ol doc gully

Awesome, looking forward to seeing those on your car - been very surprised more people don't buy the RKRs.

thanks!

an update of whats been going on the past year... techno toy tuning coilovers (koni 8610 race, 250/275 lb-in springs) with DP racing camber plates may be the sexiest car part ive ever purchased made what friends have dubbed the creepiest basement in the world into a paint booth. and then realized i basically made a murder chamber, even creepier. painted all suspension parts front/rear with zinc phosphate (95% zinc) and then POR-15 new wheel bearings all around devised a perfect rear wheel bearing press for these, 1 1/4 steel pipe and hammer new OEM balljoints, tie rods ends, polyurethane bushings everywhere rear spindle pins were a pain in the ass.. as expected, beefy special little tool helped a lot, but even it mushroomed before second one broke off, i ended up just grinding it apart front brakes rear rear brakes, guess i forgot to take a picture with them on.. chopped up a yoga mat to make fender covers hahaha ended up ditching the webers... they just werent going to be right, especially being 45s, for what the car was aimed at. was going to need to rejet, and would have choked down which would have just required more investment and time than was worth putting into something that was gonig to be ALL top end. i traded them for some race prepped SU carbs in very good order, rebuilt by a long time 240z master around here Bob Smith SU carbs actually came off of this gem, #13 SVRA racecar, owned by Andy Doll, who has become a good friend and been unendingly helpful in all of this, huge thanks to him. this is also where the webers went.. right where they belong. first race is last weekend of june, unfortunately same as pikes peak so i need to make some decisions =\ the mrs even had a hand :D good woman. shes probably as excited as i am. up next... confirmed my nismo/power brute clutch LSD can use sti inner axles, now just need to save up the $$ old school momo race wheel, going to get wrapped in alcantara BUT seats are what im really needing right now, i know what i want eventually but dont have the cash right now. i can get these for cheap (no rails)... and i think im going to do it because even when i switch i can put these in the OBS rallyx car. but that depends on what its going to take to get some rails that will work for each, also i need to figure out a way to recover them cheaply, i hate the blue... anybody know of a good way to dye the material so that it wont bleed? maybe some shitty big ass universal seat cover.. ? i have some extra interior vinyl and would like to make some custom old school lookin seat covers but not sure its worth it for these seats.. also girlfriend isnt here with her sewing machine skills at the moment

its been about a year in the garage while i figured out what i was doing and then got it done (really 90% of the work took place in the last 3 months) but seriously, first chance to get it out of the garage and hit the road was just after midnight this past friday the 13th, which also had a full moon overhead turned on the stereo for the first time since its even been in this state - radio was tuned right to station playing ozzy, crazy train haha, no joke, cant make this stuff up tooks some full moon pics after first drive, this is how she sits now, lots of changes coming though parked back in the garage

Based on my research, 15x8+0 is damn near perfect for a S30. Enkei makes the Compe with either a 0 or +25 offset. The +25 would likely hit factory Z spring perches. So get the 0 offset. I only see Rota Grid Classics in +0.

What size & offset are those rear wheels?

got it, thanks immensely for the responses!

hey guys, ill try to keep this short... picked up a 240z with L28 (stock N42/N47) and triple webers that wasnt running last year. im new to carbs and distributors (lots of time with EFI cars) i spent a LOT of time reading up and fighting with electrical gremlins but never quite got it going before winter hit. so ive been getting suspension in order and will be diving back in on the engine in a week or so. i also did a mild refresh of the carbs (cleaned out, replaced gaskets). the jetting seems quite a bit different from most of what ive been seeing in here, so i am somewhat skeptical that they were pulled off a different car and slapped on here - and based on what ive found on the rest of the car now that wouldnt surprise me in the least. during the rebuild i found a booster venturi that was in backwards, a broke off needle valve, binding throttle plate rod, etc... suffice to say, not confidence inspiring. im just hoping to get some general input on the setup, because from the research ive done the jets sound huge for these motors. mostly because if it seems way off id like to get them sent off for a professional rebuild and all new jetting now. if it seems decent enough ill wait and give it another go. i do intend to use these in the long run but am also heavily entertaining the idea of slapping some SUs on in the name of getting on the road and getting to some track events. i have some local people familiar with them but nobody really comfortable with webers. so, what do you think? thanks very much for any input in advance. · Stock N42/N47 L28 with triple Weber 45 DCOE 152 (w air bypass) o 45 booster venturi o 36mm choke o 45F8 idle jet o 170 air corrector o F16 emulsion o 165 main jet o 45 pump jet o 40 intake discharge valve o Changed fuel inlet needle valve from 175->225 (one of old was bent and new ones came with rebuild kit)

In need of a early (25 spline) rear outer stub axle, just one, don't need the companion flange. OR could be talked into a full set of 280Z stub axles and companion flanges. I'm in Columbus, OH, but willing to pay shipping. Thanks! Ben

You'll have to poke around here to understand where the outside face should be to line up properly with the ZG flares for your tastes, but this tool should be extremely useful in understanding and visualizing how width and offset interplay to affect inner and outer clearance: http://www.willtheyfit.com/ tables like this are also helpful to convert from offset to backspace and vice versa: http://www.jeepkj.com/forumpics/wheels/offset.gif

i met a guy local to me who runs kirkeys in his race car and his street car, i'm going to check em out friday, i'll let you know how his are and maybe take some pictures. you planning on mounting the back of the seat to the cage (FIA)? and I'll definitely let you know next time i come through town

Love it, I think the Kirkey's do a great job of fitting the retro race image as well as being comfortable, affordable and supportive. Is this for road racing? Very much looking forward to how you like it. My parents live in Huntsville, was just down there couple weeks ago, I'll have to stop by next time.

Heres just some crap pictures i grabbed off craigslist, but shows the 'rib hugging' model that I mentioned previously. They look much less impressive on the Kirkey site (I believe these are all '09 economy layback'). Just something to consider though as I've sat in them and the rib wing things do provide a lot of additional support. I would definitely be planning on them if I wanted more support than the pro drag could offer, and I would think it would fit very easily.

Awesome youre doing this, as i havent seen kirkeys in a z yet and is definitely the route im planning... hopefully will keep from making a couple mistakes. Whats the height / driving position like with the seats 0.5" over stock sliders? Glad to hear the sliders will work well though. do you have a cage? How does door-side clearance look for one?

for what its worth, im ~5'6", 170lbs and the 16" kirkey fits me perfect. the pro drag is what i have planned, mostly just for lack of a vintage style option i really like. they also have one thats basically exactly the same but has wings that come out around your ribs - sounds like just what you're looking for. holds well but made ingress/egress too awkward for the amount of street use id like to get out of the car. theyre also on craigslist a lot for cheap from dirt track racers etc. good way to test fit and also get a cheap seat, just buy a new cover.

More pictures of her? Looks to be just about exactly what mines gonna look like when it finally emerges from the garage

...as well as SVRA? Thanks, thats the info I was looking for.

Thanks, after seeing the AZC instructions I now realize aligning with the other strut top is enough, I suppose that was my question. Also, I realize it was for IT classing that 'reinforcing' the strut mount area is frowned upon, so I suppose if one wants to be safe in both IT and SVRA they should go for the ground control plates.

Are both weld-in and bolt in plates allowed in SVRA? I believe the inhibiting factor would be that they do not approve of 'reinforcing' the mounting area, but the rules suggest everything is OK as long as the track stays the same? I just want to be especially sure of this before welding some in that cannot be removed Also whats the methodology for lining up the weld-in camber plates to prevent uneven L/R caster? Just put the flat edge of the plate flush against the fender?

^ He has many more pictures in the photobucket album those pictures link to that answer some of those questions. Incredible work there, such attention to detail, I love it.

R_3 what exhaust is that? Looks very clean and well suited to the car.

Oh man, thanks immensely for the pictures and the input, just what i needed. If you're saying you could 'barely/almost' fit with stock spring perches, then I should have whatever room I gain from coilovers for tires, which I think should be just enough. There are options that are over 225, although not many (R888), and most are slicks. 235 R888 should be pretty square on a 9, a bit much for an 8. I've actually been using that one picture of your car sitting still from the front as a main determinate in this decision (whether to go with 8s or 9s with big tires on stock fenders), and now just added every pic in your flikr account, haha. definitely seems like 0 offset is the way to go for equal strut and fender clearance. i think (or am hoping) that setup should result in something just about like this: http://www.cliffshade.com/350zr/images/040911-1236-41e.jpg

Could anyone say something about clearance to strut body (with stock or coilovers) with the 15x9et0 - perhaps a picture or measurement? I'm wondering how wide of tire I could go on a set. After much digging I've seen some reporting success running that size wheel on stock suspension so I take that to mean I have a fair amount of room to play with.... all the watanabe sizes give the same inner clearance as a 15x9-12

Gmagno, what are the wheel and tire sizes on those XXRs for the chumpcar?

Ah, thank you very much gents - yes, on both barrels. So this screw is an additional air inlet that bypasses the throttle plate? Doing some more reading I've seen two different explanations of intended use: One, to use it as a last step for balancing, or two that it could/should be used so that throttle plate stops can be set to where the plates are just covering the first progression holes; then the idle mixture and air bypass screws can be used to tweak mixture and rpm? I still have a way to go before these are put back on the car or tuned but I'm trying to use the cleaning process as a time to familiarize myself and learn as much as possible about the carbs.