zforce

I thought I read A post about running fuel lines inside car being safer and that some sanctioning bodies require it. Does anyone have a scca rule book handy? One question why did you choose a 10 gallon fuel tank?I have thought about doing this conversion and would think 15 or 16 gallon would be better.

Let me tell you something,you can listen to all the music you want at home. But seriously how are going to hear anytihing over the engine?no matter how good the stereo is.Maybe its just me but I am a believer in if it dosn't make the car go faster it dosn't belong on the car. Dont get me wrong I love a good car stereo but I have had so many of them stolen,I just dont want to take the chance anymore.

I looked at my pertronix coil,it says 1.5 ohm's and its been there for four years with the ballast resistor bypassed.I have also searched other sites and nobody has ever complained about this particular set up.

Yeah those numbers are most impressive,are you going to use that same cam with the iron lung ?

This post is a little old but I will try to answer your question anyway. Since the dist can only go in one way you have to drop the oil pump and retime the spindle in fact you can put #1 in any postion you want.

When I put the l-28 in I plugged the oil filter bypass valve in the block and installed an auto meter mechanical oil pressure gauge.Since the bypass is plugged all the oil has to go though the filter,so when the engine is cold the pressure is really high.The reason I like the K&N is the filter body is very thick,extra insurance against the filter blowing off the engine. One other thing I noticed about an 8 or 10 psi differance with the K&N over the phram hp1 same filter you can use on a ford.I also look for the pressure differance between oil changes,when I loose 10 psi at highway speed its time for an oil change,this takes about 4500 miles.

BTW unless you have a mallory dual point laying around I would not suggest buying one for this conversion, they are just too damm expensive.I bought mine in 1990 when it was only 100.00 bux,now they are like 400.00,totally insane prices.I converted to pertronix when I ran into a stange problem burning up the points,and mallory points aint cheap.Turns out I had the two wires that go to the br reversed effectively eliminating the br.It wasnt till I put the pertronix that I figured it out,so i just left the pertronix in.It has paid for it's self at least 2 times over since I installed it.

Flame thrower 1.5 just like yours.My set up is slightly different though,I use a mallory dual point upgraded with the pertronix ignitor.Pertronix upgrade for mallory replaces the mallory breaker plate instead of mounting like regular points.Very clean installation,I have been running this set up for about 4 years.

I use the pertronix and I bypassed the ballast resistor,its still in the car I just ran a jumper wire between the two posts.

Even though you have provided alot of info about your motor,you still left out alot of stuff.I will assume you are using l-26 block and e-88 head right,ok.Problem is there is just no way to accuratly quess what kind of power an engine will make based soley on parts thown into it. Now if you look at what a well tuned Z motor has done in the past,say for example one of those rebello's max power on averge with l-28 crank about 285 and with the ld-28 maybe 300. Remember we are talking about 40+ year old technology. Don't get mad but I think your engine may be putting out somewhere between 175 and 200, and please remember this a very concervative quess, I could be totally wrong. The only way to know for sure is to do some careful tuning and put it on a dyno. If this was my engine,Say if I bought your car from you I would swap out the 260 block for a punched out 280 block then decide what kind of driving you like to do and I think 3.54 gears are too high for a street Z. BTW this is a very good forum don't you think, I am new to it too. Good luck.

I have yet to install a rear bar on my car but I am sure I don't want the kind that attaches to the body of the car, I would prefer the one that mounts to the rear near the mustache bar. And let me say I dont understand what everyone is talking about with respect to the solid diff mount,I have had mine installed for nearly 10 years, installed it and forgot about it. However prior to installing the solid mount I had the diff rebuilt and when I first got it back I put it all together solid mount and all and I did notice alot of noise. I drove it like that for about 4k miles and enough is enough,pulled the diff took it back and had them do it again.Turns out pinion preload setting was wrong and the bearing was fried. After reinstalling the diff no more noise,only a slight click working the clutch in and out quickly,never on the fly. I think the click is backlash on the gears that is normal. Moral of the story, dont take anyone's word for it, put the thing in,try it and judge for yourself.

Oh yeah, you will be busting a few more knuckels, par for the course man, par for the course.

The salvage yards are a great place to get parts really cheap,starters are ok to get but I would stay away from the alternators. If you are sure you want to get a Z then building an engine is a good idea, its like your already driving the car and building another engine for it.Plus it will give you more incentive to buy the car. Since you are building up another engine you wont be in a hurry to get the car back on the road and you can get into more detail that you would otherwise be giving up trying to get the car back on the road. Careful planning will allow you to look at every angle so the finished product will be a more powerful and reliable engine,one day stock motor next day monster car.And when you do it like that you can really see and feel the difference between the two engines. And definatly collect all the parts you can,nuts,bolts everything.Bag and tag everything,even stuff you think is junk because there might be one stupid little nothing part that can cause major delays and needless frustration,because you chucked it. When I did my engine I did it just like that and told everyone at work that the new motor was going in over the weekend and that I would drive the car in on sunday, everybody said no way. I said ok we will see about that, come sunday I was driving the Z in with new motor minus exhaust so they all came out with their jaws on the floor. Trust me it can be done, good Luck..

I had a bad experience with Monza years ago, thin header flange,I had to offset grind the washers to get a good seal.Just make sure the flange thickness is equal to intake manifold thickness. As for the magnaflow it should be called magnacop,I swiched to a dynamax super turbo. I did notice a slight drop in power but the cops don't bother me anymore.

I would also like to know what the story is on those dampers,and a lack of a response to this thread tells me whoever has puchased one is using it for a paper weight because of said install difficulties.

There aint nothin cute about apossum,those things are down right nasty.Had one get into a garbage can and the thing would not leave,I tried tipping it over,kicking it,I even turned a hose on it and just sat there staring at me.So finally i turned the trash can upside down and shook it real good and he fell out and walked away real slow. Yuck

I don't know if you call it a lock washer but there is definatly a washer of some sort that should be there. Seems that right now everyone is having clutch issues so I'm sure you will get a more diffinative answer soon.

I also use turbo head bolts,dealer item.Plan on special order as they never seem to have them in stock.

Yessir

Arizona z-car has a cast aluminum oil pan with Diamond trap doors that I myself have been eyeing for quite awile,but as has been posted changing oil pans is a real pain. If you like to go around corners fast it's cheap insurance from uncovering the oil pick up.I installed an auto meter mechanical oil pressure gauge that is very quick to reveal sudden drops in oil pressure, thats why I will be getting that pan. But really changing the pan even to another stock one is really only slighty more difficult than doing an oil change,I would suggest letting the car sit for a couple of days other wise oil will be dripping on your head every two seconds.Also there seems to be some difference between years so if you scrounge a pan one from a wrecking yard be sure to get the pick up thats go's with the pan,had that problem once. One other thing I forgot to mention,when I rebuilt my motor years ago I removed the oil filter bypass valve in the block and plugged it.All the oil must go through the filter before going to the bearings. The only drawback is that you have to let the engine warm up before revving it other wise you could blow the filter off the block,but if you use a k&n or fram hp1 it wont be a problem.

Probably nothing if the motor is in stock form,but with non stock components such as cams, pistons,and headers you may need different jet needles.Thats were i'm at with my car, it leans out on top so I will be experimenting with the sm needles very soon.

If I were in your position I would save my money and get one of those cool road race oil pans,just a thought.

You can use fuel pressure gauge inside car,only the gauge is in the car,sender unit stays in engine bay. It has some sort of diapham with fuel on one side and non flammable liquid on gauge side,jegs has it.I like mechanical gauges for water temp and oil pressure,if you use the braided steel line on the oil pressure you get instant needle movement with changes in rpm.very cool when you jazz the throttle.

If the vin is correct it missed 240z by 2505 units according to one of my Z books. So let us pry that whoever looks at the car up close has enough Z brains to walk away or low ball the sh**t out of him.

Make sure the flanges are straight, you could try milling them a little.Then when you install them and torque them down dont start the engine, let it sit over night and torque it again before you start it. I also have heard of guys soaking the gaskets in water before installation.Personallly I coat the gaskets with permetex copper spray and let it get tacky before installation.