. Maybe try emailing/calling them? Also note, most Bassetts use thinner shells to keep weight down and are not technically DOT legal (if you care). They make one style that is DOT, and weighs 24lbs in 15x8, also available in 15x7: http://www.bassettwheel.com/dot.html However, for that matter, I'm not even sure diamond racing wheels are DOT....

Oh man, great setup! How much room do you have to the spring coil with those rims/tires? I've been wondering if I can fit 235/50 R888s on stock fenders with a 15x9 and as much backspace as possible -- any thoughts?

Looks great Mofro, wheels look to be 16x9 spinwerkes? What offset? Very close to what I was hoping to run for a track setup except I was planning a 15";

Bump. I have the exact same opportunity and wondering if anyone has been down this road....

assuming the rear window vents to go rear rotors (?) whats that coming out of the front fender? car looks like as much of a beast as i bet it is

i acquired a brand new precision gear LSD for an R180. the catch is its unknown exactly which R180 it was originally made for; uses 115mm ID ring gear, 11mm ring gear bolts (86+), and has 27 spline output shafts, so indication its either for the STi or NA 4 cyl 200SX. beyond the 28mm diameter, is there any measurement i can make (mostly as far as length) to verify that these STi stub axles would fit correctly? are they the same size left/right? im hoping to test fit some sti axles locally before purchasing but still cant tell true fitment until its all buttoned up (currently searching out a 4.11 200SX diff) thanks in advance

please post pics, I'd love to see what a 15x9 +0 looks like on a S30 with some decent (not stretched) rubber....

what tire size? car looks great. makes me want to see how much i can stuff under stock fenders before pushing the ZG flare easy button

did you get it worked out? curious because im having similar problems, which im thinking are the fault of bad 'start' contact in the ignition switch. that would make sense with your intermittency (as well as bad contacts elsewhere). after searching, this is a common problem - does anyone know if this is also an issue that affects the switch in on/run position? i was going to just add a push button start but would replace the switch as well if i should be expecting similar issues for the ignition coil etc. maybe ill just put switches for the whole damn thing haha

thanks man vacuum hoses to distributor advance and for fuel tank vent was crapped out so went to replace it and i noticed (i think) the part of the T that would give vacuum from the throttle body or similar is just capped off. where would one normally tap into a new vacuum source if running webers? am i correct in that the one capped in the pic would be vacuum source? sorry for the crap quality of taken with a camera phone and a flashlight hahah

anyway, like i said, i really dont know anything about these cars (or carburetors haha) but already started a lot of reading (numberous carb books and the FAQs on here are a godsend). the basic plan is/was to replace all suspension (bushings, control arms, spring/damper, brakes, wheels/tires), basically do what i need to get her to handle good and be track ready - hoping to hit midohio in her this year. but im switching gears now to just focus on teh engine and get it running to make sure everything is solid there before spending a bunch of money on suspension. wont start but thats because im literally just getting nothing out of the starter. battery is pretty dead but nothing when its being jumped either, need to keep digging through wiring and checking things out

ive been contemplating what i wanted to build for a track car for over a year, wanted something with classic styling, good handling, minimal electronic gizmos, rear drive, manual trans (E30 and factory five hot rod were the runners up) before having an epiphone of the S30 being the perfect car. some buddies were coming through town with an empty trailer after dropping off their pikes peak car so i had em pick this up in buffalo, NY. he had said it was a 81/82 ZX block. its a 1979-1980 280ZX N42 block and N47 head, he also wasnt sure but it has the ZX 5spd as well (very glad for this as that was a definite modification) as he stated: NYS Inspected Custom Aluminum Intake (bought off a custom shelf?) Triple 45 DCOE webers New plugs New wires New cap new rotor New fuel filter New electronic ignition (glad for this) new crome coil 40,000 Rebuilt carb.'s New battery New belts Original spare Gas tank removed cleaned inside and out, painted, and reinstalled (funny, doesnt look like its moved in 40 years) New fuel pump New intake gasket New 2 1/2 exhaust muffler and tip New pressure plate New Clutch New throw out bearing it seems to have been originally yellow, got in an accident on the passenger side (door and front fender have a lot of bondo that is rusting out underneath) and they just resprayed teh whole car maroon half ass. however it is basically my favorite color for the z so ill just touch it up as necessary its pretty clean as far as rust, which was the main reason i went with it. the rocker panels need replacing, and theres some in the usual spots (above taillights, battery has some surface rust), but frame rails are pretty clean all in all. anyway, heres pics. i took a lot cause its already under the knife and not pretty ..or even viewable haha. please let me know anything you see as far as concerns, again i am not at all familiar wtih these cars (yet ) i love the muscle car rear haunch shape. basically what sealed the deal for getting a s30 z car. cause i wasnt getting a leaf sprung live axle monster id have to wrestle around the track. picture with my subaru impreza RS - has been everything from a track car to rallyx car, now will be retired to daily duty. im astonished the z is even smaller than it, in a very good way. they weigh about the same. interior is super original which makes me very happy. will likely be keeping most of it from a visual standpoint in lieu of stripped track car route. basically remove sound deadening but use original carpet etc, eventually add cage. curious as to whats under the dash cap, he said he had never removed it. ill probably flock it the sills are rusted to crap but are replaceable and floorboards are mostly solid. didnt get a good pic of seats but they are in great shape, and i really like em, going to be difficult to toss them for race buckets. maybe ill keep em for a bit he was very good about sending me lots of pics of main spots i was worried about (frame rails, etc). does have some rust in normal z places but is not bad at all compared to teh norm (not pictured are rocker panels and battery box which have some but not bad). cosmetic rust i could care less about passenger door engine: webers were something i would not have done myself but very happy to have them i believe these are 6-1 headers from MSA? rice lighting is nice so took a bunch of night pics before she gets torn apart this is one happy dude as you can see, working on a narrow ass one way cobblestone street sucks ass, especially in ohio winters sucks ass so luckily after printing out flyers kindly offering to rent garage space and posting them on all my neighbors doors somebody called back! to add to the blessing he was the only one to call back, and was offering space in teh ABSOLUTE closest garage (one pictured behind my friend who was so kind to deliver it for me) nice stable mate, 65 started checking things out strut shafts are in surprisingly good shape part of the reason i kind of want to just replace all the suspension components, but we'll see how they clean up. think i may buy/build a sandblaster im assuming this is the original 240Z R180 control arms will be replaced regardless in favor of something with some adjustability (likely zforce or techno toy units) trans fluid is leaking, seemingly from drain plug several bolts seem to be missing between trans and engine yoke seems to be leaking as well clutch slave attachment seems to be missing the nut..

ahh, apologies, im sure that wont be the first time i mix up old school/z jargon as i get started. any recommendations as far as camber plate options? a lot of people seem to take the welded-in route?

what about replacing the whole strut top mount, ie replace with camber plate? what parts are available along those lines for S30? what do you mean 'insulator'? edit: apologies for ignorance, completely new to Z's but looking to get into one soon