Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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No, I just need to make my donation and get the old capacity back!
I'm going to China for three days on the way back from Thailand.
So much for getting caught up with Paperwork.
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Rebranded parts is rebranded parts...
You will find National Oil Seal in Moog, CR, etc. boxes all over the world.
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Not to put down anybody, but taking these apart takes a few simple tools (the locksmith killed my bezel!) and with a set of swiss files and some brass sheet stock you can just about MAKE any tumbler you want...and make your locks fit any key you want as well.
it isn't rocket science, but you do have to figure out the tricks to get some of them like the hatch lock and glovebox lock apart to make a 'full set'...
FIRST thing I do is check the keys on any car I have with the glovebox and hatch. If they work those, you are GOLDEN!
All the others are EASILY reworked by a hamfisted moron like me.
Those Hatch and Glovebox locks take a little more finesse (and patience) than I have to recommend or attempt again unless it got a LOT of time (like when I retire...)
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Oh the 3 of 5 rule would make life so much easier for people here in the USA. Proper documentation of two legally obtained vehicles and then keeping one living out of the two. It literally is a Federal Offense to tamper with a VIN! I know someone with an RA22 Celica that has cancerous rust that ate the last two digits of his VIN. Feds would not let him reimport the vehicle...kind of a bummer after he got a TOYOTA replacement panel Sans-VIN and had it all properly repaired.
There are ways to do that kind of thing, but not outside the USA on a vehicle that was already under Federal Scrutiny.
The car constructed in UK and then imported would probably get a VIN assigned. Most states now allow something like that...but it's generally for pre-emissions controlled vehicles. Maddeningly I could not import a Fuel Injected and Catalyzed 2003 Air Cooled Beetle for $6300, but I could spend 2X that much getting a carburetted pre emissions 1966 (without proper seat belts in is, as dont you know they weren't required then!)
I watch automtoive regulations all over the place. Most of my stuff is in Sea Containers. I came to a realization late last year I could pack anything not already in them into maybe one or two more, and basically relocate anywhere in the WORLD for about $27,000 in shipping costs. And some of the places I'm considering...well, those containers would make one hell of a nice house!
Do you make it to Spa in September for the 6 Hours Historic? I've been there the past few years... Plan on it again this year. Maybe I'll switch up and go seek rainy venues in UK to go see old friends and meet some new!
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"Complying with class rules makes you use your brain instead of your wallet."
Not entirely true, those with big wallets and small brains simply buy guys with bigger brains to help them comply...er or cheat and not get caught.
But rules do make you think, either of how to do it or how to cheat and not get caught. So to that use of the brain:
AMEN BRUTHA!
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Harbor Freight has always been right at my front doorstep...
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Is this why my Mod rights are gone also?
They're teaching you about LOSS mister!
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"I was wondering what month I donated in last year!"
I'll get to it, busy in Bangkok right now. Posing for my David Caradine Memorial Tribute photos at the hotel...need a bigger closet!
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Always best to retain a specialist in at least the beginning of these endeavors, soon you will be an old hand and know other tricks simply by experience. Shipping things can be easy, but the paperwork can make it a hassle of incalculable dimensions.
Someone like me with containers of components could 'make' a car with this shell in Kit-Car form. What we on the US Side need to understand is that in the UK the kit car industry is alive and well due to their regulations (or what they once where)--for example, you could buy new body-in-white Mini Cooper Shells without VIN on them. By the '3 of 5 Rule' in the UK, by transferring 3 of 5 of the major component assemblies from one chassis to another, you could legally transfer the VIN from the original vehicle to the new chassis. It keeps craftsmen employed, and in the old days keeping a very old car alive exempted you from a large aspect of punitive road taxes. This kept historic vehicles on the road as they properly should be, as well as allowing a section of the population who could never afford the costs associated with a new vehicle to prolong what they had almost indefinitely. But back to the 3 of 5... By transferring rolling gear, engine, & transmission from your rusted hulk of a 68 Mini to the new no-VIN body-in white (when I looked at this, a new complete chassis was something like 698 or 1698 Sterling. Meaning a straight swap put you from an unsafe rustbucket that otherwise ran fine into a car that at least mechanically was sound enough to past Ministry of Transport Safety Inspection and get a roadworthiness certificate. Due to corrosion issues being in a foggy, salt water atmosphere in most population centres around the UK, this was a matter of vehicular practicality rather than some quasi-shady chop-shop affair.
Oh, were this only possible in the US of A!
In any case, time for me to go to work here...Cheers!
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A 4 or 6" Digital Caliper from Harbor Freight is handy as hell for these instances. And cheap too!
Failing an actual dimension, if you have the rear main seal, you can take it to most bearing houses and they will match the sleeve for the designed diameter. But having actual diameter helps. There is a speedy sleeve (metric) that fits it exactly. Don't forget your Loctite RC608 while you're in there!
Good Luck in your quest!
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I return to LAX this Friday, PM Directions and I'll divert through Burbank to take you up on it.
Either that, or I'm taking that routing through Manila...then I might be back sometime midweek next.
In either case, I'll be in the area and all I need is directions or Thomas Guide Cross Streets and a phone number!
Keep on the nuts, they tend to loosen with the heat cycling. I went to Grade "C" Locknuts to keep them from rattling loose. I put new studs in at headpipe change with liberal coatings of nickel-based anti-seize figuring the locknuts would become part of the stud by the time I ever have a problem with it. I could probably use bolts but it makes putting the headpipe up a royal *****. Studs give you something to at least keep it in place until you get the nuts on an started!
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Yes, it would be eminently better to put 1100 degree heat source directly below the oil pan. That would get most of the heat away from that intake!
I guess just compensate NASA Specification Fluoroelastomer crank and pan gasket sealing strips, along with an oversized oil cooler to reject the heat added to the pan.
Simple blanketing stops heat transfer on the non-crossflow head since the manifold is so small costs of proper shields is low.
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That would be my guess, I recently noticed that I can't make a post in classifieds and before I noticed that I got a 'demotion of status' PM which I assume means exactly what BluDestiny is talking about.
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Depends what market you are in....
In Japan and North America they got the CAS setup which bolts to the front cover and an ECCS computer.
If you have a Euroturbo, they got a standard E12-80 distributor with pneumatic retard / vacuum advance can on it to control spark, and it has the standard adapter on the front cover. They used a standard configuration EFI Box with 29 pins, not the three-connector ECCS Computer as well.
Chances are you got the CAS version in the USA.
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The adapters I saw were (if sectioned) 'H' configured, you put your standard 11mm O-Ring on the inside, and the 14mm O-Ring on the outside, you could do one end, or the other...or both depending on what you had and where you were putting it.
The ones I saw were either nylon or teflon.
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My point was, that by careful reading of harmonized codes for products shipped, something as simple as a semantic shift as mentioned from 'auto parts' to 'glassfibre components for mobile application' may mean the difference between a 50% tariff upon importation, and something more reasonable like 3%.
My examples of the small commercial vehicles was illustrative of the fact it goes on every day by manufacturers who, through simply unbolting a component thereby change the shipped definition of the product from something that gets a confiscatory tariff imposed, to one with little or no tariff.
Such things must rightly be considered before entering the endeavor, as the added costs from governmental revenue collection may drive the costs of the product to a level where it is not commercially viable to ship an otherwise attractively priced commodity to a market where there is some demand.
The gent I spoke of meeting in Belgium, well, there's no other way to describe what he did. From the preceding post, I hope you can understand I didn't condemn the man as some of his dodges were of the 'bolt them on and they are used' legal dodge or "Loophole" similar to removing boxes at the Mexican border so you don't have to pay import taxes or Toyota/Nissan incomplete vehicle shipments to skip on the punitive 25% protectionist tariff. But others like a false invoice are outright lies and can not be condoned. Were he 'in business' his practices would of course be his eventual ruin as governments like to get ya on the taxes. It's how they got Al Capone back in the 30's... I'm sure you have a good chartered accountant tracking your costs and can give a real and true cost of production/cost of sale=profit ratio breakdown when valuating your pieces for import tax evaluation.
I simply wanted to make sure WHAT you call them can GREATLY influence HOW MUCH of a bite (Cumshaw in Chinese, La Mordita in Mexico...) the revenuers assess to the product coming in... If calling them one thing makes for a 100% tariff, and calling them something semantically different but functionally and ethically the same results in 3% good business practice would dictate the latter and not former nomenclature on shipping documents and invoicing.
As I said "I" have to look at this as I'm unfamiliar with taxation levels for composite structures. I don't know that Boeing has lobbied as heavily for protection against foreign competition as our "Big 3" automakers so maybe there aren't any punitive pittfalls to importation of the glassfibre parts you produce other than the already stated shipping penalty because they just take up so much space and therefore generate punitive "DIMWEIGHT" shipping charges.
If I find anything, I will let you know. Anything to assist. I do so lament when articles are available overseas that are so nice, yet the only reason I can see for them not being available in the USA is some legal trap regarding product liability, or outright protectionist restrictions meant for volume production importers misapplied to hurt the individuals on both ends of the sales transaction. You loose a sale, we loose a product. All over meddling in our private transactions. But I digress and will step off my soapbox now.
Cheers!
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Yep, you missed it.
Nobody expects humor when discussing the tax man. Your revenuers are more famous than ours...impetus for the Beatle's "Taxman" after they got the annual bill for only 104% of their gross that prior year.
"Tax your feet and tax the street" or something like that...
I would never MEAN "Lie" of course in some negative connotation. It would merely be a misunderstanding as "lying would be wrong"... The government deserves every cent they demand as they provided such basic and required necessities crucial to the construction of the parts like the ability to envision them, conceive them, the no-interest grant money for prototyping and development as well as monthly stipend for you and yours whilst waiting for the resins to cure and as they are shipped to market. Without their involvement, these parts would never have come to pass and rightfully so then do they deserve to confiscate sales taxes on your end, and lest we forget the VALUABLE AND INCALCUABLE contribution the US Government made to these parts coming to being like free ocean shipping, subsidized patronage programs for construction of historic and otherwise exotic and obsolete vehicles. They DESERVE every single cent, shilling, farthing, pfennig and baht they extract from every dealing in commerce as we all know without them we simply could not exist in our own collective guilds supporting each other in our endeavors.
The tax man, if "lied to" will spring into action like the Spanish Inquisition! Jumping catlike from perches high above and swooping down on the scofflaws deceiving them in vain attempts to retain the ill gotten fruits of their own labor. Rarely expected their two main tactics are stealthy pursuit, copious documentation through chartered accountants of the actual costs of production and a relentless...
Rarely expected the taxman's THREE main tactics are stealthy pursuit, copious documentation through chartered accountants of the actual costs of production, a relentless devotion to detail and...
Rarely expected the taxman's FOUR, FOUR main tactics are stealthy pursuit, copious documentation through chartered accountants of the actual costs of production, a relentless devotion to detail, a clear vision for revenue enhancement for the governmental coffers and a fanatical...
AMONGST the taxman's tactics you will find....
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No
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There is a blue wire that went from the coil back to the ECU. If that is not hooked up, you will get spark, but no pulsing of hte injectors.
Also, if you aren't getting spark, you won't get pulsing of the injectors.
The CAS sends a 5V signal to the ECU for crank position and for spark. The ECU processes this, and sends a 5V pulse to the Ignitor/HEI module to fire the coil on the yellow wire. The function of the HEI is to gate the switching of 12V power(ground) of the coil which allows primary side charging the gating action on the primary side is brought back to the ECU to act as rpm input (every third spark generates an EcU pulse of the injectors - so if the ignitor isn't working you get no pulse). When this gating occurs (flipping the switch on and off) through a transformer action the induced field in the 12V primary windings of hte coil collapse across more windings on the second side of the coil stepping up voltage dramaticaly (35,000 volts+) which is then induced to the iron core of the coil, and goes out the top post, to the DISTRIBUTOR center tower on the cap, through a carbon button to the rotor, across the brass strip on the rotor to jump an air gap to a terminal hooked to a high voltage lead that goes to a spark plug again jumping a smaller air gap, to the ground electrode and through the engine block, ground straps eventually back to the battery negative terminal.
You got two things going on in what you call a distributor. In the bottom under that cover is an optical sensor that does the signalling of the ECU for spark pulses on the three-slot input (120 degree separation), and determines resolution of crank position through the 2 degree slots using trailing and leading waveforms to give 1 degree of resolution. On the top where the cap and rotor are, that is your distributor.
If you read the text in the FSM, it would explain all this. The wiring diagrams are well laid out, and tell you exactly what wire goes to where But I summarized it above. Most people do not wire the four wires from the CAS (they are 5V, so they come from the CAS) to the ECU, they just re-use the wire from the ZXT Donor. Even if that isn't the case, there are diagrams in the FSM which call out these wires and diagram explicitly where they go (what pins on the ECU) Unless someone was TERRIBLY INEPT and went directly to the ECU to eliminate all traces of the characteristic CAS lead into the ECU you should be able to trace from those stubs where the wires have to go.
Low Voltage Section= CAS
High Voltage Section= Distributor.
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Take your studs off and stone the entire surface. I've seen stock manifolds where the rust has made them rough, and old adhered gaskets were 'piled up' and leaked against the block. Tighten in the proper sequence and if necessary use a double gasket and some Red RTV. That drastic measure has stopped the worst leaks...which were eventually traced to debris on the mating surface once they were cleaned and straightened they sealed just fine.
Of this I speak of the manifold to headpipe gasket.
If this is manifold to head...then use a graphoil composite turbo gasket. They seal stock manifolds with considerable warpage without any sealant whatsoever. Flat paper gaskets just don't cut it, and the later graphoil gasket is 'universal' if not somewhat expensive. Then again how many other gaskets have you bought.
Speaking of being in LA, you can go simply BUY graphoil gasket in sheet form. Worst case is you go online to McMaster.com and order some before 9 AM with a credit card. Usually if I do that it will be delivered UPS Ground by 6PM that SAME evening at my place out by Moreno Valley for typical UPS Ground charges...meaning CHEAP!
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L20B, LZ24,SR20, VG...
All been done, and then some more. The driveline is not hard to swap. I'd do it for the price.
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I don't know what scenario would make it "go up" unless your reference was zero.
You clamp it while running, and it will go up to fuel pump internal bypass pressure (about 60) which is why I said place the clamps immediately at time of shutoff. You will lock what pressure is in the lines and prevent it from either bleeding backwards through the pump, or from the FPR depending on where you place the VG.
Don't overthink it, do the test and see what happens. Observe and report. It will come to you as you do it. We can talk all day and some people wont get it. The put the first clamp on and it goes 'flick the switch' OOOOOOOOOOOOOOH!
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3X a Charm:
"The first successful mass-produced EFI vehicle was the VW Type III with the MAP-Based first-generation Bosch Jetronic."
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Similar to you, most people just outright lie to the revenuers to keep the costs low. I met someone in Belgium with this yellow car who was downright proud what he'd gotten by your Bureau of Internal Revenue...
Not that I advocate outright lying. It's like taking parts across the border into Mexico. We continually have people down there ordering parts to be delivered to San Diego. Their managers come up, take them out of the boxes, and then drive them back across the border. Apparently if they aren't in the boxes, they are considered 'used parts' and therefore duty free...
I'm sure coming to America there are similar quirks and loopholes. TABC in Long Beach exists solely as a way to beat the 25% import tariff on light duty commercial vehicles. Seems if you sent the trucks without beds they were 'vehicle, incomplete' and not hit with the 25% tax. Nissan would ship them with the beds detached and had them final assembled at the prep centre.
I ship the cars to Rotterdam most of the time with the engines and transmissions separate or not bolted to the chassis so they come in as 'vehicles incomplete'---or simply parts. Last duty paid was something like 49 Euros...for 4 cars! Old cars nonetheless, but that's a damnsite better than what goes on in the UK.
I should look into this, but generally it's stated valuation on invoicing. The harmonized shipping code would determine duty on a given shipment. It just matters what they are called. "Auto Parts" may have one class of taxes, while "glassfibre structures for mobile application" another.
How do I keep AFR's steady while cruising?
in MegaSquirt
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I agree with Leon. You can see this in any PID controller. Turn it to "manual"---in other words turn off ALL enrichments etc, O2 Feedback and see what happens.
MS should, if you MAP is steady and you have steady load be rock steady on AFR.
Enable ONE correction at a time individually and watch the effect on the tune. Likely it's set up and in Hysteresis meaning it's overcompensating for small swings that dont need compensation.