Tony D

I run a 3" Aluminum. The Boyracer driveshaft looks like a polymer-bonded unit. The two tubes are bonded by vulcanised rubber of various durometers depending on how much torque you want to absorb to save components downstream in the drivetrain. This was the ONLY way Porsche kept the 917's on the road. The axles were constructed like this, and the telescoping and torsional absorption provided by the elastomeric insert was the only thing that could transmit the torque without shattering. Curiously, if that shaft is constructed properly, with enough overlap inside the tubes, should the elastomer fail, the driveshaft just "sags" it can't come out and vault you. Some guys I know drilled holes to allow putting a screw in should it ever delaminates so they can wedge the pieces together and at least limp home from the track, or drive back onto the trailer. Carbon Fiber does not require a driveshaft loop due to its construction. Our times showed improvement going from 2.5" steel to 3" Aluminum. I forget how much, but you could feel the weight difference. We isn't think it would make that much of a difference, but it did!

And now that it has been brought to my attention how to do it, I suggest the following to those noobs who don't appreciate humour, or the WAY someone answers their question.... In stead of whining in the post: 1) While Logged in... 2) By your username on the top right, click the drop down... 3) Click the 'manage ignore prefs'... 4) Add the screen name of the offender to your ignore list... PROBLEM SOLVED FOREVERMORE! Just be wary that I think this may affect searching for previously posted solutions, and you wouldn't want o compromise your moral indignation by accepting advice from such an insensitive and coarse individual!

I gave him the directions in a PM, public ally, and did the same. Ignored & Blocked. Non-Entity now, never to annoy me with questions (no matter how valid) and he will never be burdened with truthful commentary and experience. I don't have time for people who are so thin skinned they can't take an OBVIOUS joke. They always claim to be offended FOR EVERYONE ELSE. I'd suggest if everyone else was offended or curious, they would comment or ask. "Sometimes it IS JUST YOU, and nobody else!" They never want to consider that. This option now allows me the freedom to do hat these whiners always say they want: ignore and never post to one of their stupid threads again. Makes my life easier, I'm all for it. Don't need grief from ungrateful whiners, all to ready to oblige!

I actually converted some cars to this configuration with GM front terminals as well. When possible, I buy dual terminal batteries, and dedicate the front positive terminal as "hot tap" for all future and existing battery power connections. If you get a VW configuration, they run a plastic cover on the recessed top post. A Wal Mart Carburettor Cleaner Aerosol Spraycan Cap with proper cutting makes a nice safety cap, if too cheap to foot for the red and black plastic terminal covers available in most places..

Rated according to actual flow, not wire diameter hole drilling like Rochesters! It's why "jet drills" so commonly used on Holley & Rochester stuff, with somewhat repeatable results can be maddening with Webers & the like. I think there is an admonition in the manual against "drilling he jets" due to the "ream-test-stamp based on flow" procedure.

With all the work you did, have you neglected to go do the basic mechanical tune up specs like retorquing the head gasket and adjusting the valves? If not, your guess is as good as anyone's!

Block your throttle open wide, do a valve adjustment, and check again.

Sad to say, not as effective as you would think. Went in the back to grab a fuse box, only to find it missing! Some bastard jumped the fence to swipe my 69 510 fuse box! Several months later, (after buying a new box for the other car) I go poking around and there sits the fuse box on the cowling! Apparently it didn't fit, so the thieving bastards knowing how hard it is to get one....brought it back! Still doesn't change the fact I would have shot them stealing it, OR bringing it back!

Two things: Your AFR if not pump squirted should remain stable on the main circuit as RPMs rise, if its leaning out it MAY be your fuel pump is not keeping up. WATCH YOUR FUEL PRESSURE! Even my 70RWHP car was experiencing Fuel feed issues! After fixing the regulator and return setup to backpressure regulation, I picked up HP and my AFR's stayed steady under sustained main jet load. One thing I usually point out to most people are that the mains in our 300HP L28 Bonneville car were 135's. You are probably one or two jet sizes large...but make sure you have unchanging fuel pressure at higher RPM's, if it's dropping then so is your effective float level and your jets may need to be even smaller than indicated by this latest test. This is really where a dyno to hold a load point becomes handy!

You do NOT want a smaller line, you want a 0.060" restrict or. The piping losses through a -1 A/N line would result in LESS flow than a restricted larger line. Usually the turbo lines are -3 or -4 A/N and incorporate a restrict or right at the turbo ol feed, thus minimising losses in the line downstream of the restriction.

Personally, I would have retained the smaller Ford A/R housing. I didn't know they had a .48 hot side, I'm kicking myself now for not snagging them from the JY throughout the years. Makes for a nicely increased bottom-end spool. 15~16 psi is available from that combination at 1,700 rpm going WOT and clutch dropping from idle. More like typical supercharged response than typical turbo-supercharged response. What you lose on "ultimate power" really is augmented by hellacious torque from 1,500 on to the can-limited 5,500 rpms. I would say mating that 0.48 hot side to an improved compressor section and a hot Isky Cam designed for flow to 6,500 rpms would reap impressive driveability and power under the curve! Hope you didn't toss that 0.48 A/R housing! (FYI, JeffP tested his 0.63 A/R on the 500RWHP build, and found exhaust backpressure identical to intake pressure at 7,000 rpms during full-load testing, so the myth of the .63 A/R housing "restricting the top end" is just that: a myth!)

"Ibid"!

The 81 components give the identical signal to the MS as an 82/83. To put an 82/83 CAS on your 81 L28ET, drop the distributor drive spindle out the bottom of the engine by removing the oil pump. Install 82/83 drive per FSM Directions. Read the Megasquirt forum here, it all pretty well covers these points.

If you advanced the spark 50 degrees, in essence you changed the tower firing position one lead. There is only 60 degrees between towers, and with normal firing at idle being 10-15deg BTDC, you only actually have 45-50 degrees separation between terminals. If you advanced your timing 50 degrees, you are right in line with then next terminal firing position! (Megasquirt taught me this when I had 50 degrees in some higher rpm low-MAP positions. Car revved up, snap throttle closed and the spark jumped to the next terminal, running terrible coming down! Oh man...)

I thought it was funny as hell, I wasn't aware Z Greek was so easily butthurt. (With that screen name perhaps one assumes too much regarding penetrating satire...) Christ, if I wanted to be sarcastic the little effin' SMILEY and "LOL" wouldn't be appended in the end, together with actually having BEEN sarcastic. I sent a PM: ZGreek, go to the upper right of the screen while logged in. Click on your profile. Click on "manage ignore prefs". PUT MY NAME IN YOUR IGNORE LIST SO I NEVER OFFEND YOUR PANSY SENSITIVITIES EVER AGAIN!!!! There is no excuse for you to write what you did in response to my post. Ignore my content from this point forward. ************************************************ "I thought more people would like to know about this option, since so many whiney noobs take offence to banter or jokes posted by senior contributors that they can glean information from only their own ilk and not risk their delicate sensibilities being offended."

Started with 225,000 on my 76, now more than 300K, same program. That one has a 3.9 and is set up to tow a trailer of some 800#!

This bodes well for me...

More than ease of shooting, the old solvent based cross-linked polyurethane was nearly indestructible! Some stuff I painted. In the 80's still looks like new, no chalking, no flaking, like the day it was shot!

Not you Mike... But most can guess those whom I'm placing on my list!

I was actually asking as a joke, thinking of the wonderful stress-free surfing it wold give me! And I'll be damned if they didn't think of it already! This Site ROCKS! (And this is ammunition for those who whine about tough old codgers beating them up: they can IGNORE us, and just not get our sometimes caustic commentary!)

YOU MEAN IT ACTUALLY EXISTS!!??!! WOOO HOOO YOU ARE A GOD! I am going to go a-ignorin'!!! (And I just checked---I can't believe I have never seen that before! Never hurts to ask the occasional question, eh?) (Edit Update) It works! WOOT! This gives me new hope.

Easiest way for me to lose 160# off my car would be this method. Hell, in AbuDhabi they use trained monkeys now at the camel races... Maybe. Could train a monkey to drive. Nobody would notice while learning in SoCal...

Same as the regular Fairlady Grille.

They are wired the same, unless you get the housings with parking bulb as well... Generally the lenses go on your existing housing, no wiring required.

"So that the guide doesn't work any more!" He was quite clear on that point! LOL