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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

  1. Did you read the last post on JNC's Facebook post?

    I was supposedly voted down last month on the 28th, but according to legislative record vote was supposed to be April 10th.

     

    http://info.sen.ca.gov/cgi-bin/postquery?bill_number=sb_1224&sess=CUR&house=B&site=sen

     

    So much for "recent breaking news"!

     

    Maybe the RBN is the vote sunk it... But the snail pace of casual Internet observers kinds keeps the pot stirred now doesn't it?

  2. There is supposed to be a minimum of three seconds to drop down above 3000... Five sounds like a simple adjustment per FSM instructions.

     

    This is an anti hydrocarbon emissions action. Snap throttle closing belches big gouts of unburned HC out the pipes, loading the catalyst bed which will make it heat up in stop-n-go traffic. It's still used today in the same way, save the computers are faster now so fuel-cut can take some of the load making it less noticable.

  3. It's a ***** to get to the wall he accessed with the drilling, but there is a LOT of casting flash that is in there that has to be removed before worrying about the bridge he removed. And if you have a dental burr and a narrow-nosed pneumatic head...

     

    I don't know the depth of the wall being removed from the photos, and there is the possibility of after cleaning of the head by conventional means, you have the interior ports cleaned via Extrude-Honing.

     

    But Extrude-Honing the water passages in the head would be insane. Nobody would ever go to that extent...

  4. Nissan solved the non linear response curve for our cars where it is critical the pump not run dry (EFI) with a simple LED and capacitance switch. Who cares where the level is REALLY until you are below 1/4 of a tank... And more importantly when you have 40 miles or less left on the tank?

     

    A capacitance switch and LED does the last on very reliably. I've run bad gauges for years and simply refuel when the light comes on! I got a feeling most people do. Set it to three gallons level, and you're more than safe...and on the stock assembly that's an easy tweak away!

  5. Actually the casting bridge / flash he removed was covered in the 24 page "help" thread mentioned

    It can also be reached during head-work / preparation through the larger hex-headed Allen casting plug found at the top of one of the photos. Cleaning it with a burr during prep keeps you from having to do band-aids later on when you don't want to take it all apart again and look for a quick fix on the dyno.

    None of this is new.

  6. I don't want to appear picky, but knowing the guy in charge of the Pinto Recall Campaign in SoCal, I have to say: if you use those J-Bolts and not the Nissan Blunted ones--reverse the orientation so they hook through the strap towards the BACK of the car, and not the front as shown.

     

    In a rear-ender the orientation shown can cause a tear un the fuel tank.

     

    A small difference mechanically, the difference between potentially life altering disfiguration in an accident. Old Andy, I'd suggest you swap your to that orientation as well. I'd hate to see tragedy from a bad, normally survivable accident. If not for you, for those that will have to (or currently do) care for (about) you!

  7. 357 miles with only one eye! Worked two days grinding and cleaning the body on my 71 Fairlady with junk flying everywhere (and me actually wearing a face shield for once!) -- only to have my right eye impaled with a rust chunk from water piping while taking a shower at the end of the day! Driving with no depth perception and a tube of visene dropping in the eye to get home!

    Then "needle in the eye & pneumatic grinder to remove rust ring" from my corneas has me still wearing safety glasses when I shower in older hotels overseas to this day!

  8. Your price point is fantasy. Don't bother asking the guys I mentioned, for what you quote Velasco's might do a nice race prep but you aren't finding a billet crank under $3500 is my best guess.

     

    Volkswagen T1 Billet Strokers were 749 about 20 years ago. Forged counterweighted Berg Cranks were 2500 then...

  9. Really, the trailer was used for suitcases of my passenger and fireworks we bought along the way.

     

    I can't stress how nice it is to have an immaculately clean

    Interior on your z, and never having to put or recover anything from the hatch area.

     

    I literally showed up at a hotel, chained it to a light post, and drove the car in "full sport mode" to the local steakhouse.

     

    There just isn't much real payload capacity in a Z, and driving around former PRO-Rally stages with the hatch loaded sucked! The next year, I showed up-chained the trailer to an oak, and went on to show my son how to use the throttle to position the car in turns! Full suspension travel comes in handy in those instances.

     

    Loading and unloading the back of the car sucks. Even a tent with a couple if sleeping bags is nice to have on a trailer as opposed to inside the car taking up space best kept clear for rear speaker soundwaves...

  10. Galerdi, we think alike!

    I recently picked up my Singapore/Malaysia/Thailand TomTom, and was thinking a PL510 Station Wagon set up to mimic the old Datsun Rally Support Vehicles would make for a popular vehicle through a similar route. RORO to Asia isn't that bad, and from Europe to the states even less! Really a round-the-world trip isn't out of the realm of possibility...

    Actually, the costs of shipping a car RORO from US to Asia is less than the cost of a hire-car for 20-30 days. You could float it down to S'pore, auto tour through Malaysia/Thailand/Cambodia/Laos/Vietnam for a month, then ship it back!

    Next year: Japan!

     

    I'm surprised more don't ship on a RORO from Europe/UK to the States--90 day import/re-export is duty free, and no matter what you pay for the petrol.

     

    Not that I've given it any thought, mind you!

  11. Bad Things Happen? Elaborate?

    We run the L28 crank for minutes at a time at that range. The shorter cranks should easily handle that and higher. What damper are you using?

    Our L20A is just starting to pull at 6K, and pulls to 9500 shift points, and will accommodate much higher rpms if we get the right head/cam to flow up higher.

     

    I could say gear lower to pass through it quicker, or higher to not reach it, but that is a range that should not be an issue. What problems are you having?

  12. Actually, the Harbor Freight Trailer with the 12" wheels tracked arrow straight behind me, and doing radical lane changes at 80+ mph that little bugger didn't even THINK of stepping out of line or hopping. I made an 'emergency lane change' in Fabens Texas from the frontage road onto the freeway at that speed or slightly higher and the little trailer tracked true. Hit a big hole on a dirt road leaving El-Mirage and literally saw a 'grey and black diamond' in my rearview---thing hopped up HIGH slammed back down loaded and kept on going. I have nothing but good things to say about the 4X4 Harbor Freight Trailer. With a Tool Box on the front, and your race tires on the back it's unbeatable as a long distance hauler. I kept a playmate cooler of fruit and sodas between the back strut towers wedged under the strut bar, and a 48 qt cooler on the tongue of the trailer which I would load each morning. Kept me going without having to stop for anything but drainage and fillage.

     

    And yeah, exhaust aspirator... Toyota EGR Gulp Valve for the catalyst works great along with a 10mm baloney-cut tube inserted just behind any catalyst or front resonator/muffler. Have a valve inside the car just in case, and when you open it at highway speed and use that 'invalid apparatus' you took from the hospital visit...

     

    Let's just say, I can't let fly that freely in a urinal for fear of pissfreckles. That thing EXTRACTS it from you I swear! No muss, no fuss, and a perverse satisfaction if Smokey is running your plate just a bit too close. It's TOTALLY worth the pullover and questioning about your 'smoking vehicle with a rancid odor'... B)

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