Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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All it takes is money and an internet account. Or a phone and a call to your Nissan Dealer.
They are pricey....
Switches are universal, the connectors on the subharnesses....notsomuch!
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And note I qualified the statement if UNCATALYZED L-Engines... If you got a cat and it's working hard whilst still puffing black out back, you are well into the 9:1 and lower AFR Range.
If you see black smoke out the tailpipe it isn't "a little out of tune" it's WAY OUT!
And if you're puffing black with a catalyst, it's TERRIBLY out and melting down that expensive brick in the catalyst...
Black Smoke=Terrible Tune.
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My statement was posted to dispel the myth that "all was right if it doesn't show black smoke"---I quantified it for those who never looked at the realities of the situation: you won't get black smoke until you are in the low 10:1 region. That is FAR from "all is ok" territory---to the point that not showing smoke doesn't particularly prove anything in regards to mixture other than you aren't in the 9-10:1 range of AFR's. And most tuners will agree that 11:1 is way rich for most N/A, and in some cases 12:1...
If "I guess" is a statement, it sounded like a question, or were you merely restating the obvious? I was confused by your retort. Your second does nothing to clarify it.
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For the price and hassle, why not? Actually coating it will help with the heat and corrosion if you wrap or blanket later.
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I used the MS IAC output on it and ditched the stock box. I have the same intake in two Fairlady 280Z(X)'s out back.
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SEE THE BOSCH CONNECTION ON THE IDLE AIR CONTROL STEPPER SOLENOID (No BCDD on this baby!)
It's a sedan version, BTW. The Z-Version didn't have the NAPS on it, only things like the Cedric, Leopard, Gloria, etc... The Z's used one without "NAPS" as pollution control isn't sporting enough (even if they did run the same computer!)
It won't plug-n-play on ANY US products, as they don't have the wiring/connector or ECU Connector with the proper pins to operate the IAC. JDM baby! JDM!
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There are two balls in the accelerator pump circuit that ROUTINELY get corroded into the passageway. They are accessible externally by removing a screw cover, and inverting the carburettor. They SHOULD fall out. If these check balls are not in there, you won't squirt as it can't make pressure. Same goes if they are stuck, as they have to lift to let fuel into the chamber. I want to say they are under the screw cover that you remove to put the accelerator nozzle into the carbs. If you pull that cover off, you should be able to pump the carb and the fuel should rise (the ball will lift and let it pass.) If they are stuck, no fuel comes in. If they are missing when you let the throttle arm back up, it sucks air back into the accel pump from the nozzle size and you don't get a pump action as it won't draw it in from the bottom of the float bowl!
This was VERY common.
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I found that the thermal blanket offered by Cool-Tec worked FAR better at keeping heat off adjacent components than the wrapping EVER did. The package sold by MSA was enough for more than the tubular header I was using, the excess would easily cover a second set, or the intake, fuel rails, whatever...
I had a wrapped turbo manifold and it just plain got hot, and was a PITA with all the fibers on it with the accompanying downside as mentioned above (plus it holds water so water coming in through hood vents over the manifold, onto the wrapping as it sat parked....soaked in got wet, mildly warm...flaky flaky flaky rusty mess when it was taken off.
I also wrapped a set of tubular headers. Similar results.
On my last go, I decided to try the blanket instead, and worked HARD to get it right up to the header/manifold flange which I could do, and still access the nuts for retorque.
It was amazing how well the foil blanket reflected heat AWAY from everything else in the engine bay. It was noticeably cooler. I would say my header with the blanket put no more heat into the engine bay than the stock cast iron manifold with it's original heat shielding (and that says A LOT!)
the blanket can be touched when running, something I did not want to do with the wrap. With the foil backing, it seems to hold up better cosmetically than the wrap as well. It's been on my daily driver now for two or three years and still looks great.
ALL THIS BEING SAID: I'd have the manifold coated, THEN put a blanket on it to top it all off. The cost of the blanket is deminimis. Coating has advantages over simple heat transfer. The combination of the two is unbeatable. I would not make the decision between the two, it would be whether I added the blanket to a coated component or not.
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Yes, Alan owns a couple S20 Cars...
He knows of what he speaks on this point.
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Regarding reuse, you can reuse it as many times as you'd like as long as you're 200% sure they haven't been overtorqued, not corroded & very clean (= no dirt).
Same goes for rod bolts or main bolt but for the cost of a set vs. cost of a rebuild, it is cheap insurance to replace them.
I would say, categorically: NO!
Why? As explained previously, when using TORQUE as a quantifier of STRETCH/CLAMPING of a joint, you are inherently inaccurate. The breakdown of the TORQUE you see on your wrench is a DIRECT result of FRICTION on the fastener. Roughly broken down as 75% under-head, 15% Thread, and 10% clamping/stud elongation. You are basically looking that only 10% of the TORQUE you read is actually going to CLAMPING.
If you change the lubricant, you affect both thread and under-head friction. By decreasing this only 5% (each) you result in 20% of the torque you read now being used for stud/fastener elongation/clamping. THAT IS A 100% INCREASE IN CLAMPING FORCE! It IS a fixed-sum calculation, and is why proper lubrication is critical (note ARP spells out the lubricant to use...)
Similarly, a fastener with a nut that is new has specific frictional characteristics. The first time you use it, the threads are DEFORMED. This deformation is referred to as 'burnishing' (at best) and can result in a 2-3% decrease in thread friction. When you consider this fixed-sum equation, a 3% decrease in thread friction results in a 3% increase in clamping force and in effect that is REALLY a 30% increase in elongation or clamping force (13%/10%=1.30 or 30% higher!)
Add to this, I know ALL you guys are having your torque wrenches calibrated every 90 days and are within =/-1% of the reading on the scale (more likely 5% if you are lucky...so when you are that inaccurate added to the other items above...
For this reason ALONE you should not re-use fasteners. The studs have a much higher tensile than the original bolts, and are far more repeatable because IN HEAD FRICTION IS REMOVED FROM THE EQUATION. The ONLY friction you have to deal with is the Nut, Thread on the top side, and under-nut junction. This is CONTROLLABLE. One of the primary reasons heads (especially aluminum ones) suffer from poor gasket clamping is EMBEDMENT, meaning the stock bolts can cut into the heads and loose the pretension over time. Because the ARP uses hardened washers, substantial ones (as do the stock bolts) and a higher "less stretchy" alloy, they clamp and hold better because of higher initial clamping loads. What you eliminate is the variability of the block cast-iron threads being continually burnished, and due to the alloy in the stud it's threads do not deform. By design the NUT threads now deform, and is the ONLY variable in the process when used with the specified lubricant.
Re-use the nuts, introduce variability.
As for catagorically saying you can reuse rod bolts, I'm confident I will never do that. EVER. You do, you're on borrowed time. Insane. The ARP rod bolts are far superior for similar reasons as above. I would never re-use a Nissan Stretch-o-Plastic bolt on a rod...EVER. Good luck if you do.
I digress...
As previously mentioned: GO HERE TO LEARN ABOUT THIS SUBJECT!!!
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Yes, the Nissan answer to DOHC involved gear drives on the LZ Series as Helix Mentions. Remember this head was designed during the engine's CURRENT PRODUCTION RUN as well.
Updating the design with componentry which fits within the envelope provided...
And as Alan mentions, as an owner of a couple of S20 engines, it is to be noted that OSG manufactures this same drive configuration as an UPDATE/RETROFIT to that engine's proven competition record (and known issues.)
When you have an existing design, you work with what you have. I don't see a lot of people making belt-drive conversions for the L-Engine. They make them for the SBC, though.
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00060's...
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I've run 275,000 miles without having to pull the head.
It's all in the instructions.
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Then I guess the 280zx runs richer than 10:1 when you unplug the 02 sensor......which causes black smoke when the car is run.
Yes, that is correct. What are you asking? I think it was pretty clearly stated. What is the confusion?
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Oh, waitaminit, I may have done my exchange rate wrong...
Maybe I should have said "Three nights of ___________"
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S**T, Shanghai is pricy... Shenzhen you'd get 5 whores plus the rest for that. I hope the Shangers ones are lookers.
Shenzhen KTV is around 500RMB, let's not kid ourselves here and try to pull the wool over anybody's eyes. Sure you can get the 300RMB variety but that's a few minutes in any bar for 'free' as well.
Truthfully, the Johnnie Walker is more expensive in the hotel than the girls are... But I can't drink three liters on my own in one night.
At least I don't think I can...
hmmmmmmmmm...
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" thats the reason i need the adaptor plate. it is not unheard of to have and intake adapter plate it is meant to be the bridge between the head and the intake which do not normally fit together exactly."
It is on a Nissan L-Series, same as the non-crossflow Chevy or Ford. They adapt an existing manifold at the carburetor, not the head.
You miss the fact that the Intake AND Exhaust are held in with common studs. If you space one, you space the other.
You wanna do it, do so. It's your engine. Go through the effort and show us photos and let us know how it works.
$75-100? Good Luck with that!
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""ou might be driving into the pits sounding like ice cubes in a blender... "
My ex wife said that aboutBbrian Blake's engine at the MSA Auto-X his first year out there with the home-made ITB's. When we fired the engine in Arizona, and I was revving it in the yard I asked Brian "Did you build this with Forged Pistons?" He said no, and I said..."Oh, you better watch your rpm's, this is gonna pull hard but your pistons won't last long..."
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Dealing with timing gear interfaces which have high-loadings on them for rotor timing, we normally run 0.00015" backlash on them, and 50,000 hours later they still maintain that number.
Given that the standard dyno test at full load for most OEM's consists of 200 hours which they consider equivalent to 100,000 miles I would say "How in the hell do they expect to keep that from getting sloppy FAST. " is a non-starter for a question.
If you read my comments in the other post on how tight they are at room temperature, I would say they depend on thermal growth of the engine to IMPART some 'slop' to get adequate running clearances in the valve train.
That, and the fact that any 'slop' in the timing gear setup even under the worst wear will still give significantly BETTER timing control compared to the BEST chain-drive setup... "Slop" is a matter of degrees. Far to much overhype of wear inducing "Slop"---best to ask the question "Compared to the stock chain-drive setup how much better will this control cam timing than even a new timing chain." Which I would say is probably somewhere on the order of being 4 to 600X more precise ESPECIALLY under deceleration.
Let's make no mistake about it, timing chains are a cost-driven option. They are cheap. Gears don't wear, and don't induce tolerance loss anywhere near what chains do. Chains are also quieter, a consideration in most commercially produced engines.
What is the wear-rate and 'slop inducement' into all those Gear Drive Conversions on Small Block Chevy Lumps sitting by the tens of thousands around the US of A. Why were they introduced? And how often to they run out of tolerance to a point where they need replacement?
Red Herring of a Theoretical Question, IMO.
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I shaved my moustache, that photo is out of date...
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"I don't believe its rich because there is no smoke coming from the tailpipe and the spark plugs are white/tan."
First off, on a non-catalyzed L-Engine in a Z-Car, you will not see ANY "black smoke" out the tailpipe until you are in the low 10:1, high 9:1 AFR's. This observation has been confirmed countless times by dyno runs with WBO2's connected both onboard the car, and with the dyno's Horiba or other 5-gas analyzer/AFR setup. This myth needs to be SLAIN! It's repeated FAR to often to be healthy. As we see in this case it is again confirmed apparently.
Sticking Nozzles: one nozzle stuck even 2mm down in the well can cause the issue. I had this issue with my 260Z for YEARS until I finally had the time to take the damn things off and find the stuck jet. Now every time I use the starter circuit, after it's running I physically verify the nozzles have returned to their original position.
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"I don't believe its rich because there is no smoke coming from the tailpipe and the spark plugs are white/tan."
First off, on a non-catalyzed L-Engine in a Z-Car, you will not see ANY "black smoke" out the tailpipe until you are in the low 10:1, high 9:1 AFR's. This observation has been confirmed countless times by dyno runs with WBO2's connected both onboard the car, and with the dyno's Horiba or other 5-gas analyzer/AFR setup. This myth needs to be SLAIN! It's repeated FAR to often to be healthy. As we see in this case it is again confirmed apparently.
Sticking Nozzles: one nozzle stuck even 2mm down in the well can cause the issue. I had this issue with my 260Z for YEARS until I finally had the time to take the damn things off and find the stuck jet. Now every time I use the starter circuit, after it's running I physically verify the nozzles have returned to their original position.
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I have a DSLR, but don't carry it for work.
If I actually shot film at one of these events...it would be expensive, but the lens selection...oh, yes!
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My solution is in the archives, there is a McFadden-Dale Hardware with the adapter fittings in Phoenix.
Check out the weird manifold
in Nissan L6 Forum
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Yep, that's correct configuration, Hatch Badging, but nothing under the hood!